Vintage Oldsmobiles Curved Dash, Limited Touring, Models 40, 53, 66; Series 60, 70, 90

Under Floor Power Brakes - 1955 Olds

Old October 27th, 2012, 11:03 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 55miketn View Post
OK. Went back and looked at all the pics.. GOOD JOB. Did the top for the master cyl. come with it or did you have to make it? (for the remote fill)
M/cyl cap was part of the assembly - you have to purchase a remote fill master - you can't retrofit a standard reservoir one - came with the master cylinder (RH outlets) which included the cap with barbed brass fittings for the rubber hoses - included the hoses, clamps, and the reservoir.
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 07:04 AM
  #42  
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Parts list

As promised, here is a quick breakdown of the parts used:

From MP Brakes www.mpbrakes.com

VL3702K 2 lb. residual pressure check valve*
VL3719K 10 lb. residual pressure check valve*

* I actually purchased these from ebay in a separate order, but either way you're fine - they're universal

MC1002PZK 1" Bore Aluminum Remote Fill Master Cylinder with Plastic Reservoir and RH outlet ports

BS1007 7" Single Diaphragm Power Booster


From www.SpeedwayMotor.com

Combination Valve with bracket #910-31351

From www.inlinetube.com

SLBFO6 3/16" tube kit with misc. tees and fittings (not 100% necessary, just made things easier) - same pieces are available at NAPA

Disc Brake Conversion:

www.DiscBrakeMike.com


NOTE: There were several 'incidentals' along the way - but this is the core stuff. Everything else is a parts or hardware store away..misc fittings, clips, etc..
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 07:10 AM
  #43  
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Subsequent Pedal Modifications

I noted after driving that the pedal needed to come up a little as it was bottoming out on the floor and therefore not giving my 100% pedal travel (more like 95%).

I removed the assembly and notched it to give it a slight upward pitch (~10 degrees). Photo shows before welding the notch.

Gives a much better pedal response now.

Like I said, this is a learning process for me too.
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Old February 28th, 2013, 05:34 AM
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Road Experiences - Any Advice?

Overall, this conversion has been fantastic, and I will likely do it to each car as I service the brakes.

However, I have noticed that after I've driven for a little while, the brakes feel like they're dragging (or not releasing 100%) - I've read that these residual pressure check valves can be the culprit - does anyone have experiences with this? I have half a mind to just eliminate the check valves, but I'm not sure what the implications might be.

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Old May 12th, 2014, 06:01 PM
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Love the look of what you did to get away from the Treadlevac , did you solve problem with the brakes not releasing by removing the residual pressure valves? Thanks for the article! Larry
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Old May 19th, 2014, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocketowner View Post
Love the look of what you did to get away from the Treadlevac , did you solve problem with the brakes not releasing by removing the residual pressure valves? Thanks for the article! Larry
the release issue was due to the adjustment of the push rod and not the valves
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Old June 10th, 2014, 07:54 PM
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I've been investigating this same project only my '56 has manual brakes. I was thinking I could do a frame mount unit where the original master cylinder sits and the unit I was going to use was one made to add power brakes to a 55-59 chevy pickup. What do you guys think?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/221334589982...84.m1423.l2649
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Old June 12th, 2014, 03:28 PM
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I'm not sure but isn't it facing the wrong direction ( pushing the wrong way) to be able to be used on the Olds?....Tedd
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Old June 12th, 2014, 06:13 PM
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Yes it does! I would have to cut the bracket that came with it and reverse it or make an entirely new bracket, OR actually mount it on the other side of the cross member as-is and make the arm that pushes it extend down instead of up. It would suck to have to fill it with fluid when it's under the floor though. The space between the cross member and the steering gear is only about 13 inches and the whole thing is 12 inches...
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Old June 12th, 2014, 09:53 PM
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I have seen something similar to that used but mounted on the outside of a reinforced air box and S 10 swing arms used rather than the original peddles. You lose the original look (which isn't for me) but you can eliminate the treadle vac by doing this....Tedd
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Old June 13th, 2014, 05:15 AM
  #51  
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Are you talking about what the guy did at www.rocket88.se ?

I really like what Olds Dad did, I'm only balking at the cost. Those parts add up to $500 for just switching out the master. I just feel like the booster and master shouldn't cost $400. I may go that route or just convert to original power brakes. I'd feel safer with a dual resivoir though...

-Eric
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Old August 20th, 2015, 10:05 AM
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What brand master cylinder did you use for your conversion and where did it come from.
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Old January 27th, 2016, 10:40 PM
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Awesome post! Thanks for sharing. Gathering the parts from the list now.
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Old February 9th, 2016, 01:32 PM
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Does anyone know how you would secure the pushrod from the brake booster onto the pedal arm securely? Concidering doing this myself.

Also there is no mention off it but do you have to change from the stock wheels on a 56 if you go down this route?
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Old March 1st, 2016, 01:39 PM
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Haven't been on much lately - here's an update:

I got rid of the entire fabbed assembly for the pedal and reinstalled an OEM hanging pedal assembly with the same master / booster setup

The pushrod thread on the booster is 3/8-24 so I bought a ball joint assembly from McMaster Carr (6058K38) which has a 3/8-24 ball stud and cut the ball stud out of the shank and then used a 3/8-24 coupler (90977A170).

