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On my 55 olds super 88, I can’t seem to get the dash lights to come on. The turn signal arrows on the dash will light up and blink when I turn on the parking lights or use a turns signal. And both arrows will flash from using either signal. And the high beam light comes on when using high beams but no other lights come on and my gauges do work. Anyone got any tips??
Try pulling out the headlight switch and turning the ****. The dash lights work on a rheostat.
what’s rheostat? I think I tried that last night. And I’m almost certain every light bulb can’t be burnt out because that would be very odd and I’ve checked them and they look fine but I could be wrong
On the headlight that doesn't work, is that bulb good? Check to see if you have juice at that bulb. IF not work backwards testing for juice at any junction, probably the floor switch would be my first suspect. They go bad, usually because of their location to moisture and their age. Have you checked your fuses yet? As I remember, all the dash lights work off one fuse, could be wrong on this.
What you really need to buy is an Oldsmobile motor manual. Pictures are worth a million words and will make your life much easier. Glad to help...Tedd
what’s rheostat? I think I tried that last night. And I’m almost certain every light bulb can’t be burnt out because that would be very odd and I’ve checked them and they look fine but I could be wrong
A rheostat operates by increasing or decreasing resistance of the circuit where it is installed. Albeit, the lights (in this example of a light switch) get brighter or dimmer by decreasing or increasing the resistance of the current (amperage). Rheostats have a single variable resistor. As you turn the light switch **** (one way or the other), the resistance increases/decreases one way or the other. One of the best methods to get an old rheostat working is to (1) remove the switch and clean the rheostat; or, (2) you can "try" shooting a good contact cleaner into the light switch while it is still installed in the dash (it "may" work). What happens is the contact of the **** &/or the rheostat (itself) (where the two interface is metal) develop a layer of oxidation. This oxidation (esp. over a very long period of time of disuse) builds to a point where contact between the two surfaces is lost. Purchase a good can of CRC contact cleaner. During a good spraying, rotate the light switch back/forth NUMEROUS times and push/pull the light switch in/out NUMEROUS times - you're attempting to removing the built-up oxidation. Again, w/ the rheostat mounted in the dash this may or may not work, but it's your best bet for an inexpensive attempt before removal of the light switch for cleaning or the replacement of the light switch (assuming wiring is not the issue).
On the headlight that doesn't work, is that bulb good? Check to see if you have juice at that bulb. IF not work backwards testing for juice at any junction, probably the floor switch would be my first suspect. They go bad, usually because of their location to moisture and their age. Have you checked your fuses yet? As I remember, all the dash lights work off one fuse, could be wrong on this.
What you really need to buy is an Oldsmobile motor manual. Pictures are worth a million words and will make your life much easier. Glad to help...Tedd
Sorta/Kinda throwing me a curve on this one? The OP has an issue with the dash lights.
EDIT: Ding, ding, ding, ding....I see where you're heading now.
On the headlight that doesn't work, is that bulb good? Check to see if you have juice at that bulb. IF not work backwards testing for juice at any junction, probably the floor switch would be my first suspect. They go bad, usually because of their location to moisture and their age. Have you checked your fuses yet? As I remember, all the dash lights work off one fuse, could be wrong on this.
What you really need to buy is an Oldsmobile motor manual. Pictures are worth a million words and will make your life much easier. Glad to help...Tedd
my headlights do work and high beams. It’s my left front turn signal that’s very dim and turns on both turn signals. The right front turn signal works nice and bright on its own. My fuses look good. The floor high beam switch could cause my dash lights not to work? I have a cheap amp meter like for testing a battery but I’m not sure what to set it to for checking wires like that. Do you?
You actually own a real AMP meter? I sound alarmed/surprised because many folks don't own an AMP meter, most folks will own a VOM (Volt, Ohm Meter) or a DMM (Digital Multi Meter). In both the case of a VOM &/or DMM almost no VOM &/or DMM will measure AMP (amperage). If you do own an AMP meter they often (not always, but often depending on their age) read amperage only. Newer models can/will read Volt, Ohm and Amperage, but they're not often owned by many folks. The best/fastest method to check circuitry is using a circuit test light. You can most certainly use a VOM &/or DMM, as well.
You actually own a real AMP meter? I sound alarmed/surprised because many folks don't own an AMP meter, most folks will own a VOM (Volt, Ohm Meter) or a DMM (Digital Multi Meter). In both the case of a VOM &/or DMM almost no VOM &/or DMM will measure AMP (amperage). If you do own an AMP meter they often (not always, but often depending on their age) read amperage only. Newer models can/will read Volt, Ohm and Amperage, but they're not often owned by many folks. The best/fastest method to check circuitry is using a circuit test light. You can most certainly use a VOM &/or DMM, as well.
oh no mines volts and ohms just a cheap one from harbor freight. That’s how little I know about it. What setting would I turn it to for checking circuitry?
As Tedd noted, the fuse for the dash lights (and the clock light and the ash tray lights) is on the headlight switch. As Norm noted, the rheostat on the headlight switch is likely dirty or bent. As for the turn signals, the correct flasher is Tung Sol P273D. NAPA 550 will make both arrows flash at the same time.
Last edited by ignachuck; Dec 14, 2023 at 11:18 AM.
oh no mines volts and ohms just a cheap one from harbor freight. That’s how little I know about it. What setting would I turn it to for checking circuitry?
Spend some time learning three key elements of an electric circuit, Ohms is a measure of resistance, Amps is a measure of current (difference in electron potential - those mysterious things which actually move the electricity) & Volts (likened to amount of pressure which moves those mysterious electrons). Finally, you need a clear understanding of “continuity”. Rather simple that one since the word itself demonstrates you need a continual path from point A to point B, e.g, continuous (continual) continuity.
that makes sense! Any how, I’m not sure about the rheostat, is it supposed to dim the lights on the dash? So today I pulled out my headlight switch and started checking for circuitry and most of the wires on it had some. Anyways I still don’t know the exact issue but I ended up putting a small jumper wire from the blue to the gray and just like that all dash lights work now. Does anyone know what the problem could be, if that’s what I had to do to get them working? Is it the rheostat? I did see a prong in the headlight switch that looked similar to points and I filed it because it looked a bit corroded.
Spend some time learning three key elements of an electric circuit, Ohms is a measure of resistance, Amps is a measure of current (difference in electron potential - those mysterious things which actually move the electricity) & Volts (likened to amount of pressure which moves those mysterious electrons). Finally, you need a clear understanding of “continuity”. Rather simple that one since the word itself demonstrates you need a continual path from point A to point B, e.g, continuous (continual) continuity.
that’s a good way to see it! I’ll save this post for when I’m working on electrical. I still don’t know how to use the meter I have tho. Except to test my battery
As Tedd noted, the fuse for the dash lights (and the clock light and the ash tray lights) is on the headlight switch. As Norm noted, the rheostat on the headlight switch is likely dirty or bent. As for the turn signals, the correct flasher is Tung Sol P273D. NAPA 550 will make both arrows flash at the same time.
oh yes I have that. It’s a connection where my turn signals switch is on the steering column that’s making them both flash on the left side, because the right is fine.
