Dual exhaust Options for 52 S88 Coupe
Dual exhaust Options for 52 S88 Coupe
I want to convert my stock single exhaust into a dual exhaust system. I've read a lot of good info on here, but it's been for muscle cars and I am in need of some opinions on the setup for a 50's cruiser. I was also told by a friend that an x or h pipe setup would be best, but then I read about the drone sound some get in the cab and want to avoid that. I'm looking for an enhancement of the Olds sound...sure a little bolder, but still smooth....I hope someone can decipher what I'm going for....Thanks!
I have duals on my 55,love them. I'm not sure what differences on a 52 you will encounter but on a 55 you gotta get creative to work the left hand exhaust pipe through the X frame (two holes in the frame) then around the brake booster vacuum tank then down the frame rail and wind it through the spring perch and out the back. Make good friends with your muffler guy before you start this project. Would I do this again, you bet, I have Flow-masters and love the sound....Tedd
On account of the X frame that Tedd has mentioned, a crossover pipe will be very hard to engineer. The biggest challenge running the driver side pipe on my 55 was routing it around the steering gear (I have power steering which utilizes the ridiculously huge box) and underneath the drag link. I didn't want to have to do that but it seemed like the only feasible way. I made my pipe myself out of pre-bent sections of pipe you find at auto parts stores (just a 45 degree and a 90 degree). Most of the exhaust shops I went to were not very excited to take on the job, and their quotes reflected it. My "temporary" job just hangs a little low to the ground (just under 4 inches of clearance) but mostly because the front of the car is lowered. you'll have to cap off the passenger side manifold where the crossover pipe meets up to it. I've always wondered about using another driver side manifold there, it looks like it would clear... but I have yet to come across one to try. Good luck
My left hand exhaust is tucked up as close as the right side but the pipe must have 6 or 7 twists and turns,looks like a spastic snake, drove my muffler guy nuts.He did great work though, so it can be done....Tedd
I want to convert my stock single exhaust into a dual exhaust system. I've read a lot of good info on here, but it's been for muscle cars and I am in need of some opinions on the setup for a 50's cruiser. I was also told by a friend that an x or h pipe setup would be best, but then I read about the drone sound some get in the cab and want to avoid that. I'm looking for an enhancement of the Olds sound...sure a little bolder, but still smooth....I hope someone can decipher what I'm going for....Thanks!
Thank you guys for the input...gonna map it out and attempt it myself before I go w/ a shop...sounds like I'll have to get my protractor. I am a bit more focused with the overall sound....hialeah56, I was thinking the dual independent setup may be a bit too much, but I could be wrong and will look into that option.
If you want a sweet nostalgic sound that is period correct, put a set of Smitty's on it. They are also cheap. If you don't have power steering it is not too difficult. I put them on my friends 1950 and on the 54. The 50 had duals on it at some time in it's life so the X-member had already been cut. The 54 has power steering on it and I chose to just go with one Smitty on the right side and split the tailpipe into duals in front of the gas tank. The 50 does sound a little better than the 54. As for the H-pipe, it has always been my opinion that it reduces drone. It did on my 72 Cutlass. It will not work with the X-frame and I would not worry about it.
redoldsman-
I've started looking at the smittys....You said the 50 sounds better than your 54....because the straight pipes are longer? And if it's too much, start to modify as you go? Now, to go for the straight pipes and fine tune if need be or right to an h-pipe? Think I'm leaning towards the straight setup...thanks!
I've started looking at the smittys....You said the 50 sounds better than your 54....because the straight pipes are longer? And if it's too much, start to modify as you go? Now, to go for the straight pipes and fine tune if need be or right to an h-pipe? Think I'm leaning towards the straight setup...thanks!
redoldsman-
I've started looking at the smittys....You said the 50 sounds better than your 54....because the straight pipes are longer? And if it's too much, start to modify as you go? Now, to go for the straight pipes and fine tune if need be or right to an h-pipe? Think I'm leaning towards the straight setup...thanks!
I've started looking at the smittys....You said the 50 sounds better than your 54....because the straight pipes are longer? And if it's too much, start to modify as you go? Now, to go for the straight pipes and fine tune if need be or right to an h-pipe? Think I'm leaning towards the straight setup...thanks!
