I have a 70 Cutlass S, with a TH 350. The Kickdown cable on it comes in the firewall and connects, or "should connect" to the pedal. I can see where it goes, but it is not staying in the notch. Is there a clip or something that holds it in place. Does anyone have a picture. And how do you adjust it when it is attached to the pedal?

 

There is no adjustment. It clips onto the pedal, into the bracket with the throttle cable, and then onto the carb. That's it.

 

Actually, there is an adjustment, it's at the pedal end. First, there are two parts needed to hold it in the pedal, a plastic bushing that snaps into the hole in the pedal arm and a small metal spring clip on the end of the cable. This clip can be adjusted to set the throttle position for the kickdown to operate.

 

Joe... Wouldn't have a picture, or a diagram of that piece that goes on the pedal would you? I imagine yours is a TH 400 with the electric. All I have is where the cable comes throught the firewall with a long black plastic cylinder say 1" long and a small piece to hold it, then about 1 1/2 " of cable no end. Nothing to fit the bracket on the pedal, though.

 

Don't know anything about a long black plastic cylinder. The first photo shows the accelerator pedal that is unique to the TH350 cars. The kickdown cable is the lower one. Note the black plastic grommet in the tab on the pedal and the metal end swaged on the cable that's poking through the grommet. The metal clip is missing in this photo.



The second photo shows the accelerator pedal, but look in the lower left corner of the photo and you'll see the metal clip on the end of the cable (obviously not installed at this time). The clip is simply bent spring steel and grips the swaged metal end after it passes through the grommet. You'll also note that the grommet is slid over the end of the cable in this picture, to the left of the clip.

 

Troy, if you can't find that little plastic grommet let me know. I've got a couple gas pedals from TH350 cars that have the pieces with them. John

 

Joe I didn't realise there was an adjustment. Thanks for that.

 

[QUOTE=joe_padavano;344079]Don't know anything about a long black plastic cylinder. The first photo shows the accelerator pedal that is unique to the TH350 cars. The kickdown cable is the lower one. Note the black plastic grommet in the tab on the pedal and the metal end swaged on the cable that's poking through the grommet. The metal clip is missing in this photo.



The second photo shows the accelerator pedal, but look in the lower left corner of the photo and you'll see the metal clip on the end of the cable (obviously not installed at this time). The clip is simply bent spring steel and grips the swaged metal end after it passes through the grommet. You'll also note that the grommet is slid over the end of the cable in this picture, to the left of the clip.

[
Thanks Joe, pictures help. I definately have no grommet and no metal spring. The black plastic piece I was talking about,looks like the metal piece that is swagged at the end of the cable. I'll post a picture, in the next day or so. I am not sure it is a complete cable Is this set up the same on all the 70-72 TH350 cars? I have a 72 that I am parting out, maybe it has the pieces. ]

 

[QUOTE=2blu442;344174]Troy, if you can't find that little plastic grommet let me know. I've got a couple gas pedals from TH350 cars that have the pieces with them. John[

Thanks John, I may have the pieces on the 72 I am parting out, but if I don't I will get in touch with you.]

 

All 1969-72 A-body cars with TH350 use the same cable.

 

Adjustment procedure is in the CSM on page 7-243. Mine was not downshifting properly either after converting to 4bbl from 2bbl. The adjustment was really quite easy to do. Less than 2 minutes. Just awkward to work under there.

 

Allan,
I've looked in the manual and perhaps I'm not looking in the right place. Can you give a walkthrough of the procedure to adjust the cable?
Min is brand new and e tranny recently rebuilt but will not downshift.

 

Mochi, you need to update the pick in your sig line. I clicked into your link. the car looks really good now.

