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I will try to keep the rest of my swap on this page. I propped the back of the block up from the ground using a starter bolt hole and some 3/4" threaded rod. And pulled my trans out today, and noticed i will need a longer speedometer cable. What can i do about this. Going to powerwash the 200r4 i have, its used. Im thinking of putting in the car as is with the exception of changing the filter, gasket and output shaft seal. Going to weld a drain bung on the factory pan. Also going to clean up the crossmember and give it some sort of coating.
Some mild upgrades won't be a bad idea, what power is your motor putting out? Even do bigger boost valves and check the condition of the stator splines. A servo and shift kit also help shift quality. Be aware some of the 2004R governors shift full throttle at 3000 rpm, hopefully you got one of the 4000 rpm governors. You need to figure out the length needed and search online or hit some junkyards for the speedometer cable. Good luck.
I have never worked on the internals of a transmission before. I think the easiest thing i could do would be a servo. My engine is a fresh rebuild. 330 bored, 7a heads, jm1820 cam, aluminum intake and qaudrajet 4 barrel.
That is enough power, you should do some upgrades. It isn't hard to change boost valves, especially with the trans out of the vehicle. Basically it is a snap ring that holds them into the bottom of the pump. The CK shift kit includes the .555" boost valve and they offer two different servo options. I bought the CK shift kit, improved base GN servo and their high performance pump. The Transgo shift includes the .500" boost valve and servo in the kit. I have used it multiple times. The Transgo green line bias spring raises full throttle shifts about 300 rpm, which is helpful. Both shift kits and servo are in the $200 range. I used Dr Dan's method for setting the Transgo billet servo which required none of the 3 washers they include with it. FYI, If you set the servo too tight, it will fry the band. Your stock, probably D9, stamped all around the edge should flash stall around 1900 rpm FYI. Good luck. This is the 700R4 but very similar on the 2004R.
Yes, I believe a blue tag is a 85 model. It should have 4000 rpm shifts. It was behind the basic LG4 sbc 305. Do the upgrades, it has smaller boost valves and servo. Also pay attention to your speedometer gears when you have the pan off to get your speedometer accurate. There is probably a brown or black gear attached to the speedo bullet. I have only seen those two 26 and 27 tooth gears in these trans. Use this calculator to get it accurate. Good luck. https://www.tciauto.com/speedometer-gear-calculator
There is a good chance you have either the Brown 26 tooth of Black 27 tooth driven gear. The calculator will show NaN if it isn't possible with the gears available. You have to enter 10, 11, 12 or 13 in the drive gear column FIRST, along with tire height and axle ratio. It tells you the available gears for the 2004R right below the calculation tables.
Yes, I currently have the TCI kit on my 70S. It works quiet well but the vacuum switch is very sensitive to adjustment. It works fine out of box with a stock cam that pulls 20+" of vacuum. It needed adjustment for 16" of vacuum my 214/214 cam made.
Ok i ordered the tci wiring kit and the brackets from everyday performance, also i picked my crossmember up from sandblasting today so hopefully i can have it painted by the weekend.
With parts on the way, getting closer to putting this thing in the car. I have 4 litres of unused dextron iii that ive had from another car of mine, its sat for a while. I dont think this stuff goes bad. Ive read that ford f type fluid is good for these transmissions is it ok if i mix.
Most say don't mix, the Type F is a more aggressive fluid vs Dexron 3. Some people use tractor trans hydraulic fluid and mix just a few liters of ATF, so you can see it on the dipstick. Your ATF should be fine as long as it isn't ancient. You will need 10+ liters or quarts for an empty transmission. The Monte TV cable will work, you with also want a the factory TH2004R TV cable bracket as well.
Sounds like i will just pick up some more dextron iii. I ordered the brackets from everyday performance. I would have usually gone to the junkyard for parts. However im in Canada and the junkyards are way better across the border.
