Vintage Oldsmobiles Curved Dash, Limited Touring, Models 40, 53, 66; Series 60, 70, 90

1953 Super 88 - Name That Part

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Old September 19th, 2012 | 11:34 AM
  #1  
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1953 Super 88 - Name That Part

I know my dad had parts and service manuals for this car but I haven't yet run across them ... so ... I am hoping someone can excuse my ignorance and tell me the name of the steering component and bushing in the attached photos. It (the rubber bushing) obviously needs replaced.

Also, is this something a layman with basic tools and no lift can change out himself or is this best left to a professional?

Thanks.
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1953 Olds Steering - 1.jpg (67.1 KB, 51 views)
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1953 Olds Steering - 2.jpg (82.5 KB, 53 views)
Old September 19th, 2012 | 12:21 PM
  #2  
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That is an idler arm and you should be able to change it. It you do not have the fork to separate it from the drag link you probably should take it to somebody since the cost to change it will probably be less than the cost of the fork.
Old September 19th, 2012 | 02:59 PM
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Don't take a pickle fork to that idler arm!

To take it loose from the drag link, pull the cotter pin at the end of the drag link out and back off the plug in the end of the link to open it up and slide out the idler arm. When you tighten the plug back up, tighten it snug and back off ¼ to ¾ of a turn. Always replace the cotter pin with a new one.

Also the pivot end of the idler arm has a bushing and can be disassembled and adjusted. I haven't done mine, but I'm sure someone on here has and can give you better advice than I can. I suggest you hold off on that project until you find those manuals.
Old September 19th, 2012 | 03:07 PM
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Thanks for ID'ing the part and for the advice guys.

Highwayman, since you are in Colorado can you recommend a good repair shop in the greater Denver area that might specialize (or at least be knowledgeable) in classic cars? I think my level of experience warrants having this work done by a competent shop.
Old September 19th, 2012 | 04:31 PM
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I've done my own thing for so long I don't have anyone I can recommend. But I'm going to be looking too because I'm getting to where I can't do some things anymore. I want to go check out another member here, CQR, sometime. From the info he has on the Olds map, he has a place in Morrison.


https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/members/cqr.html


http://www.morrisoncarworks.com/
Old September 21st, 2012 | 11:12 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Highwayman
I've done my own thing for so long I don't have anyone I can recommend. But I'm going to be looking too because I'm getting to where I can't do some things anymore. I want to go check out another member here, CQR, sometime. From the info he has on the Olds map, he has a place in Morrison.


https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/members/cqr.html


http://www.morrisoncarworks.com/

Great, thanks for the info Highwayman.

I don't know that there is anything wrong with the idler arm itself but the rubber bushing is dried out and cracked. Can anyone tell me what this bushing does? Is it just a grease cup or is it load-bearing? (see pic below)
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1953 Olds Idler Arm - 3.jpg (82.1 KB, 11 views)
Old September 21st, 2012 | 01:00 PM
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Wink Not "load-bearing" critical

Originally Posted by CO53Super88
Great, thanks for the info Highwayman.

I don't know that there is anything wrong with the idler arm itself but the rubber bushing is dried out and cracked. Can anyone tell me what this bushing does? Is it just a grease cup or is it load-bearing? (see pic below)
The Olds parts book calls it "Seal, Idler Arm Support Bushing". The group number is 6.898; the part number is 411231. It fits 1939-1955. It's to keep the grease in and the crud out. It is not a difficult job to replace it with the correct tools. There is a specified dimension for the distance from the upper face of the arm to the shoulder on the support for the 1955 model (23/32"). I don't have the shop manual for the 1953 model. The 1955 shop manual explains it well and does not mention any specialized tools. As the arm and support are the same in 1953 as 1955, the dimension may be the same, however the bushings are different, so it may also be different.
Old September 21st, 2012 | 04:20 PM
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That would be great if all that was needed was a seal. My question would be where do you find one? I took a look in my Kanter catalog and didn't see a seal but did see a complete idler are for $94.
Old September 21st, 2012 | 05:05 PM
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My mechanical skills are limited, mind you i converted my vacum wipers to electric myself but when in comes to steering i leave it to my mechanic who charges very reasonable rates, my mechanic changed the idler arm and tie rod ends on my 53 , took less than a hour he also did a wheel allighnment after chaging the tie rod ends so not worth trying to do myself, i would just replace the whole idler arm, parts for these cars are relatively in expensive when compared to newer cars, the thing is find a mechanic you can trust and stick with them, i have 2 mechanics 1 is for my high performance stuff and the other for my stock stuff, i have 4 cars a 55 olds a 53 olds both stock and a 68 convertible mustang with a 427 ford racing motor and a 66 cadillac with a 383 chev stroker pics below, so its very important to find someone you can trust and work out a special rate for being loyal , thats what ive done and in some cases its just not worth doing yourself if you don't have the correct tools and patients.
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Old September 21st, 2012 | 05:43 PM
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Thanks for the all the valuable info guys. Yeah, I've been web searching all day for the seal and I can't find it except as part of the whole idler arm assembly. The steering has about 3" of play to either side of center - does this seem reasonable? It's not tight like my 5-year old truck but I really don't expect it to be. I don't have any trouble driving it. But I agree, if the whole idler arm or any other components need to be replaced I'll take it to a garage.
Old September 21st, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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If you want to check for slop in the steering linkage, it's easy enough to do at home. For the idler arm just grab hold of the drag link and push it up and down while watching the end on the frame where that seal is. For the tie rod joints and drag link, lift one wheel off the ground and attempt to turn it side to side. Watch the joints for slop. Then lower the wheel and repeat on the other side. For the gear box have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the pitman arm to see if there is any slack.
Old September 21st, 2012 | 09:20 PM
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Unhappy Probably hard to find

Originally Posted by Highwayman
That would be great if all that was needed was a seal. My question would be where do you find one? I took a look in my Kanter catalog and didn't see a seal but did see a complete idler are for $94.
You're probably right. These small parts are getting hard to find individually. Fusick has the idler arm support bracket kit for $69.50 + ship. They have the entire idler arm assembly for $89 + ship. Rock Auto has the pitman shaft seal (only) for $5+, but not the idler seal. Here's an update from my previous post. The Olds parts book issued in 1972 shows that the same idler seal was used through the 1960 model year. In those days the cost was US$0.46 (I probably should have bought some!) Another possibility might be if there is an old front end (only) shop nearby. They might still have some lying around.
P.S. That stuff downunder looks GREAT!
Old September 22nd, 2012 | 06:35 AM
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highwayman: thanks for that info - I will do that this weekend and see what I find.

ozzie: thanks as well - good advice on the front end shop. And thanks for the research.
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