And yet another 200R4 question...
#1
And yet another 200R4 question...
I am putting a 200r4 behind my bored and stroked 350 rocket. What lock up torque converter should I get? this is a 72 cutlass convertible with Posi rear. Cruising car for long trips... Should be about 400 ft-lbs torque. want good road manners.
Are there supposed to be rubber isolators/ mounts for the transmission and/or crossmember? Mine did not have any. I was looking thru manuals and have not found any referrence yet...
Thanks guys.
Are there supposed to be rubber isolators/ mounts for the transmission and/or crossmember? Mine did not have any. I was looking thru manuals and have not found any referrence yet...
Thanks guys.
#3
Curious too, the CK basic one sounds decent. A guy on Olds power has it behind a 400+ ft/lb 403. Low 13's, 11's with nitrous. I am seriously considering that one. Edge and PTC sound decent also.
#6
#7
Just got my transmission on thursday... so much for 2 weeks.... I will open the box a little later today and report back... I have been wreslting with the rear end disc brake project.... the right stuff kit does not readily work with 15 inch SS1 wheels... so I need to turn the axle flanges down to 6" dia, take a couple of front rotors and turn them to 6-1/6 ID... shave the wheel monut face down to 1/4 thick... shim the caliper back 9/16... and that should do it... The brake lines in the kit shall we say need tweeking...(CNC benders are NOT this far off. We use them all the time where we work and to MUCH tighter tolerances... I hope the Bowties kit is a better experience!
#9
#12
Your first ? was about torque converter so I assume you were interested in stall speed. You didn't give us a lot to go on, such as what engine combo you're using and where your powerband starts.
Rule of thumb is whatever RPM your cam and intake starts its powerband, go a few hundred RPM past that on converter stall speed and everything should work. Example if your cam/intake is 2000-5500 range, a 2400 stall will work. A 2500-6500 combo, use a 3000 stall. Engine will be in its powerband and when the converter flashes and grabs, the car will move out like a cat shot in the ***.
Rule of thumb is whatever RPM your cam and intake starts its powerband, go a few hundred RPM past that on converter stall speed and everything should work. Example if your cam/intake is 2000-5500 range, a 2400 stall will work. A 2500-6500 combo, use a 3000 stall. Engine will be in its powerband and when the converter flashes and grabs, the car will move out like a cat shot in the ***.
#13
On friday raised the Body off the frame and installed new body mounts, and stainless fuel lines... (My experience is thatInline Tube parts are MUCH more accurate than the Right Stuff lines...)
Engine came saturday afternoon. (saturday morning I installed the rebuilt rear that Brian did for me...) (3.42 posi)
The rear also has disc brake conversion...
Next time I get back home, I plan on bolting up the transmission to the engine, and setting them into the car. (ran out of time this weekend...) (and in my spare time was installing a new windsheild into my little airplane)
I got the converter that Bowties recommended for my application.... IIRC, it is 2400 stall.... 380 stroker, 320 HP, 398 lbs-ft of torque...
Engine came saturday afternoon. (saturday morning I installed the rebuilt rear that Brian did for me...) (3.42 posi)
The rear also has disc brake conversion...
Next time I get back home, I plan on bolting up the transmission to the engine, and setting them into the car. (ran out of time this weekend...) (and in my spare time was installing a new windsheild into my little airplane)
I got the converter that Bowties recommended for my application.... IIRC, it is 2400 stall.... 380 stroker, 320 HP, 398 lbs-ft of torque...
Last edited by kitfoxdave; January 6th, 2013 at 07:19 PM. Reason: add converter info
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