This ball stud fits perfectly into the back of the pedal where the original treadle vac push rod would have fit

It now works perfectly, stops perfectly, and looks 100% original.

Yes, I know you're supposed to have the correct pedal ratio (which is the whole reason I fabbed up the assy to begin with) but you can't argue with results.

I would not hesitate to do this again on another car (less the big ugly fabricated pedal assembly).

And yes, you will have to change the OE wheels to use the discs - if anyone knows a way around this I'd love to know because I want to use the dog dishes but they won't work on the later wheels - the full disc covers will though so...
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Old March 1st, 2016, 01:56 PM
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Awesome, thank you very much for replying to my questions. I don't suppose you have any photos of the new pedal set up with how's it's attached?

Even with this pedal ratio, how does it feel? Nice and firm?

Thanks again for the reply.
Chris.
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Old March 2nd, 2016, 02:10 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Chris289 View Post
Awesome, thank you very much for replying to my questions. I don't suppose you have any photos of the new pedal set up with how's it's attached?

Even with this pedal ratio, how does it feel? Nice and firm?

Thanks again for the reply.
Chris.
Car is in storage but I will get you some pics as soon as I can.

Pedal feels natural and solid - I also talked with a guy who did the same thing with a dual diaphragm 7" booster on a '55 S88...so I guess it will fit, but even with the single it stops great...biggest thing is to make sure you have good vacuum to it - the hose I had had collapsed so I wasn't getting vacuum and it made the brakes horrible - replaced that with a good hose and all is well - I retained the vacuum tank along the frame rail also - not sure if that was necessary, but I figured it couldn't hurt
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Old March 3rd, 2016, 02:26 PM
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The pics would be great thanks! Trying to picture it in my mind but it's not working lol.

Yes, I had planned to keep the vacuum tank regardless, if the engine dies and your going down hill you will still have full braking capacity.

I planned to renew the vacuum line itself when I do the swap. I've never driven the car but all the stories I hear and photos of other peoples cars who the brakes factory power brake set up has just died without warning causing an accident doesn't give much confidence.
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Old September 10th, 2016, 02:51 PM
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good job

Followed your thread and it was very helpful. The only difference is I used a Wilwood master cylinder that has the proportioning valves in the master cylinder and then had 12" flex brake lines made to connect with the brake lines. when it came to the petal assembly I used the original petal and modified it so it looks original ( a lot of cutting and welding ) I don't know if it would have gone as smooth as it did without your help.
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Old September 10th, 2016, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bellymae View Post
Followed your thread and it was very helpful. The only difference is I used a Wilwood master cylinder that has the proportioning valves in the master cylinder and then had 12" flex brake lines made to connect with the brake lines. when it came to the petal assembly I used the original petal and modified it so it looks original ( a lot of cutting and welding ) I don't know if it would have gone as smooth as it did without your help.
Got any pictures to share?
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Old September 11th, 2016, 05:31 AM
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brakes

Originally Posted by a58strod View Post
Got any pictures to share?
Did not take any pictures but car is now torn apart. I will try to get some pictures later in the week and post them .
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Old October 31st, 2016, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Olds Dad View Post
Haven't been on much lately - here's an update:

I got rid of the entire fabbed assembly for the pedal and reinstalled an OEM hanging pedal assembly with the same master / booster setup

The pushrod thread on the booster is 3/8-24 so I bought a ball joint assembly from McMaster Carr (6058K38) which has a 3/8-24 ball stud and cut the ball stud out of the shank and then used a 3/8-24 coupler (90977A170).

This ball stud fits perfectly into the back of the pedal where the original treadle vac push rod would have fit

It now works perfectly, stops perfectly, and looks 100% original.

Yes, I know you're supposed to have the correct pedal ratio (which is the whole reason I fabbed up the assy to begin with) but you can't argue with results.

I would not hesitate to do this again on another car (less the big ugly fabricated pedal assembly).

And yes, you will have to change the OE wheels to use the discs - if anyone knows a way around this I'd love to know because I want to use the dog dishes but they won't work on the later wheels - the full disc covers will though so...
Great conversion man, as I just got a 55 S88 I've been looking for a brake upgrade...
Did you ever get a chance to take pics of the new set up of the pedal assembly.

Thanks
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Old October 31st, 2016, 06:56 AM
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A few pics - hopefully it clarifies.
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Old October 31st, 2016, 06:52 PM
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Hi Olds Dad,

I am new to this forum (at least posting). I have read your thread with great interest. I am considering the same modification for the same reasons as you have done.

I just would like to confirm something. I understand you got rid of the entire pedal assembly you worked on, a great effort, I must say.

To be clear with the current working set up you have now....

You have bolted the 7in single diagram booster and 1in bore master cylinder assembly directly to the toe board, just as the original configuration that Olds did back in the day. This being with a 1:1 pedal ratio with no mechanical advantage. You are using a vacuum reservoir tank along with the booster to augment the need for vacuum. And you are happy with the pedal feel and braking capability.

