Re building a th350
November 12th, 2014, 07:26 PM
#81
THIS thread has an ending lol. Finally drove the car last weekend. The trans worked great. Shifted all 3 gears good even with the un adjusted mistery vacuum modulator . 1st gear wound it up to about 5k rpm and she pulled good. Didn't get into it too much . The 5k rpm run in 1st was by mistake as my linkage is completly out of adjustment. 2nd is 1st , 3rd is 2nd, neutral is 3rd lol. But it worked great . I gotta say thanks for all the help guys. Now its just a matter of it holding together long enough to make me happy lol.
November 13th, 2014, 10:03 AM
#82
Registered car nut
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
Hey Copper thanks for the inspiration. I have a freshly build T350 sitting and waiting as well as a freshly built T350 that was fresh about 20 years ago. 
Zero mile rebuilt trans that is froze up and might be a fun project when time allows.
Zero mile rebuilt trans that is froze up and might be a fun project when time allows.
January 31st, 2016, 10:16 AM
#83
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 558
I think the seal trick is if you are not doing a shift kit style deal for the dual feed . I'm using the b&m shift kit that came with the trans kit everything says to not do the seal and plug mod if you are using a shift kit. I left the wave plate out in the direct drum and used the wave plate in the forward drum as the book stated it does not enhance performance on that assembly. I know how you get the clearance does not matter but since getting a different selective plate was not really an option for me we had to make sure our cut was going to be dead nuts. I just thought I would mention how we achieved our clearance based on pre measurements so if anyone was interested in doing the same they had some sort of way to figure it out. Although I found it odd the b&m kit supplies prints for the machining but neglects to explain that they are talking about machining a 4 clutch pack piston. I had a 3 clutch piston on the direct drum and the pre measurements really screwed me up which is why we spent some time to figure it out. I then decided to reference the ron sessions book which references the b&m mod prints., what they specify is different from what is in the supplied b&m instructions dimension wise but same drawings . We might have over thought it but a lot of research said to cut .160 - .170 and we cut much more than that off (.233) which if you cut .170 off a 3 clutch piston you would be wayyyy too tight. maybe we over thought it but the end result was great lol.
I am running into the same issue with my direct stack. I have 0 clearance with 4 frictions, 4 steels, and a wave plate. I would have to take .227 off the piston to get .050 clearance with a 5th friction (.1) and 5th steel (.077).
I'm worried that if I cut the piston that short the wave and steel plate will fall below the slots where the the alignment tabs go in the notches of the inner walls of the direct drum and possibly bind up the piston.
Did you notice this? I guess I'll find out where everything falls into place after I cut the piston.
Last edited by VinMichael; January 31st, 2016 at 10:23 AM.
January 31st, 2016, 10:54 AM
#84
Use a flat steel in place of the wave plate. See what that does for clearance . I omitted the wave plate in mine ., only do that to the direct assembly not the forward clutch stacks
Last edited by coppercutlass; January 31st, 2016 at 10:57 AM.
January 31st, 2016, 11:14 AM
#85
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 558
I'll try that. Any harshness when putting in reverse without the wave plate? Thanks
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