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I am doing an auto to 4-speed swap in a 1967 Cutlass. I need to know the correct shifter linkage, and shift handleI will need for the swap. I seem to be getting conflicting answers online.. I do have a four-speed console that will be installed also. Thanks again for any and all help.
67-69 442 4 speed handles should be the same. 66 has a different cut for the lever under the ball. For a console car the ball is all black and smooth with no pattern inscribed.
There is a seller from western SC on eBay that rebuilds and sells the correct mechanisms.
Also, where does the frame bracket for the Z-bar connect. Just wanting to get that welded in if possible. If anyone has a picture that would definitely help. Thanks.
I have a complete restored OEM factory Hurst shifter with everything needed to install it. I have the handle rechromed, rebuilt mechanism ,rods and shift arms, mounting plate. new steel bushings and the new rubber isolators for the handle to mechanism connection. You will not need to look for anything to install. The rods, arms and mounting plate have been phosphated. If you have a Cutlass not a 442 I also have the handle without the 442 on it. There are a lot of shifters mechanisms and handles for sale but to find the linkage is another story all to itself. Contact me @ pchopesq@aol.com
Mike
For 1967, both M20 and M21 were available. The M22 was only offered by Olds in the 1971 model year. In any case, all Muncie transmissions use the same shifter for a given year. The frame bracket location is shown in the PIM.
Dang. While that drawing has the data, successfully measuring out over thin air would be fun. I recommend OP makes a jig of appropriate dimensions to locate Z bar mount.
How's that z bar get away with being on both sides of the motor mount? Just wobble around?
Dang. While that drawing has the data, successfully measuring out over thin air would be fun. I recommend OP makes a jig of appropriate dimensions to locate Z bar mount.
How's that z bar get away with being on both sides of the motor mount? Just wobble around?
The reality is that the location isn't that critical. The dimensions are +/- 0.030", and that's only because that's the default tolerance with two place decimals. The engine moves around waaaay more than that and the Z-bar is designed to accommodate the movement. Ball fittings at both ends, some axial compliance, and a system that isn't really that sensitive to tolerances. Personally I prefer a hydraulic throwout bearing, more to avoid problems with headers.