Thankyou for making this forum available.

Moderator - I moved this from the newbie thread.

I am slowly getting this car up and running.

So looking forward to any help and advice.

So far I have:
sourced and installed a water pump, changed all the window rubbers, mitigated the minor rust areas, sourced headlight rims - took forever, installed the rear bumperettes that I am sure are not stock, installed the gas tank, replenished the oil in the front and rear suspension, installed radiator hoses, had the grille welded and I polished before getting it and the door handles rechromed, had the wheel cylinders rebuilt, installed new brake hoses and started the 12 volt conversion.

 

So there a few things missing when I got the car.

- water pump
- headlight rims
- rear bumper brackets

So very fortunate in many ways and the car was in a rust free area.

All the rubber was badly perished and the leather was like card board.

So the first things I worked were the water pump and the brakes



Water pump, fan belt and hoses installed.

I bought the water pump from the states and it had no backing plate, which I made along with the gaskets. The thermostat was no good, so a new one is fitted.

I went to the local swap meet - which is in Bendigo and huge - and found somebody with a box of radiator hoses going cheap. So I took a few home and while they are not perfect, they do work fine.

I am told that the later model water pumps are better because they have a different set up for the bearing and are less likely to leak. But I was also told that if a source a later water pump that I need to get the fan specific to that pump.

Does anybody know if this is correct?

Thanks,

Des

 

Welcome to the vintage forum, I can't help you much because of my Ignorance of you year model but I may be of help on sending you to people who deal in the early pre- war vintage stuff. I just assume everyone knows about Fusick (860) 623-1589 and USA Parts Supply (703) 335-0904. If you don't get help here try the AACA forum it's not very active but some very knowledgeable people hang there. https://forums.aaca.org/ I wouldn't mention your thoughts on a street rod as that group is more into originality as I am also... Best of luck in your search....... Lost in the fifties.... Tedd

 

Gudday from a fellow 35 Olds Sloper nut.

How's progress mate. Mine moves slowly.

I'm running a modified later model water pump..the longer shaft was shortened by a fella in Eltham. This means you can run the original 35 fan/pulley setup.


Cheers Paddy.

 

Hey Paddy,

Thanks for the information. I think the Eltham water pump bloke is involved in the Oldsmobile club and he did some work for my uncle on his early 40’s Olds.
I saw your other post about your manifold welding. Olds35 on this forum aka Rohan might be able to help you - he is also in the club. When I got my car the pot metal grill was snapped in half but luckily I found a retired genius welder who fixed it. He no longer works, but Rohan found somebody else to weld pot metal, so if you like I can ask him. PM me if that helps. He may even have leads on parts as he is building a 35 convertible.

Your sloper looks like you are putting in a big effort to restore. That inlet manifold looks impressive. Can I ask a few questions about your car? What brake master cylinder are you using? Are you keeping the wooden frame? My doors sag a bit on the wood. Did you rebuild your shockers - my rear ones are leaking - I read somewhere that a place in Heidelberg might rebuild them, but I don’t have a name.

Regards,

Des

 

Thanks Des old china.

I spotted your more recent thread about the Sloper with more "toing and froing", so if all is good I'll respond there.

Just literally joined this Forum.

Cheers Paddy

 

In simple terms the diagnosis is that the engine needs a rebuild.
I can ‘rock’ the big end caps by hand and there is a heavy clicking sound.
the good news you ask, yes there is some. Through a mechanic I now have a very experienced local engine builder. And it looks like I can get most of the parts from the USA. Yes the exchange rate and the freight kill us here, but at least I can get the parts.
So I will get the engine out and strip it down ready for the machine shop.
Enjoy your classic,
Des

 

Almost, but not yet. The old foot operated starter motor trick defeats all attempts to remove the engine. So we retreat to prepare for the final assault.

enjoy your classic 😳😂

Note to all: remove front guards / fenders and radiator frame before engine

 

Does anybody have a suggestion about removing the bell housing. The dowels are rust free and not interfering.
. But I am not sure what pressure to apply to the bell housing in case it breaks😳😳😳.
I have given it a few good whacks with a rubber mallet - it’s teasing me, but not really moving too much.
any advice appreciated

 

Are you sure that all the bellhousing bolts have been removed ?
Especially the ones I have circled in the photo .
You will probably have to remove the flywheel to access them .

 

Thank you for both the response and information. No I didn’t know that those bolts were there.
So, if I am to remove the flywheel, I would need to remove the pressure plate and clutch.



Current view


Clutch fork


do I need to remove this bolt to remove the clutch fork? Then remove the pressure plate and clutch?

 

Gudday Des

You should have enough end play in the clutch fork for the pressure plate to "fall out". The flywheel can then be removed.

In my instance, the motor was seized, so rotation of the crank to access these bolts was not an option....pistons out through the bottom when the time came I think???

I had enough play between the bellhousing and the block to be able to cut the dowels using a very thin angry grinder disc....allowing the bellhousing to be lifted upwards.

Cheers Paddy...all good fun eh!