1961 F85 Rear End Swap

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Old December 3rd, 2012, 07:06 AM
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1961 F85 Rear End Swap

I smoked the stock rear end in my '61 F85 standard sedan. It is the factory highway geared differential. It faded out over the course of a 2 week period. I think it failed because I had freshly rebuilt the 215 with a big cam and went from a 2bbl to a 4bbl. I guess the resulting power boost killed the rear after about 2 months.

I need a new rear end. I imagine it will be very difficult to find another '61-'62 f85 rear. I have only seen a few other '61s on the internet, one of them was for sale and had a ford 9" rear.

Could I swap my rear for a ford 9" or 8.8"?

What do you fellas think I should do here?

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1201297_n.jpg
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Old December 3rd, 2012, 09:20 AM
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Cheapest/easiest way for myself personally, would be to find any rear axle close to the same width, and with a similar "close enough. the driveshaft will still fit" pinion snout length. Then cut off the shock mounts and spring pads on them both, and have the 61 mounts welded to your new rear.

Many people would take a different approach, but this would be easiest/cheapest for me. It'd be all done for under $300.
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Old December 3rd, 2012, 09:28 AM
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Can't tell where you are but I have a 62 parts Cutlass convertible at 48911

Not much left other than the final drive.

RocketScience442@hotmail.com
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Old December 3rd, 2012, 10:56 AM
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I'm in colchester, ct. J's path is most likely what will happen, the most available rear to me is an 8.8 posi out of a fox body
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Old December 3rd, 2012, 11:16 AM
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Just to brainstorm, The fox body rear will most likely be quite a bit wider than the lil' 61 rear. I believe fox body rears come in around 59.5" hub to hub. If you find a lx model, you will be able to retain the (correct appearing) 4 bolt hubs, although they may have a different bolt circle diameter.

Another thing to consider, is that the 8.8 rears have bolt on yoke flanges, and you have the different strap style. You will need to pirate the mustang driveshaft as well and use conversion u joints on the couplings.......assuming that the new couplers, and pinion snout don't protrude so much that you need to have the driveshaft shortened.

Measure twice, measure again. and then spend the time and $$$.
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