Magna86

Ok I have found a deal on a Richmond Super T-10 with the high spline shafts (26 and 32 I believe) and a completely rebuilt 8.2 posi rear end with 3.36 gears. If I was to grab these and swap them for my TH350 and 70 O type axle will i need to modify the driveshaft or the yokes? What about parking brake cable? Also a auto console can be made into a manual console correct? What if I just grab and swap the rearend's?

Thanks
Magna

507OLDS

The console can be converted to a manual style console,with the repop adapter that the venders are selling.It is the same as the originals,and the same way they did them at the factory.
The driveshaft will need to be shortened,and you will need a TH400 style yoke.I don't know what kind of power your engine is making,or what you plan on doing with the car,but that trans will take more abuse than that rear.

Magna86

I have no idea on the power but it will move the car pretty well with a 2.78 open rear. Ok so maybe better idea is pickup the trans and rebuild my 12 bolt O type? I don't know specifics on the trans(ratios) but the new Super T-10's are good trans even with the aluminum case? I know everyone says the old Iron case ones are stronger.

garys 68

My 72 is an auto to T10 conversion.
The new T10s are rated at about 350 ft/lbs, although I suspect that's pretty conservative. Going to race it?
The console can be converted with a $100 kit, got mine from the parts place. You'll need the AIM instructions on where to cut it.
They also sell a console specific tunnel hump.
You'll need a new driveshaft. It's probably cheaper to order a custom driveshaft, I got mine for about $200.
You can shorten the e brake cable and "S" shaped cable support that hangs on the crossmember.

Magna86

Maybe long time down the road will take it to the track. Right now miss the joy of a 4spd and a big block! ;-) I know most of the parts I need for the conversion from reading on here just wasn't sure on the Super T-10 and e-cable/driveshaft as everyone goes Muncie. I had a regular 71 T-10 in my 79 TA and never had any problems so figure the new Richmond Supers have to be better. They probably are under rated so they can protect themselves on warranties.

garys 68

A 2.6 first gear with a 2.73 rear will be a little tall, so I wouldn't expect too much at the track. But it wont be bad for milage and hiway. You'll be spinning 2400 rpm at 70 mph.
I ran a muncie with 2.73 rear with my LS engine swap. First gear was tolerable and would be better with the 455 torque. I ended up swapping out the muncie for a T10 for a couple reasons, one being the T10 had a 3.42 1st gear ratio. I wouldn't suggest a 3.42 T10 for big block torque, it's the weakest version of the trans.
If you want the 4 speed, swap it out and see how it works with youor current rear.

507OLDS

The TH350 cars,and the 4-spd cars used the same E-brake cables up front because the crossmember was in the same location,so you should not need different ones,UNLESS the T10 has a different mounting point for the rear mount,thus relocating the crossmember.

To do everything on top of the console,you will need the complete adpater/boot assembly,which is about $150.00 with shipping,the chrome top plates,which are about $70.00,and the woograin inlays for the top plates,which are about $75.00.

Run to Rund

The richmond site gives torque ratings for the various first gear ratio T10s. They are good trannies until you use a stiff clutch, slicks, etc. then they get more marginal. They are probably a good bit stronger than Muncies with original era parts. Note that the newer ones use M10 x 1.5 bolts for the tranny mount and M6 x 1.0 bolt for the speedo. The mount is in the same old Muncie position but late Muncies and T10s are 1/2" longer than the early stuff. You don't have the performance series of Type O, which starts at 3.42 but the 8.2 ten bolt is the wrong way to go.

507OLDS

I was always under the impression that the T10 & Super T10 was stronger than a Muncie,but after talking with a few experienced manual transmission builders & specialists,they don't think so,or at least they don't think one is better than the other.

garys 68

The early Muncies with 10 spline input and 7/8" countershaft were not terribly strong. That small countershaft hole in the case wallowing out was a big source of failures. The Super T10s have a 1" countershaft that's keyed too to prevent movement. The case is a little thicker than the muncie too.
You can get a lot of upgrades for the muncie, supercase, iron midplate, etc. I havn't seen much in the way of upgrades for the T10. Not sure if that means they're not needed?????
Have not heard much in the way of difference in gears. Although I think most that need a 4 speed upgraded over a Muncie/T10 go to the square cut Nascar type boxes likre a T101, Jericho, etc.

