1953 Super 88 - Name That Part
#1
1953 Super 88 - Name That Part
I know my dad had parts and service manuals for this car but I haven't yet run across them ... so ... I am hoping someone can excuse my ignorance and tell me the name of the steering component and bushing in the attached photos. It (the rubber bushing) obviously needs replaced.
Also, is this something a layman with basic tools and no lift can change out himself or is this best left to a professional?
Thanks.
Also, is this something a layman with basic tools and no lift can change out himself or is this best left to a professional?
Thanks.
#2
That is an idler arm and you should be able to change it. It you do not have the fork to separate it from the drag link you probably should take it to somebody since the cost to change it will probably be less than the cost of the fork.
#3
Don't take a pickle fork to that idler arm!
To take it loose from the drag link, pull the cotter pin at the end of the drag link out and back off the plug in the end of the link to open it up and slide out the idler arm. When you tighten the plug back up, tighten it snug and back off ¼ to ¾ of a turn. Always replace the cotter pin with a new one.
Also the pivot end of the idler arm has a bushing and can be disassembled and adjusted. I haven't done mine, but I'm sure someone on here has and can give you better advice than I can. I suggest you hold off on that project until you find those manuals.
To take it loose from the drag link, pull the cotter pin at the end of the drag link out and back off the plug in the end of the link to open it up and slide out the idler arm. When you tighten the plug back up, tighten it snug and back off ¼ to ¾ of a turn. Always replace the cotter pin with a new one.
Also the pivot end of the idler arm has a bushing and can be disassembled and adjusted. I haven't done mine, but I'm sure someone on here has and can give you better advice than I can. I suggest you hold off on that project until you find those manuals.
#4
Thanks for ID'ing the part and for the advice guys.
Highwayman, since you are in Colorado can you recommend a good repair shop in the greater Denver area that might specialize (or at least be knowledgeable) in classic cars? I think my level of experience warrants having this work done by a competent shop.
Highwayman, since you are in Colorado can you recommend a good repair shop in the greater Denver area that might specialize (or at least be knowledgeable) in classic cars? I think my level of experience warrants having this work done by a competent shop.
#5
I've done my own thing for so long I don't have anyone I can recommend. But I'm going to be looking too because I'm getting to where I can't do some things anymore. I want to go check out another member here, CQR, sometime. From the info he has on the Olds map, he has a place in Morrison.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/members/cqr.html
http://www.morrisoncarworks.com/
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/members/cqr.html
http://www.morrisoncarworks.com/
#6
I've done my own thing for so long I don't have anyone I can recommend. But I'm going to be looking too because I'm getting to where I can't do some things anymore. I want to go check out another member here, CQR, sometime. From the info he has on the Olds map, he has a place in Morrison.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/members/cqr.html
http://www.morrisoncarworks.com/
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/members/cqr.html
http://www.morrisoncarworks.com/
Great, thanks for the info Highwayman.
I don't know that there is anything wrong with the idler arm itself but the rubber bushing is dried out and cracked. Can anyone tell me what this bushing does? Is it just a grease cup or is it load-bearing? (see pic below)
#7
Not "load-bearing" critical
The Olds parts book calls it "Seal, Idler Arm Support Bushing". The group number is 6.898; the part number is 411231. It fits 1939-1955. It's to keep the grease in and the crud out. It is not a difficult job to replace it with the correct tools. There is a specified dimension for the distance from the upper face of the arm to the shoulder on the support for the 1955 model (23/32"). I don't have the shop manual for the 1953 model. The 1955 shop manual explains it well and does not mention any specialized tools. As the arm and support are the same in 1953 as 1955, the dimension may be the same, however the bushings are different, so it may also be different.
#9
My mechanical skills are limited, mind you i converted my vacum wipers to electric myself but when in comes to steering i leave it to my mechanic who charges very reasonable rates, my mechanic changed the idler arm and tie rod ends on my 53 , took less than a hour he also did a wheel allighnment after chaging the tie rod ends so not worth trying to do myself, i would just replace the whole idler arm, parts for these cars are relatively in expensive when compared to newer cars, the thing is find a mechanic you can trust and stick with them, i have 2 mechanics 1 is for my high performance stuff and the other for my stock stuff, i have 4 cars a 55 olds a 53 olds both stock and a 68 convertible mustang with a 427 ford racing motor and a 66 cadillac with a 383 chev stroker pics below, so its very important to find someone you can trust and work out a special rate for being loyal , thats what ive done and in some cases its just not worth doing yourself if you don't have the correct tools and patients.
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#10
Thanks for the all the valuable info guys. Yeah, I've been web searching all day for the seal and I can't find it except as part of the whole idler arm assembly. The steering has about 3" of play to either side of center - does this seem reasonable? It's not tight like my 5-year old truck but I really don't expect it to be. I don't have any trouble driving it. But I agree, if the whole idler arm or any other components need to be replaced I'll take it to a garage.
#11
If you want to check for slop in the steering linkage, it's easy enough to do at home. For the idler arm just grab hold of the drag link and push it up and down while watching the end on the frame where that seal is. For the tie rod joints and drag link, lift one wheel off the ground and attempt to turn it side to side. Watch the joints for slop. Then lower the wheel and repeat on the other side. For the gear box have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the pitman arm to see if there is any slack.
#12
Probably hard to find
P.S. That stuff downunder looks GREAT!
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