1972 Cutlass S Shifter Question
1972 Cutlass S Shifter Question
This is my first Oldsmobile so I am new to the brand. I have a 72 Cutlass S with a console and the standard automatic floor shift. In order for me to move the shifter I have to push down with my two knuckles on the little chrome t-handle part of the shifter that is just below the shifter ball. This seems pretty akward and common sense tells that I should be pulling up, but when I took the shift apart the t-handle part is actually roll pinned to a rod inside the shifter to enable you to push it down to clear the detents at the bottom. I have been told that I should be pulling up on the t-handle and I have also been told that the t-handle part should be locked in place and the ball is the part you push down on. The latter seems to fit but the way this shifter is configured the rod inside the shifter it flat on top and it does not extend beyond the shifter handle anway and the wood ball currently screws to the threads on top of the shifter handle so it is the hard mounted part with the t-handle moving the rod inside up and down. I have compared my shifter to ones I have seen on the internet and ebay and they look identical so I am certain I have the correct year shifter. I have not seen any pics that show the top with the ball removed so I can see how the t-handle is fixed to the shifter and how the ball mounts to the shifter. I think somewhere along the way one of the previous owners screwed with it. Any help would sure be appreciated thanks.
Patrick
Patrick

On 67-77 Cutlass automatic floor shifters you hook your fingers under the T and push the ball downward with your palm to unlock the shifter from the detent plate.
The 1972 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual has a good exploded drawing of the shifter internals. I'm guessing you don't have one, and I don't have a scanner. I'll try to explain it best I can. If you're gonna keep this car, get a CSM. You can get a print copy or I think it's available on CD-ROM, but I hear scan quality isn't that good on some CD copies.
You've got the ball off, and I assume you've got the pins out of the T. You MAY have to lift the console out of the way to see all this stuff.
At the bottom of where the T attaches to the lever, there is a roll pin (or it may be a set screw, drawing isn't that clear) that secures the T to the lever and should prevent it from moving.
There is another roll pin at the top of the T. This one goes thru a slot in the inner shift rod, just below the threaded section where the ball screws on. This is what allows the ball to push the inner rod down.
If both pins are in place, you should be able to push the ball down and unlock the detent plate to shift.
I'll look close at my 74 when I go out to the other house this afternoon. It's the same shifter.
Yup. Sounds like sumbuddy's been buggering around in there.
Can you name that shifter
Hi Guys, Thanks for the all the replies. You have confirmed what others have told me that the t-handle is stationary and the ball gets pushed down. From what I can tell the shift plate looks to be the right one but I think the shifthandle is not correct or at least has some missing pieces. The hole in the top of the t-hanlde is for a rolled pin that connect it to the rod inside which allows you push down on the t-handle in order to shift, clearly not correct but I just don't see with the parts I have and how they are installed to get this working as described. In the shift ball photo there are two inserts in it. One tiny metal one at the bottom that is probably used in the correct installation and a white plastic one that allows the ball to be installed on the shift handle threads. I am thinking this shift handle or at least the rod inside are from a later model cutlass. It works the way it is but is just darn annoying how it works. I'll have to think about where to go from here, leave as is, find the right one, or convert to dual gate.
Thanks, Patrick
Thanks, Patrick
Hi Guys, Thanks for the all the replies. You have confirmed what others have told me that the t-handle is stationary and the ball gets pushed down. From what I can tell the shift plate looks to be the right one but I think the shifthandle is not correct or at least has some missing pieces. The hole in the top of the t-hanlde is for a rolled pin that connect it to the rod inside which allows you push down on the t-handle in order to shift, clearly not correct but I just don't see with the parts I have and how they are installed to get this working as described. In the shift ball photo there are two inserts in it. One tiny metal one at the bottom that is probably used in the correct installation and a white plastic one that allows the ball to be installed on the shift handle threads. I am thinking this shift handle or at least the rod inside are from a later model cutlass. It works the way it is but is just darn annoying how it works. I'll have to think about where to go from here, leave as is, find the right one, or convert to dual gate.
Thanks, Patrick
Thanks, Patrick
The rod inside is solid, no slot in it. The rod has two small holes in it for roll pins one at the bottom to connect to the lower rod and one about 2/3 the way that is currently used to fasten the t-handle to the rod inside. The shift handle has the slot cut in it to allow the t-handle to move up and down. So other than bolting down the t-handle with some kind of nut there is no way to secure it to the shift handle with a pin. The threads you see are part of the shift handle and not a bushing. I really don't know what I got here. It seems to be a conglomeration of several different years of shifter parts and possibly as you mention one that has been modified. When I got the car it had a shift handle on it from a 74 Cutlass however the mechanics of this shifter do not look like the shifter mechanism for that year, so who knows.
Thanks, Patrick
Thanks, Patrick
I looked close at mine today and it works differently. On the 74 shifter, the shift **** is stationary and you have to pull the T up to unlock it from the detent plate as the detents are on the TOP side of the plate. A 1972 shifter should have them on the bottom. (Can you tell it's been a while since I drove my damn car?)
If I had to guess, I'd say you have a 1973-77 shifter with a 1972 detent plate bolted to it. The T is up when not shifting, and you're having to push it down against the spring to get it past the detents.
I'm with Joe. Get another shifter and be done with it. This one's more aggravation than it's worth.
If I had to guess, I'd say you have a 1973-77 shifter with a 1972 detent plate bolted to it. The T is up when not shifting, and you're having to push it down against the spring to get it past the detents.
I'm with Joe. Get another shifter and be done with it. This one's more aggravation than it's worth.
Guys thanks for all the info. Rocketraider I agree with you it looks like I have mix of various years. I put it back in the way it was as it was functional and looked stock until you tried to use it.
I am now saving up to convert over to a dual gate to solve this once and for all.
I am now saving up to convert over to a dual gate to solve this once and for all.
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