55 olds trunk light.
#1
55 olds trunk light.
What turns the trunk light on and off when the trunk is raised and lowered, maybe mercury switch? I have the light cover but no light or any wires going to it. Thought I would get it working as I believe it is the last item that came on the car that is not functional. Thanks in advance ...Tedd
#4
Tedd:
I just went out and checked my 54. The wire comes out of the elongated hole on the left side of the trunk and runs down to the taillight harness. I am sure it is a mercury switch but the taillights have to be on for it to work. Now I will admit I did not get in the trunk and pull it down to see if the light goes off but I am sure it does. It really does take a long time to get all the odds and ends working. I had to run a new wire from the neutral safety/backup light switch to get my backup lights to work. I don't think my heater has worked in years. I will probably never need it but I want it to work because it is there.
I just went out and checked my 54. The wire comes out of the elongated hole on the left side of the trunk and runs down to the taillight harness. I am sure it is a mercury switch but the taillights have to be on for it to work. Now I will admit I did not get in the trunk and pull it down to see if the light goes off but I am sure it does. It really does take a long time to get all the odds and ends working. I had to run a new wire from the neutral safety/backup light switch to get my backup lights to work. I don't think my heater has worked in years. I will probably never need it but I want it to work because it is there.
#5
I'll pull the light cover today and see if there is a switch hiding under it. I wonder if a anyone makes a replacement switch or if a regular mercury switch can be adapted. Well let me see if I have one hiding there before looking for parts....Thanks for your replies....Tedd
#6
Tedd,
I've gotten at least 2 to work - yes, it's a mercury switch and it's usually just dirty. Pop the housing apart and clean up the contacts and throw some dielectric grease on there and it will work - obviously the bulb contact as well. Fun to check with a multi meter - hold the leads across the switch and the bulb contact in "continuity" mode and mimic the positition of the unit with trunk open and closed...you'll see it works
Also, the wire goes down the LH hinge and in the rear wheel well there's a plug in lead coming out of the harness for it. Single wire - hot with lights on only as previously said.
People are blown away when they see this working on a car as old as this. Pretty cool
I've gotten at least 2 to work - yes, it's a mercury switch and it's usually just dirty. Pop the housing apart and clean up the contacts and throw some dielectric grease on there and it will work - obviously the bulb contact as well. Fun to check with a multi meter - hold the leads across the switch and the bulb contact in "continuity" mode and mimic the positition of the unit with trunk open and closed...you'll see it works
Also, the wire goes down the LH hinge and in the rear wheel well there's a plug in lead coming out of the harness for it. Single wire - hot with lights on only as previously said.
People are blown away when they see this working on a car as old as this. Pretty cool
#7
Tedd:
I just went out and checked my 54. The wire comes out of the elongated hole on the left side of the trunk and runs down to the taillight harness. I am sure it is a mercury switch but the taillights have to be on for it to work. Now I will admit I did not get in the trunk and pull it down to see if the light goes off but I am sure it does. It really does take a long time to get all the odds and ends working. I had to run a new wire from the neutral safety/backup light switch to get my backup lights to work. I don't think my heater has worked in years. I will probably never need it but I want it to work because it is there.
I just went out and checked my 54. The wire comes out of the elongated hole on the left side of the trunk and runs down to the taillight harness. I am sure it is a mercury switch but the taillights have to be on for it to work. Now I will admit I did not get in the trunk and pull it down to see if the light goes off but I am sure it does. It really does take a long time to get all the odds and ends working. I had to run a new wire from the neutral safety/backup light switch to get my backup lights to work. I don't think my heater has worked in years. I will probably never need it but I want it to work because it is there.
PS ..Granger makes or did make a motor that will work on a stock heater easy swap.
#8
Tedd,
I've gotten at least 2 to work - yes, it's a mercury switch and it's usually just dirty. Pop the housing apart and clean up the contacts and throw some dielectric grease on there and it will work - obviously the bulb contact as well. Fun to check with a multi meter - hold the leads across the switch and the bulb contact in "continuity" mode and mimic the positition of the unit with trunk open and closed...you'll see it works
Also, the wire goes down the LH hinge and in the rear wheel well there's a plug in lead coming out of the harness for it. Single wire - hot with lights on only as previously said.
People are blown away when they see this working on a car as old as this. Pretty cool
I've gotten at least 2 to work - yes, it's a mercury switch and it's usually just dirty. Pop the housing apart and clean up the contacts and throw some dielectric grease on there and it will work - obviously the bulb contact as well. Fun to check with a multi meter - hold the leads across the switch and the bulb contact in "continuity" mode and mimic the positition of the unit with trunk open and closed...you'll see it works
Also, the wire goes down the LH hinge and in the rear wheel well there's a plug in lead coming out of the harness for it. Single wire - hot with lights on only as previously said.
People are blown away when they see this working on a car as old as this. Pretty cool
#9
I can't recall exactly how these open up, if at all. I'd look around the rim of it, where it meets the trunk lid underside, and see if it has two opposing indentations / dimples. If it does, it probably twists off, maybe a little bit of penetrant over night would loosen it up. If no dimples, it still could be held on just by friction, and I'd still try soaking it awhile. Here's an aftermarket light on eBay, looks like it may just push on:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1950s-Ho...9ca9ae&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1950s-Ho...9ca9ae&vxp=mtr
#10
Remember I have only owned the car since July so I have not been through a winter yet. As previously mentioned there are a lot of little things on the car to fix. The next thing looks like is going to be having the treadle vac rebuilt. The power brakes and steering were added to the car about 10 years ago. They came from a parts car that came out of a field. The master cylinder keeps going dry and it is not a leaking wheel cylinder or line. I think the fluid is leaking past the leather seal. Brakes are not something I will take any chances on. I talked with Karps Power Brake Service and think I am going to use them. They will put a stainless sleeve in the cylinder. I would be interested to know if anybody has ever used them. Then I will probably start on the heater.
#11
It's fixed
The cover does just come apart, dimples on the cover match dents on the base. It came apart when I put a oil filter wrench on it and applied more pressure than the water pumps could with out scratching the cover , looks like a little corrosion held it together.Switch was there and tested good, I be a happy camper over that.
Hardest part was stringing a new wire between the two layers of the trunk lid. The insulation keep getting the way. All and all no as bad as I thought it might be, found the old wire behind the carpet just like you guys said and it was and it was still hot when the lights are turned on. I'm surprised that it didn't short out sometime in the past. Two connectors a new bulb and she worked like it did 50 years ago....Thanks for the advise....Tedd
Hardest part was stringing a new wire between the two layers of the trunk lid. The insulation keep getting the way. All and all no as bad as I thought it might be, found the old wire behind the carpet just like you guys said and it was and it was still hot when the lights are turned on. I'm surprised that it didn't short out sometime in the past. Two connectors a new bulb and she worked like it did 50 years ago....Thanks for the advise....Tedd
#13
It's still cold here in New England. Too cold to tackle a serious project, so this tread gave me something to do last weekend that wouldn't involve long periods in a cold garage. Following all your tips, I took apart my trunk light and brought the contents down to the basement. The cover looked like brushed aluminum but actually polished up real nice. Using my jump box, I got to play with the mercury switch and it is cool. The wiring had been hacked up years ago so I had to find a wire that worked off the lights. Of course, my first choice in the trunk was one of the back-up lights so that slowed down the project for about an hour. Anyway, it now works and after I got done with that, I decided to see if I could get the rusted hood light to work and to my surprise, it now works too. Now on to the heater motor.......Frank
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