Also in Canada, these cars have dried up in a lot of yards, high volume especially. I was lucky the closest yard to me still had good TH2004R's. I got his last good one a couple years back. The cars with factory 2004R were still being driven 10 years ago in Saskatchewan in a noticeable amount. They only completely disappeared in the last few years from our roads.
My tci kit showed up. Was wondering did you set yours up for automatic lock up or manually controlled lock up. Im thinking just automatic for myself. I just finished watching a youtube video on the tci wiring they talk about possibly needing a dual wire solenoid. I wish i had known that before ordering this kit. That way i could have ordered a solenoid at the same time. I have yet to go in the garage and see which solenoid i have.
A little before and after. Not sure if i used the blue butt connectors correctly, i left about an 1/8" of wire stripped and the tightened them as much as i could. There was nothing in the instructions on how to use these.
Looks like i need a 64" drive shaft. The driveshaft yoke does not go in the 200r4 as far as the other trans, wondering if i should trim the length so the splines are getting more contact. However looks like the speedo cable is long enough and will bolt in, provided its the same style.
Last edited by 330jetstar; Feb 4, 2022 at 09:48 AM.
Today i was trying to bolt the torque converter to flexplate and the tranny stops dead at 1/2 turn. Tried prybars. I can get 2 bolts in but not the third. Took the torque converter bolts back out, pulled the spark plugs engine spins freely. Trans does not. Uh oh
When you put it in the torque converter, did you hear two clicks? If there was no gap between the converter lugs and flex plate, good chance it wasn't fully seated. Even on stock converters, there is at least 1/8" of space. You can try reseating, you might be lucky and didn't cause any damage.
Between the torque converter and flex plate i have have about 1/4" gap. Filled the converter with fluid, left the transmission empty for now, in case of problems.
It should spin very easy unhooked from the motor. You probably have to lower it down, pull the converter and check for damage. There has to be two engagement clicks on install. Push in and spin thr converter on install.
Update: i pulled the transmission back out of the car and brought it to get looked at. Turns out the pump had blown up on the former owner. The trans guy also showed me the intermediate shaft splines were heavily worn out. So going forward with a rebuild. Hes putting a hardened shaft in as well as converting the pump to make it stronger. Hes very familiar with the 200r4s. Built a 200r4 and a 700r4 for my friend. Now when i had the trans in the car i noticed there was about a 1/4" gap between the flexpate and the torque converter. He said you can put washers in beween like i have read on this forum. Now personally im torn between this because i don't believe washers should need to be in there. However on the other side of things i also believe the torque converter should be engaged in the trans as far as possible. Thoughts.
There should not be any washers needed between the torque converter and the flexplate. The nose of the converter should fit into the pilot on the crank flange. If it is not seating into this pilot figure out why.
Didnt say anything about it not fitting in the crank. It was just 1/4" gap. It goes in the crank no problem. Seems like it should be in transmission as far as possible?
Didnt say anything about it not fitting in the crank. It was just 1/4" gap. It goes in the crank no problem. Seems like it should be in transmission as far as possible?
No, it should not be in the trans as far as possible. You push it all the way in initially. Once the trans is bolted to the engine, you pull the converter out until the nose is in the crank and the pads are against the flexplate. There are no shims or washers from the factory. The splines on the converter are designed to specifically accommodate this travel.
One more time, when the nose of the converter is all the way in the crank, is there still clearance to the flexplate? If there is, something is wrong.
Didnt say anything about it not fitting in the crank. It was just 1/4" gap. It goes in the crank no problem. Seems like it should be in transmission as far as possible?
If the converter is built correctly, with the converter pushed all the way into the pump you should have 1/8-3/16 space between the flex plate and converter. If you have more than that, something is wrong.
You will need a replacement converter with the rebuild at any rate. I had an Oregon Performance converter for a 2004R that had at least a 1/4" gap, 3 washers easily fit. When I sucked it against the flex plate, on start up, it caused a massive leak. That converter also imploded at the 1/8 mile track, it tells me quality control was lacking. You may find a difference in gap on the new converter due to manufacturer's tolerances.
