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The answer to his problem is explained within one or more of the videos that I linked if he would be bothered to watch them. The test procedures are there too. The old saying comes to mind - "you can lead a horse to water but you can't make them drink".
what if it’s not a pressure issue? Then what? Clutches?
Here's some info on pressure testing a single coupling Hydra-Matic.
From Motor's Auto Repair Manual.
You use air pressure from a blow gun.
A test like this should determine that the trans itself is good and the problem is confined to the control valve.
Last edited by Charlie Jones; May 23, 2024 at 09:40 AM.
Here's some info on pressure testing a single coupling Hydra-Matic.
From Motor's Auto Repair Manual.
You use air pressure from a blow gun.
A test like this should determine that the trans itself is good and the problem is confined to the control valve.
I thought I’m just supposed to hook up the gauge to the port?
I have the manual but thank you. I’m gonna watch the 4 part serious on YouTube tonight and see what I get from it. But yes I have the book I’m just more of a visual learner than reader
I have the manual but thank you. I’m gonna watch the 4 part serious on YouTube tonight and see what I get from it. But yes I have the book I’m just more of a visual learner than reader
Good for you to finally block out some time and watch the video series. You'll learn tons. Don't rush ahead, but you'll enjoy Part 4 which explains how each part functions. You'll dig it.
This is the port you would need to put a gauge on, not sure of the thread pitch but its most likely NPT. You would be able to find out quickly if you have enough pressure to release the band and apply the clutches for the fourth gear shift.
This is the port you would need to put a gauge on, not sure of the thread pitch but its most likely NPT. You would be able to find out quickly if you have enough pressure to release the band and apply the clutches for the fourth gear shift.
yeah I saw that on my spare old trans I’m just wondering if I’ll be able to get a gauge on the one that’s actually in my car with that tight space I have to work. Does port go down into to all the oil lines or just to the whole inside space of the trans ?
yeah I saw that on my spare old trans I’m just wondering if I’ll be able to get a gauge on the one that’s actually in my car with that tight space I have to work. Does port go down into to all the oil lines or just to the whole inside space of the trans ?
When working w/ threaded applications (e.g. piping, in particular). NPT = National Pipe Thread, one of the most commonly used American threaded applications.
When working w/ threaded applications (e.g. piping, in particular). NPT = National Pipe Thread, one of the most commonly used American threaded applications.
thank you. So is the port on the trans linked to all the tubes in the trans?
So is the port on the trans linked to all the tubes in the trans?
I don't know the answer to your question. I've watched John Kelly's videos probably two or three times. I have no need to study every single part of this transmission. I removed one and helped a guy do a rebuild once many years ago - IIRC, it was in a Nash or Nash Rambler - too many years have passed to remember. In John Kelly's video he identifies the several tubes - there are ~6 or 7. I couldn't tell you where each is located; but, reviewing the diagram & text from the Motor's Auto Repair Manual Charlie Jones provided, you can see the benefits of performing these tests on the functioning of each device. The tubes are most likely all connected via several passages since that's how the coupling/de-coupling takes place. From the sounds of it (pun intended) you should be able to hear the device function as air pressure is applied.
When working w/ threaded applications (e.g. piping, in particular). NPT = National Pipe Thread, one of the most commonly used American threaded applications.
Wrong !
NPT is National Pipe Taper
NPS is National Pipe Straight
I don't know the answer to your question. I've watched John Kelly's videos probably two or three times. I have no need to study every single part of this transmission. I removed one and helped a guy do a rebuild once many years ago - IIRC, it was in a Nash or Nash Rambler - too many years have passed to remember. In John Kelly's video he identifies the several tubes - there are ~6 or 7. I couldn't tell you where each is located; but, reviewing the diagram & text from the Motor's Auto Repair Manual Charlie Jones provided, you can see the benefits of performing these tests on the functioning of each device. The tubes are most likely all connected via several passages since that's how the coupling/de-coupling takes place. From the sounds of it (pun intended) you should be able to hear the device function as air pressure is applied.
I watched the 4 part serious and still confused on the next step for my specific transmission. I guess I can check the manual and find all oil lines involved with 4th and clean them. If there’s water in the trans could that stop 4th gear by making the oil to thin and and weak for pressure? My fluid on dipstick just always looks so thin and almost clear with a tint of red
I watched the 4 part serious and still confused on the next step for my specific transmission. I guess I can check the manual and find all oil lines involved with 4th and clean them. If there’s water in the trans could that stop 4th gear by making the oil to thin and and weak for pressure? My fluid on dipstick just always looks so thin and almost clear with a tint of red
I bought the gauge to check pressure in the trans and got the nut out but there no F&$@$) way you can get that gauge hooked up to that port in that small space! I knew it was gonna be difficult if even possible, I had to take the side pan just to get the port bolt back on so there’s no way I can get that gauge hooked up put the side pan on put in more fluid, run the trans check gauge then do it all again just to get the gauge off. Unless one of you has a better plan and way to get that gauge off and on. I spent an hour trying to get the regular plug back in to the threads until I gave in and took the pan off
It might help if you gave a location. One thing you might do is call Fatsco who is one of the biggest suppliers of parts for these old transmissions. They could possibly recommend one of their customers.