Magna86

Well the car is getting the rear end upgraded as well. As it seems here the BOP 8.2 axles are not that great. So I'll locate the parts to upgrade my 70 O type to 3.42 posi. Gas mpg is not a worry as I have 3 motorcycles to use for daily fun.

Magna86

Ok found out the transmission has a 2.88 first gear and he said was for road racing. So from what I looked up the trans is only rated up to 300ft lbs of torque. Even my frankenmotor has to have that much torque. So worried if the trans would hold up let alone when I upgrade the engine performance. What you guys think is it worth the risk of breaking it? I'm not a hard driver but have some fun with the car.

garys 68

The only 2.88 1st gear T10s that I know of were in corvettes with small blocks around 1980. Not a big torque motor and absolutely nothing to do with road racing. BS alert, you would expect a close ratio for road racing. Just a note, the higher the first gear ratio, the weaker the trans. So not what I would call the optimal trans for a BBO and 3.42 rear.

Rickman48

Don't forget to check the crank for pilot bearing hole, and block for Z bar ball hole!
Aftermarket T-10's were available with that 2:88 first for guys with 'tall' rear gears.
B-W thought it'd be a selling point.
They sold pretty well.

garys 68

The link below might help you ID the trans.
If it's cheap and it wouldn't be a disaster if you break ot, go for it. I recently bought a T10 for $100, another $100 for rebuild kit.
If you really want to build something to last with a modified big block, a Muncie with supercase and iron midplate would be a good start. Use the close ratio rock crusher gears for max strength. With a 2.2 1st, a 3.70 might be a better rear end.
T10 info:
http://www.pontiacpower.org/BW.htm
Source for Muncie upgrade:
http://www.tbtrans.com/muncie_4_speed.htm

Magna86

Richmond has 2 trans that they currently sell the Super T-10 and the Super T-10 Plus. Both have the same ratios available. The Plus is machined for higher strength and durability for road racing according to their site. He bought this from Summit. I'm worried about breaking the trans. Yes I know about the pilot bearing which I have a feeling will not be drilled into crank and my block have the location for Z bar pivot. Yeah its not cheap like that or I would just buy it. Think just going to pass and work on getting the parts together for my posi and rear disc upgrade.

Run to Rund

The 2.88 first geared Super T10 that I have used is the AS10T10Y which has the nodular iron main case and 9310 nickel alloy gears. It has held up to 9 x 29.5" slicks and 6000 rpm takeoffs on the strip with 4.88 rear gears (RIchmond Pro gears, 9310 alloy). However, I only made a few passes so I don't know how well it would hold up long-term. Also, the 9310 gears must help strength considerably.

For your application, 507Olds can help you select a rear, and you have to think about the transmission. Street transmissions get iffy with today's coated tracks and slicks. You can use a strip tranny like a Jerico on the street readily if you choose road race sliders, but if you get a used NASCAR version, they have hard gears and aren't really drag race trannies either. You can protect a marginal tranny on the strip with lesser tires, but if you get into wheel hop, you could have trouble.

Run to Rund

Also, the clutch has a big influence on longevity. Yesterday's 3000 lb. pressure plates have given way to about 1000-1500 lb total pressure with counterweights or rollers giving part of that pressure, and sintered iron disc material for drag strips. These clutches can be used for limited street use, and are designbed to give a little bit of slip on takoff and shifts to protect the drivetrain and improve takeoff.

garys 68

Rund has some good advice. I would prefer an iron case trans over the new super T10 rated at 300ft/lbs.
IIRC, in the early 80s, when rear ends were using lower numeric gears, the higher numeric 1st gear T10s were advertised as drag racing transmissions. Better acceleration with 2.88 to 3.42 1st gear. They had the iron case, I'm not sure of their torque rating, but probably more than 300 ft/lbs.