Think I've burnt my trans up..
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Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 118
Think I've burnt my trans up..
My 2004r is not engaging in 2nd that good. The rpms rev up and it only pulls slightly while it's in second so I think a full rebuild is in order..
A little back story on it. I've put the transgo shift kit in it. Did wild on everything. Deleted the 1-2 accumulator and dual feed the circuits. I run a 2800 stall.
The trans was doing really well. Shifts were on time and crisp but I did notice second not being as crisp so that's when I dual feed the circuits and that about fixed it, until now...
Anyways, I want to overbuild this thing to handle about 600 or so. Currently I have a 455 with probably around 500 torque with a mild cam.
Any suggestions; part numbers, rebuild kits, or manuals would be greatly appreciated.
I have not done a 2004r before but I'm not scared of it. I've done the valve body and got it to where I want it and now just need to get the internals in order. Thanks for any suggestions..
A little back story on it. I've put the transgo shift kit in it. Did wild on everything. Deleted the 1-2 accumulator and dual feed the circuits. I run a 2800 stall.
The trans was doing really well. Shifts were on time and crisp but I did notice second not being as crisp so that's when I dual feed the circuits and that about fixed it, until now...
Anyways, I want to overbuild this thing to handle about 600 or so. Currently I have a 455 with probably around 500 torque with a mild cam.
Any suggestions; part numbers, rebuild kits, or manuals would be greatly appreciated.
I have not done a 2004r before but I'm not scared of it. I've done the valve body and got it to where I want it and now just need to get the internals in order. Thanks for any suggestions..
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,105
From: central Indiana
Good band, premium direct clutches, 10 vane pump, dual priming springs, hardened stator support, machine the overdrive piston the equivalent of one friction (install the 3rd friction between the 2 steel plates stacked together) and install a input clutch housing with hardened shaft. Replace what is worn, pay attention to the clearances, good luck! Built right, those are good transmissions
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 118
Good band, premium direct clutches, 10 vane pump, dual priming springs, hardened stator support, machine the overdrive piston the equivalent of one friction (install the 3rd friction between the 2 steel plates stacked together) and install a input clutch housing with hardened shaft. Replace what is worn, pay attention to the clearances, good luck! Built right, those are good transmissions
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,105
From: central Indiana
The manual from CK performance is probably the best. It has far more technical info and tips than any other I have found.
if your happy with the shift characteristics of your current valve body, I can’t imagine any need to change it. As long as the rebuild maintains hydraulic integrity, the upgrades would make things durable over the long haul.
In my opinion, the biggest flaw with the 700 trans is when you finally get enough hydraulic pressure and friction area to handle big power, parts start to break, starting with planetary gears and ending with the input shaft and input housing. The 200R4 has stamped steel carriers that can be easily made from better materials and still be lightweight. The 700 input housing would be pretty heavy if it was made with anything other than aluminum.
if your happy with the shift characteristics of your current valve body, I can’t imagine any need to change it. As long as the rebuild maintains hydraulic integrity, the upgrades would make things durable over the long haul.
In my opinion, the biggest flaw with the 700 trans is when you finally get enough hydraulic pressure and friction area to handle big power, parts start to break, starting with planetary gears and ending with the input shaft and input housing. The 200R4 has stamped steel carriers that can be easily made from better materials and still be lightweight. The 700 input housing would be pretty heavy if it was made with anything other than aluminum.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 118
The manual from CK performance is probably the best. It has far more technical info and tips than any other I have found.
if your happy with the shift characteristics of your current valve body, I can’t imagine any need to change it. As long as the rebuild maintains hydraulic integrity, the upgrades would make things durable over the long haul.
In my opinion, the biggest flaw with the 700 trans is when you finally get enough hydraulic pressure and friction area to handle big power, parts start to break, starting with planetary gears and ending with the input shaft and input housing. The 200R4 has stamped steel carriers that can be easily made from better materials and still be lightweight. The 700 input housing would be pretty heavy if it was made with anything other than aluminum.
if your happy with the shift characteristics of your current valve body, I can’t imagine any need to change it. As long as the rebuild maintains hydraulic integrity, the upgrades would make things durable over the long haul.
In my opinion, the biggest flaw with the 700 trans is when you finally get enough hydraulic pressure and friction area to handle big power, parts start to break, starting with planetary gears and ending with the input shaft and input housing. The 200R4 has stamped steel carriers that can be easily made from better materials and still be lightweight. The 700 input housing would be pretty heavy if it was made with anything other than aluminum.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 118
I'm going to order both the manual and kit soon but also needed to know if there's any other hard parts I need to have before ordering?
There's a ton of hard parts but of course I just need it to hold for 5-600 torque...thanks.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,148
From: Plano, TX
Read the manual first. And/or call and talk to Chris.
You can spend as much or as little as you want!
Their parts pages are pretty good, so you can get an idea of what all is out there.
BTW, you'll want to tear yours down and see what's damaged. e.g., my band failed, which then tore up the direct drum. So gotta replace that. Already have a billet forward drum and a hardened low shell, but most of my other internal parts are stock.
You can spend as much or as little as you want!
Their parts pages are pretty good, so you can get an idea of what all is out there.
BTW, you'll want to tear yours down and see what's damaged. e.g., my band failed, which then tore up the direct drum. So gotta replace that. Already have a billet forward drum and a hardened low shell, but most of my other internal parts are stock.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 118
Read the manual first. And/or call and talk to Chris.
You can spend as much or as little as you want!
Their parts pages are pretty good, so you can get an idea of what all is out there.
BTW, you'll want to tear yours down and see what's damaged. e.g., my band failed, which then tore up the direct drum. So gotta replace that. Already have a billet forward drum and a hardened low shell, but most of my other internal parts are stock.
You can spend as much or as little as you want!
Their parts pages are pretty good, so you can get an idea of what all is out there.
BTW, you'll want to tear yours down and see what's damaged. e.g., my band failed, which then tore up the direct drum. So gotta replace that. Already have a billet forward drum and a hardened low shell, but most of my other internal parts are stock.
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