It might help if you gave a location. One thing you might do is call Fatsco who is one of the biggest suppliers of parts for these old transmissions. They could possibly recommend one of their customers.
im in Santa Fe New Mexico and I’ve tried here and Albuquerque
When I had my 54, I knew this was going to become a big problem. The guy that rebuilt the hydra-matic in my car was in his last 70's (my age now) and was retired but did a few transmissions in his shop at home. I had to have somebody else R&R it. He did a great job but passed away several years ago. Freight is another problem. These things are very heavy and if you have to ship it to somebody it is going to be expensive. I think there is a place in Fort Worth that works on them but I would have to research them.
When I had my 54, I knew this was going to become a big problem. The guy that rebuilt the hydra-matic in my car was in his last 70's (my age now) and was retired but did a few transmissions in his shop at home. I had to have somebody else R&R it. He did a great job but passed away several years ago. Freight is another problem. These things are very heavy and if you have to ship it to somebody it is going to be expensive. I think there is a place in Fort Worth that works on them but I would have to research them.
well I’m not a rich old retired man I’m a young man with bills to pay but yeah if you could get me the man in Fort Worth’s info I’d give him a call at least. I can’t wait til 30 years from now I’m retired and have project cars I can put money into the right and have somebody rebuild them instead of me like my carb or generator or etc….. but I guess a man eans that over a lifetime of work with an actual career not just a job
Can you locate a rebuild kit? Rebuild it yourself? There isn't any magic inside an automatic. Once you pull one apart you will see what Im talking about.
If you pay attention to tolerance detail especially on the steels/frictions stack up, work slow and keep the rebuild clean, jump in and go for it.
Do a little homework before you shrug off this idea. YouTube rebuilding a TH350 or TH400 just to give a visual of how easy a trans comes apart and goes back together.
Option 2, what modern trans could be adapted to fit behind that block? Upgrading would be all around better I'd think.
Ill bet someone makes an adapter. Not sure whats involved as I'm not familiar with a 54 engine block.
Last option yank the engine & trans and retro fit a modern drive train. Sounds aggressive but the upgrade will allow for a full section of modern replacement service parts for now and into the the future. No more exotic hard to find parts.
I know there has to be kits available to bolt an Olds 330-455 into a 54 along with trans of choice.
After some study of the operation, if you are getting a 1-2 shift but not a 3-4 shift when in Drive it appears the issue has something to do with not applying the front clutch. Since the governor pressure is sufficient to shift the 2-3 valve but not enough to shift the 3-4 valve it could be either and issue with the 3-4 shift valve, possibly stuck. Or there is an issue with the governor, not producing sufficient pressure to shift the 3-4 valve.
Two things to look at, first is the 3-4 shift valve free in the bore of the inner valve body? Second, did you disassemble the governor? There is a fixture, J-4731, for centering the governor when you tighten the bolts. This could possibly be the cause of insufficient pressure to shift the 3-4 valve.
My thoughts,
Wally
[QUOTE=Wally;1589211]After some study of the operation, if you are getting a 1-2 shift but not a 3-4 shift when in Drive it appears the issue has something to do with not applying the front clutch. Since the governor pressure is sufficient to shift the 2-3 valve but not enough to shift the 3-4 valve it could be either and issue with the 3-4 shift valve, possibly stuck. Or there is an issue with the governor, not producing sufficient pressure to shift the 3-4 valve.
Two things to look at, first is the 3-4 shift valve free in the bore of the inner valve body? Second, did you disassemble the governor? There is a fixture, J-4731, for centering the governor when you tighten the bolts. This could possibly be the cause of insufficient pressure to shift the 3-4 valve.
My thoughts,
Wally[/QUOTE
i do not have the j-4731 tool but is it possilble there’s little debris in those pathways that push fluid into the back of the valv body?
After some study of the operation, if you are getting a 1-2 shift but not a 3-4 shift when in Drive it appears the issue has something to do with not applying the front clutch. Since the governor pressure is sufficient to shift the 2-3 valve but not enough to shift the 3-4 valve it could be either and issue with the 3-4 shift valve, possibly stuck. Or there is an issue with the governor, not producing sufficient pressure to shift the 3-4 valve.
Two things to look at, first is the 3-4 shift valve free in the bore of the inner valve body? Second, did you disassemble the governor? There is a fixture, J-4731, for centering the governor when you tighten the bolts. This could possibly be the cause of insufficient pressure to shift the 3-4 valve.
My thoughts,
Wally[/QUOTE
i do not have the j-4731 tool but is it possilble there’s little debris in those pathways that push fluid into the back of the valv body?
and yes I’ve taken apart every piece of that valve body and cleaned it spotless and made sure every piece flows in and out smoothly
After some study of the operation, if you are getting a 1-2 shift but not a 3-4 shift when in Drive it appears the issue has something to do with not applying the front clutch. Since the governor pressure is sufficient to shift the 2-3 valve but not enough to shift the 3-4 valve it could be either and issue with the 3-4 shift valve, possibly stuck. Or there is an issue with the governor, not producing sufficient pressure to shift the 3-4 valve.
Two things to look at, first is the 3-4 shift valve free in the bore of the inner valve body? Second, did you disassemble the governor? There is a fixture, J-4731, for centering the governor when you tighten the bolts. This could possibly be the cause of insufficient pressure to shift the 3-4 valve.
My thoughts,
Wally[/QUOTE
i do not have the j-4731 tool but is it possilble there’s little debris in those pathways that push fluid into the back of the valv body?
