jag1886

I've read a lot about putting this transmission in this car, this is what I have found so far. The transmission is the same length for certain. I've seen all different advice on mounting the cross member, I fount that if you drill new holes 6 3/8" back and use a 3/8" thick piece of bar stock for a spacer between the frame and cross member it bolts right in, the factory bump on the frame is no problem. The Ebrake was a little more complicated, I had read that all you have to do is shorten the hook on the pass side and everything works fine (not) that makes the cable ride extremely close to the drive shaft and doesn't take up enough slack in the cable, the brake would go on but it would drag the horseshoe behind the front cable adjuster between the frame and cross member and get stuck, I found that if you take the stock hook on the pass side and thread it to 5/16" and redrill a hole lower on the cross member and attach it by double nutting it, got it away from the drive shaft, but it was still to loose to keep the adjuster out of the floorboard/cross member pinch, to get rid of that problem I built two new hooks and mounted them in the floor reinforcement areas on both side to pull out on the cable, this worked perfect, it took up the extra slack in the cable and pulled the horseshoe on the front adjuster out far enough that it clears everything by a mile, the Ebrake now works better than it did to begin with.
Another problem I had was the dipstick, I found that if you use a short piece of the 200r4 dipstick in the transmission and a short piece of the stock 300ST dipstick at the top (slightly rebent) and a piece of 3/4" hydraulic hose to connect them, it bolts in the stock location and looks original and works real well, I cut down the length of the upper half of the tube until I got the full mark on the original dipstick to line up just like the 200r4 full mark.
Now if I could get the damned drive shaft to slid all the way in I'd be in like Flynn.
Hope this helps!

Lady72nRob71

This is a good thread - a real-life experience of what "should" be a bolt-in.
Please keep us up to date on progress and what it takes to do this swap successfully.
Hopefully there is an easy solution to the drive shaft issue.
Good luck on the rest of the install!

oldcutlass

When I converted the 67 to a T400, I used a Pickup truck tiedown hook I found at the auto parts store. It had 2 mounting holes, so I cut it down to 1 mounting hole cleaned up the end and bolted the the approximately 1" long peice onto the top of xmember in the existing hole. I reused all the old guide hooks and adjusted the slack out.

joe_padavano

The ebrake cable issue is easy to solve and has been covered here many times. Since the 200-4R and the TH400 both put the crossmember in the same place, simply use the front and intermediate ebrake cables for a 1967 Cutlass/442 with the TH400. These cables are readily available from any auto parts store and fit all 1964-67 Cutlii. Note that while all 64-67 2dr, 4dr, and flattop wagons use the same 115" wheelbase (and thus the same intermediate cable), the VCs use a 120" wheelbase and thus the intermediate cable is unique to those cars.

jag1886

Got the transmission install completed today, had to bend so short transmission lines to hook up to the original lines, I've got about 2" of clearance between the lines and the head pipe so I put a couple of heat socks for plug wires over them for a little extra protection, the lines do have to be reversed when up hook them up, 200R4 pressure line is on top. I got the original steel dust cover to fit , had to trim a little off the front and it went right on, it bolted to the stock holes at the top and I drilled 2 small holes half way down and used a couple of wire ties to attach it to the middle holes on the 200R4 bell housing.
I also had to remake the H-pipe on car because the cross member was moved back, I just sectioned a piece out of the rear and added to the front, it fit perfect, I will take it in and have it welded after it's running.

Rickman48

I, and probably many before me , have learned the hard way about rubber lines around transmission cooling lines;
They will leak, and sometimes come off, at the most inoppertune time!!
Replace them with 1 - piece lines, or use compression fittings, but keep them all steel!!
Trans torques with the engine, and one end of the lines is solid mounted - steel will withstand the flexing - rubber works it's way loose!!
Put a fire extinguisher in the car, 'til it's all steel!!

442Dave

I am putting a 2004r in my 65 442 now. Does the drive shaft need to be shortened? I just dropped the engine and tranny in tonight. I thought the 200 4r was the same as length as the jetaway so the drive shaft would be the same length but I am unsure now. I noticed the cross member being set back further - thanks for the measurements, I'm sure the brake cable will be a challenge also!
It is also a different spline on the drive shaft correct?

jag1886

Drive shaft fits without modification.

therobski

Guys I'm doing the same install in my 64 post. How did you compensate for the 10 degree downward angle on the frame when mounting cross member? I understand the bar stock thing but you still have the 10 degree angle to deal with? When you bolted it all together didn't you bend the frame up a little, kind of mashing it all together? After a huge exhausting search, I located some 10 degree beveled washers ( some people call them wedge washers) that I'm using in between the the frame and the cross member. Using two per bolt hole leaves all the mounting surfaces flush with one another. Going to install everything today and the 200R4. I hope that leaves the pinion angle the same too. If not the drive shaft will vibrate. Depending on your engine goals, rear end are you guys still using your original old two piece drive shaft?

therobski

Get an intermediate and front brake cable for a TH400, that's it.