I hope the above statement is true. I would really like to know your feedback on this, because it would be very useful in my future work.

Thanks in advance.
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Old October 31st, 2016, 10:17 PM
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Thanks for the pics....

Can't wait to start on my car....good winter project.
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Old November 1st, 2016, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ClassicDriverMan View Post
Hi Olds Dad,

I am new to this forum (at least posting). I have read your thread with great interest. I am considering the same modification for the same reasons as you have done.

I just would like to confirm something. I understand you got rid of the entire pedal assembly you worked on, a great effort, I must say.

To be clear with the current working set up you have now....

You have bolted the 7in single diagram booster and 1in bore master cylinder assembly directly to the toe board, just as the original configuration that Olds did back in the day. This being with a 1:1 pedal ratio with no mechanical advantage. You are using a vacuum reservoir tank along with the booster to augment the need for vacuum. And you are happy with the pedal feel and braking capability.

I hope the above statement is true. I would really like to know your feedback on this, because it would be very useful in my future work.

Thanks in advance.
Yes to all your questions - however, on my next one I will use a dual diaphragm 7" booster only because I now know that it will fit - make sure you use a large diameter vacuum line like the OE and that it's a material that will stand the heat down there near the exhaust - my first attempt was a Home Depot tubing which eventually collapsed giving me no vacuum.

I scratched the fabricated pedal assy because, while I had the higher mechanical advantage, I couldn't get it to apply the pedal force "in line" with the booster - and there wasn't a lot of room for adapters, joints, etc - so I went back to the OE pedal and it is great - same pedal effort as you'd expect from the TreadleVac and same stopping power IMO - I'd say the dual diaphragm might eliminate the need to have the aux vacuum reserve but I'm not positive - I will do the same conversion on the next one I get onto the road - I think you'll be happy with it.

I say go for it - cheaper than the TreadleVac and unless you're building a 1000 point concours show car most people will never know the difference.
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Old November 1st, 2016, 07:00 AM
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If you want to do the swap with the duel booster, is this the one you would use:

http://www.mpbrakes.com/7-dual-diaph...er_name=Bs1007

Many thanks,
Chris
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Old November 1st, 2016, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris289 View Post
If you want to do the swap with the duel booster, is this the one you would use:

http://www.mpbrakes.com/7-dual-diaph...er_name=Bs1007

Many thanks,
Chris
That's the one!
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Old November 1st, 2016, 09:42 AM
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Thanks for verifying all of that. Nice job. Looks like a go for me.
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Old November 1st, 2016, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Olds Dad View Post
That's the one!

Cool! My wife asked me what I wanted for xmas this year. Now I have an answer for her!
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Old November 3rd, 2016, 05:57 PM
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a BIG " thank you” olds dad, followed this post, and might be doing this in the future. i had my OE rebuilt, but this looks to be a very good upgrade...being OE is single piston.
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Old March 29th, 2017, 11:02 AM
  #72  
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Ouch, my brain

Okay, so I am ready to get a disc conversion kit for my 55 super 88. There are soooo many threads that I am having trouble deciding what worked best. I need a kit. I need a dual master cylinder....and it wont fit, so it has to be mounted on the firewall and it could maybe be from a corvette? Can someone just come do this already?
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Old March 29th, 2017, 11:21 AM
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You need something like this for a booster setup: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10200444126821656 For the discs I like disc brake mike's setup: http://www.discbrakemike.com/ Also, www.rocket88.se covers brake conversion but you have to translate the site from swedish to english which google will do for you.
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Old October 3rd, 2017, 03:17 AM
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Hi


First, great article, i'm going to follow your guide on my own Olds project. And there is one question that i need an answer for? My Olds has 15" original rims and you has written that they will not fit after doing the disc brake conversion. So can you tell me exactly which rims i'm looking for to replace original rims?
Hope you can help me, I have to have rims shipped half way around the world so they must fit :-)
BR Peter
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Old October 3rd, 2017, 05:29 AM
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brakes

I know that you will need 15" wheels off of a disc brake vehicle, I think a mid 1980's Chevrolet truck will work. I am building a resto mod with my Oldsmobile because it has the Chevrolet engine in it. I used the steel 18" wheels off of a 2014 Camaro on my car and had to use wheel adaptors for them.
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Old October 22nd, 2017, 12:36 PM
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Can someone tell me why the OE wheels cannot be used?
Anyone got a pic of the difference between an OE wheel and the replacement for Discs?

Cheers.
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Old October 22nd, 2017, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Eightbanger View Post
Can someone tell me why the OE wheels cannot be used?
Anyone got a pic of the difference between an OE wheel and the replacement for Discs?

Cheers.
The stock wheels hug the drums on the rear quite tight, they won't clear the calieprs. If you go on the scarebird website they list a disc kit which only includes the wheel end components that does fit the factory wheels.
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Old October 22nd, 2017, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris289 View Post
The stock wheels hug the drums on the rear quite tight, they won't clear the calieprs. If you go on the scarebird website they list a disc kit which only includes the wheel end components that does fit the factory wheels.
Thanks for that mate...I wasn't keen at all looking for another set of wheels plus the extra cost.
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