Have a 1978 oldsmobile cutlass, had to change flexplate as the old one was cracked. Kind of new to this and just tightened them down with loctite kind of just feeling by hand how tight they were. My friend later told me I had to torque the bolts in 3 steps. Wondering If this is true and how much of an impact it has. And should I take it all apart again to retorque them if I got them nice and tight?

 

Just snug them down tight then put a torque wrench on it.

 

Three steps is not necessary. I just torque them in one pass, using a star pattern.

 

Closed end wrench and a hammer- yep high tech....

 

Was reading where he said Loctite for the flexplatr bolts...yes or no?
thanks

 

@ Frambs, I wouldn't worry about it at all. Be sure the converter bolts are tight and Loctite would be good there also.

@ Tirediron Loctite? It can only help.

 

Blue removable loctite isn't a bad idea on any drive line component. Red is OK too but you'll need heat to remove the bolts.

If you already applied the loctite days ago you should not re torque. It will break the loctite and or give a false torque value.

You'll need to remove the bolts clean them and the crank holes and start over. A small dab of locker will do.
Make sure the wheel and crank flanges are clean.

You dont need to bring the bolts down in steps with the torque wrench but Id snug them down evenly with a socket wrench then torque to spec.

 

Bear in mind that loctite, wet, is a lube. Dry torque specs will result in more clamping force when used on a lubed joint. Will it matter? Some. I certainly would never go above dry torque values on a lubed joint.