Aceshigh

Guys , I need a flywheel for my '70 Rocket 350.

I priced a few options out on Ebay, but then learned from this site that
you need to be sure the flywheel is balanced, and if it's EXTERNALLY or
INTERNALLY balanced is very important.

Basically internally balanced = balanced with the rotating assembly together.
That's not going to work for me because I'm NOT ripping the engine apart.
So I need a quality but INEXPENSIVE solution flywheel that's externally balanced.
I don't know if stock Olds flywheels were internally or externally balanced either......
So if someone knows that, please enlighten me. Thanks.

Should I look at the stock one's , and if so, where's a reliable retailer for them??
Trying to shop for the cheapest deal here, but quality.

I was considering this one for $216
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SFI-B...Q5fAccessories

copper128

Manual trans flywheel, right?
Just checking - some folks refer to the auto trans flexplate as a flywheel.

Factory Olds engines were all externally balanced. On a stock engine that won't see high RPM launches, the factory cast iron flywheel will do fine. Billet flywheels are stronger, safer for high RPM and racing use. The eBay item you linked will do just fine. Of course a used stocker will be cheaper.

joe_padavano

I'm pretty sure the internal/external designation on Olds flywheels is due to the Chevy-centric world we live in. The reality is that the two Olds flywheel distinctions are 64-67 and 68-90 due to the different crank flange bolt pattern. I guess the catalog folks at Summit and Jegs see two different Olds flywheels and ****U*ME that they must be like Chevy.

Run to Rund

An internally balanced engine uses the dcrankshaft counterweights to fully balance the pistons, rods. There won't be any counterbalance in the damper or flywheel. Olds engines use counterbalance in those items to complete the engine balance, so it is externally (that is, outside of the oil pan) balanced. There are two different Olds external balances ("Detroit balance"), one for up to 1967, and the other for 1968-up. As noted above, the crank 6 bolt pattern for the flywheel is different so you don't use the wrong Detroit balance flywheel, meaning a wheel with some counterbalance in it (OEM used a hogged out as cast area; aftermarket generally uses about a half dozen holes drille dnear the perimeter).

Another point is that today's aftermarket flywheels are generally made simpler than the original ones which had a stepped out area. As a result they weigh about the same but the clutch surface is closer to the crankshaft on the new ones. You may need a longer ball stud for the clutch fork, such as the adjustable Lakewood.

Aceshigh

Thank you for the responses gentlemen.
Quite a few days went by and I didn't see any responses to I gave up on this thread.

Came back and WHOA......got some action!!! Thanks.
I'm going with a Hydraulic throw out bearing slave/master all that jazz for this trans.
Going to require some extra effort, but it will be worth it because I want to keep my headers.

Do you guys know of an Olds site that gets faster traffic ?? I'm a member of Nastyz28 for 2nd Gen Camaro's,
and TeamChevelle mainly because response time on this site is sooooooo slow. Just curious.

Texas Jim

I think this IS THE Olds site. I've been a Chevy man all my life and just got a 455 lately. The guys on here are IT when it comes to Olds stuff. If you have a question, you'll get a response, and a worth-wile one at that. Be patient, it'll be worth it.

dc2x4drvr

I run headers with the stock Z-Bar. You'll probably have to relocate the brake combination valve either way, I moved mine to a bracket below the master cylinder. Consider having the flywheel and clutch assembly "neutral balanced" before installing,