Sound is like a women, everyone likes something a little different.Smitty's are loud, to loud for me. I like a nice rap at acceleration and a little rumble on deceleration and quiet enough to talk between the two.I would listen to a few cars before I would spring for a set of anything. Just my two cents....Tedd
Redoldsman and Tedd, thank you again....like the women analogy, very true...will take those observations into consideration....I am definitely leaning towards a straight setup, but any opinions on a x-pipe setup?
X pipes work great for cutting drone and I think and increase in torque if I'm not mistaken... However as has been mentioned it is not an option for you. Think of your frame as a great big rectangle. There is a big X right in the middle of that rectangle (hence the term X frame) which is right where you want to put your x pipe. The straight duals are enough of a challenge if you get that done you ought to be proud as you'll be only one of a few.
Peewee, yes it is....I am rebuilding the front suspension now, which lead to me cleaning and painting the frame and under body....so, will get to the exhaust in hopefully a few weeks....Btw, did a bit of carb work, reset the choke and it is running really nice...a couple taps on the gas and it starts right up! It is really a solid car, and can't wait to get it off jacks and back on the road...I'll look into the dual kits, and as I finish each project I'll post some pictures...thank you!
Glad to hear you're working on her. 24"-36" glasspacks sound good or Smittys. Doing the same to mine now that i have it back from Trans. shop $2400.00 later. Sprung a leak but pan was full of metal. Rebuilding starter and P/S leak. Stay in touch.
Ok, others have recommended Smittys. Yikes on the transmission work!
Last night I noticed that the right knee action shock would move up and down with a consistent amount of resistance, and I can hear the fluid, so I believe it is good, but the left one was somewhat stuck, so worked it free a bit w/ WD40 and it moves up and down, but with less resistance than the right and no fluid sound. I'm hoping it just needs to be refilled w/ fluid, but I don't see any sign of leaks...Any thoughts? Thanks!
I don't know much about those, but my thoughts would be to try some kind of fluid first. My plans on mine when they go bad is to fit them with regular shocks, maybe before they go bad. Rebuilts are pricy, from Fusik are $300 if your core is good or $95.00 more. If you want it stock?
Ok, I will try adding fluid first and if I need it rebuilt/reconditioned or a new one, I'll do that...Gonna keep it stock for now and possibly down the road upgrade along w/ a disk brake conversion.
http://scarebird.com/index.php?id=21 This is the link for brakes.
SlimChanse: I've had Smithy mufflers on every Oldsmobile I've owned, and getting ready to take the '94 Cutlass Supreme convertible to my local muffler shop and have them install dual Smithy's from the cataylic converter back (it's a 3.1; that's the way it's done on the 3.4 engine). Reasonable pricing on the internet; you can purchase them in 22", 24", 26 & 28" increments. I THINK I'm going to end up with a sound that resembles an old C***y stovebolt 6 cylinder, which is fine with me. They sound great on both the Silver Bullet and the CCRider; sounded great on Big Red until the idiot Beemer driver turned across me and totaled it..............)*&$)&(%$$#!
PeeWee, yeah, my friend showed me the scarebird site, then said he could machine the brackets for me and then get the rest at a parts store....I have some time before I cross that bridge.
As far as the fluid for the shocks, as Tedd said, I found that ATF is a good option...
Aron, and all the others who've replied, thanks for the input, it seems like Smithys are the way to go...thank you!
Btw, sorry to hear about Big Red....she looks really nice in the pic...I sure hope the beamer didn't get completely smashed...yeah right!
As far as the fluid for the shocks, as Tedd said, I found that ATF is a good option...
Aron, and all the others who've replied, thanks for the input, it seems like Smithys are the way to go...thank you!
Btw, sorry to hear about Big Red....she looks really nice in the pic...I sure hope the beamer didn't get completely smashed...yeah right!
Here is a short video I took after some one had poped a hole in my tank to drain my gas. It shows what my car sound like with true duals and Smitty's.
http://vimeo.com/21238532
I tyried to embed with no luck. here is the link.
http://vimeo.com/21238532
I tyried to embed with no luck. here is the link.
