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First I HOPE i put this in the right forum I don't know if it's a small block or big block, but looking at it it's pretty big could be a big block but only being a 257CI I thought it's probably a small block. I hope I'm correct.
As some of you may of seen on the newbie forum i purchased a 1941 Oldsmobile recently. I changes brake lines, wheel cylinders, brake shoes, and rebuilt the master cylinder and started driving it around town slowly working my way farther away from home as my trust grew in the reliability of the car. Well after about 100 miles i noticed it burns quite a bit of oil but no blue smoke and no dripping oil leaks. The motor seaps oil at the valve cover on the passenger side around the wing nuts and the front main seal based on the dirt collection around the harmonic balancer.
All i can come up with is "based on my 1941 six's and eight's repair manual" the valve guides or oil rings since these cars are not equipped with valve seals, all the diagram shows is valve spring dampers.
This coming weekend i'm ordering a water pump from kanter since the front seal is leaking and i believe the bearing to be on it's way out. So after that is replaced and the squeak is gone and the noise from the bearing is gone. i'll listen for unusual valve noise to see if i can hopefully find the issue there, and if not i'll do a compression test to see if i can find an issue there.
my manual shows compression readings should be
160 at 1,000 RPM or
105+10 on warm cranking engine (100 RPM)
is there something I'm missing or do you guys think i'm on the right track
Here's a pic of the car so if you haven't seen it and want to you don't have to search the forum for one
I moved your thread over to the Vintage forum because its not a big or small block and these guys are more familiar with your engine. I think your on the right track.
Cool car. Try running straight atf in place of the oil, had good luck unsticking piston rings. It is worth a shot but your engine is probably worn out.
ATF is high in penetration but not so much in lubrication value. IF mine I would probably only use a quart of ATF to four quarts of regular oil. Your millage may differ.
Compression test will help help with the diagnose of the upper valve area but a leak down test would help with the worn ring issue, just a thought.... Tedd
First off, you are definitely in the right place in the Vintage forum.
You didn't mention the mileage but those old flathead engines from the 40s and early 50s were good for about 80,000 miles at most before needing a 'top end' (valves grind and re-ring) due to wear. I'm just a bit older than your car so I remember both the cars and engines. With no full-flow oil filters and lower quality lubricants plus state of the art metallurgy, assembly and carburetors that were semi-controlled leaks, its a wonder the engines lasted as long as they did.
So don't be disappointed in your engine. Its probably done what it should as long as can be reasonably expected. If engine parts are needed or an overhaul/rebuild, be prepared for sticker shock as parts for the 8 cyl. engines are scarce and expensive. FWIW Egge Machine is the most well known place to get engine parts for these engines or they will do the rebuild for you.
Over the years I've watched a number of CO members search for parts or check out the cost of a rebuild and then wind up swapping engines. Sometimes a decent running original engine will come up on ebay or Craigslist as the result of an engine swap but it can be a long search and available engines are likely to be in some distant State and may be as worn as yours. More often they go to a later model Olds V8.
Your car's body looks pretty solid from the photo so it might be worth putting some money into keeping it stock if that is your desire. Its a labor of love as you're never likely to get out of them what you put into them. Count your enjoyment of the car as worth the expense.
Jerry
the car has 96,500 miles probably ready for a refresh kanter sells all the engine stuff are they any good in that department. The car is fairly solid minus where the rear fenders mount and the trunk
i'll do some testing to find out and get back to you guys
I had a '47 with that engine, I loved it, try to keep that straight 8 if you can!
Kanter sells a lot of Chinese made engine parts these days... I'd go with stuff from Fusick Olds or Egge as much as possible, just imho.
I ran one quart atf and filled to the full line let it idle until it warmed up, did this for 3 days once in the morning and again at night . Changed the oil with fresh 15w oil, started it, didn't see any blue smoke or burning oil smell at the tail pipe. Took it for a couple drives last week put about 400 miles oi it oil level is staying where it should. I'll keep driving it till I get 1000 miles on it and see what it does.
February 1st, 2016, 08:11 PM
