Ok i have a 1964 jetstar 88 with 330 and jetaway or super turbine 300 as ive read here. Took it for the 1st drive this week since engine rebuild. Transmission is not kicking down. Whats the procedure to fix this. I went from 2 barrel to 4 barrel as well.

 

First- do you have the 1964 factory service manual set? Adjustment procedure will be in that.

Second- when you changed to 4bbl, did you use a factory 4GC carb, or a QuadraJet or aftermarket carb? If 4GC did you get all the associated brackets to mount the electric kickdown switch?

If not 4GC you might have to fab a mounting bracket for the switch.

Joe P has a 64 J88, I think it's 4bbl. He'll have pictures and how-tos to make your trans downshift.

 

Unfortunately it's a 2bbl. My 64 Vista is a 4bbl, however. The first thing to verify is that the kickdown switch is actually working. You can manually actuate the switch and listen for the click of the solenoid. If that works, then it's simply a matter of adjusting the switch. The plunger has a screw thread for adjustment. And yeah, this photo is a Buick, but the switch is the same.

 

I am using a qaudrajet i made a bracket for the low idle switch to mouny to the intake. I have some manuals im not sure if they are factory olds manuals, i would have to check there are 5 of them. I know some one with a factory manual and i will be picking that up monday. Not sure which piece actually needs adjustment 1 or 2.

 

Loosen the lock nut (arrow)
Disconnect the link at the carb lever
Turn the link to screw it in or out of the switch as needed
Reconnect the link to the carb
Tighten the locknut

 

When saying turn the link to screw it in or out of the switch as needed, should i hear i click or how will i know its set. And i would like to say thanks Joe you have helped me with a lot on the car.


[/QUOTE]

 

It's trial and error. ASSUMING the switch and kickdown are working, lengthen the link a few turns and drive the car. See where it kicks down. If you like the kickdown point, done. If not, adjust it some more. Since you have a non-original carb, the stock linkage geometry no longer exists. You need to play with it until it works for you. Making the link longer will lower the RPM at which kickdown happens.

 

Since i had to resolder the white kickdown wire back onto the car, can i check with a meter if its working properly?

 

Believe i found the info i was looking for in my service manual.

 

I adjusted the dashpot to what the service manual says. Now im trying my test light on the kickdown i can hear something clicking when i move the adjustment rod, however my test light does not come on at all when going back and forth. Does this mean the switch on transmission itself is bad.

 

My CSM isn't where I can get to it, but I think there's a TRANS fuse that powers the Jetaway kickdown switch. Check it. Even if not, ignition will still have to be in RUN to power it.

If you have a self-powered test light, unplug the wiring harness from the switch, then connect the test light to the switch terminals and operate the switch thru its range. Test light should light when the switch makes connection internally.

Joe- does this switch also operate the torque converter solenoid?

 

Ok so i need to have the car running to test it right.
If im testing in park and move the rod and give the trans a kickdown signal will this hurt the transmission. Im thinking it wont.

 

Also, since you changed the carb, make sure when you floor the gas pedal that the carb is opening all the way.

 

No. Engine OFF, ignition switch in RUN. In other words, turn switch till the warning lights are on, then the switch should have power.

 

Thats when i did my testing and the light will not come on. Now whats the next step.