Aron, due to the difference in engine design, I will be surprised if you Cutlass sounds like the old stovebolt Chevies. There was no sweeter sound than and old stovebolt with a split manifold or Fenton headers and a pair of Smitty's. My brother had a 54 with those and it was so sweet. Nothing like the sound when you put it in second gear and let off the gas. Does the term "rack my pipes" ring a bell.
Slim, I have not tried it but I heard from a pretty good source you could heat STP and use it in the shocks. Again, I haven't tried it.
Frmula505, it is good to see you back on here. I haven't seen you in a while. Car sounds sweet.
Slim, I have not tried it but I heard from a pretty good source you could heat STP and use it in the shocks. Again, I haven't tried it.
Frmula505, it is good to see you back on here. I haven't seen you in a while. Car sounds sweet.
Poor Olds has kind of been on the backburners. I have a complete 3 carb setup rebuilt and ready to go. Work has had me all over the world this year. 9 trips and 8 different countries. Not much time for anything.
frmula505, that sounds real nice! Btw, how did you repair the hole in your gas tank?
redoldsman, last night I tried to refill with ATF (it's what I had on hand)...tried to cycle the shock a few times, but it freezes in its top most position...it takes a bit to get free and makes a knock sound. It will then somewhat move down, and I can hear the oil, but then it will become totally free (no resistance as it's moving down), then on the way back up freeze again. I noticed some oil coming from one of the mounting bolts...so possibly it leaked out that gasket there and was driven too long without oil and now the inner mechanisms on the shock are toast? I'm not sure, but want to see if I can get it open and maybe clean, or reposition some parts that may have been messed up by working dry, or maybe it's shot altogether....
Any info would be much appreciated....gonna try and take a closer look tonight, and hope to find a solution other than paying $200 and waiting 4 weeks...I'm going to make a new thread specific to knee action shocks. Thank you again guys...
redoldsman, last night I tried to refill with ATF (it's what I had on hand)...tried to cycle the shock a few times, but it freezes in its top most position...it takes a bit to get free and makes a knock sound. It will then somewhat move down, and I can hear the oil, but then it will become totally free (no resistance as it's moving down), then on the way back up freeze again. I noticed some oil coming from one of the mounting bolts...so possibly it leaked out that gasket there and was driven too long without oil and now the inner mechanisms on the shock are toast? I'm not sure, but want to see if I can get it open and maybe clean, or reposition some parts that may have been messed up by working dry, or maybe it's shot altogether....
Any info would be much appreciated....gonna try and take a closer look tonight, and hope to find a solution other than paying $200 and waiting 4 weeks...I'm going to make a new thread specific to knee action shocks. Thank you again guys...
Slimchanse, I just noticed in Fusick that they state that if shock is frozen or it has any side play they are not rebuildable and a core charge will be assessed. You might be better off looking for for a good used shock, they come up on Ebay from time to time ...Tedd
Slimchanse, I just noticed in Fusick that they state that if shock is frozen or it has any side play they are not rebuildable and a core charge will be assessed. You might be better off looking for for a good used shock, they come up on Ebay from time to time ...Tedd
Tedd, thank you for letting me know. I have checked Ebay a few times, but found some for the 49 Olds and down. I've found that Apple Hydraulics and 5 Points both come highly recommended. I was able to talk to Matt @ 5 Points. Luckily, they are in Santa Ana, Ca right next to me so I can save on shipping and time. 5 Points will be able to get both done for $300 out the door vs $200 each from Apple Hydraulics. Also, No core charge and Matt seems very cool to work with. He is customizing the shock settings and oil to accomodate my 2" drop. Here's a link to their site.
http://www.classicautoshocks.com/#!__home
Last edited by Slimchanse; Dec 6, 2011 at 06:10 PM.
And redoldsman i think i have arount 400,000 miles now LOL. I leave for Mexico Saturday, then Jamacia in january. It's the far east trips that add the miles up.
I took it to a welder. Didn't want to blow things up. Tried repairing one about 25 years ago. It ended up bursting at the seams (lucky i didn't hurt myself).
And redoldsman i think i have arount 400,000 miles now LOL. I leave for Mexico Saturday, then Jamacia in january. It's the far east trips that add the miles up.
And redoldsman i think i have arount 400,000 miles now LOL. I leave for Mexico Saturday, then Jamacia in january. It's the far east trips that add the miles up.