 

Oh there are a few pictures missing. But I plan to update here soon :-)

 

Mochi, here's an efile of the area you should be adjusting. Look at page 7-243 (second page in) and then the bottom right side. There's an excellent pic (figure 7-640 Downshift cable adjustment) that shows how to do this. http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe...Section_7J.pdf

You may feel like it's wrong to try and pull that wire out of the plastic sleeve, but you need to do that. On the wire is a check ball. Once the check ball is free of the sleeve there will be no tension on it. When you next press the pedal to the floor, the check ball automatically seats to the correct position for downshift. Its so easy when you've done it. Place the 1/4 " open wrench end over the extended wire till it's at the top of the plastic tube. You use the wrench as the fulcrum for the channel locks to pull out the wire (like in the diagram). Once the check ball is out of the tube, you are done with the wrench and channel locks. Go slowly and firmly on the extraction.

 

Oh, that looks so much easier. I don't think I have the right manual and it cost me 25 bucks. It looks similar but this isn't in it! Awesome thanks Allan. I let you know how it goes!

 

You're welcome. Hope it works out for you. Like I said, it's a real easy thing to adjust, especially when it adjusts itself

For more information on this CSM, visit the Wild About Cars website (free to join, use and share). Go to the Oldsmobile section and you can download any of the factory service manuals, Inspectors Guides, Assembly manuals, etc for free. It's a great site with tons of valuable info. It's also got info on other brand names including exotics. Every month they send you an electronic newsletter to help you keep up with the times. Highly recommend it. http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/cgi-bin/myhomeopen.cgi

 

Thanks Allan! That saves me a ton!

 

ok so I fixed the shift issue, kinda. The vacuum modulator was not connected to the Edelbroc carburetor. Now she shifts but not on time. So, I did a bit or research and now I'm thinking the line is pinched or kinked somewhere. Can I replace it without dropping the tranny or pulling the engine? Meanwhile, I'm going to replace the vacuum modulator itself, looks simple enough.

 

Ok it took me a while, but finally parted out 72, no plastic gommet, and cable is shot. So here is what I am looking at, as you can see no long metal swag. the black plastic apears to have a small metal swag. If I pull on the cable when its free, it moves about a 1/2 inch and feels like its connected to the tranny ok. But if I try to hold the black plastic to the pedal to see if it will adjust, it will not slide on the cable. is this the wrong cable? Judging by the insulation condition, someone at sometime has been messing with it.

Kickdown cable CC.jpg

Joe- Thanks for the picture tec help.

Mochi- glad yours is fixed, liked the pics

2blu442- John, yep, going to needs some parts.

 

Ok, you're cable has definitely been played with. Here's what it should look like.

 

OK, if I try to adjust this the hard way, (IE a couple of vice grips to exend the swag on the cable) to get it to move. At what point of the pedal travel should the cable begin applying pressure on the kickdown cable?

 

Troy, it looks like you need a grommet. Anything else? Send me your address in a PM or email. John

 

I think without the missing plastic sleeve you won't be able to do it with your existing setup. The 'swag' piece you refer to I think is permanently attached to the cable. Mine didn't look like that when I adusted it. I had what looked like a 'check ball' attached to the cable.

EDIT: I just went back and looked at your pic. Is that long piece that looks silver in the pic actually the black plastic tube? If it is, all you have to do is pull the check ball out of the tube. Make sure the tube is held in place on the throttle bracket and then do the 'procedure' It will work just like it's supposed to. The 'pressure' is determined automatically by the amount of pedal movement on the assembly.

 

Onto the carb? How come my kickdown cable bolts to my transmission? I'm in the process of replacing my downshift cable currently, and it seems to me like I have to drop the trans pan and get up in there.

 

I think the poster meant to say "trans", not "carb". You do not have to drop the pan to change the cable. Unhook the cable from the accelerator pedal first. Remove the one bolt that holds the cable to the trans and pull up on the sheath. You'll see the end of the cable slipped over an "S" hook in the trans. Slide the cable off the "S" hook carefully so as not to dislodge the hook. Reverse the procedure to install the new cable.

 

eazy.. apparently there seems to be two different kinds of kickdown cabls, can you post a picture of the one you got,