downshift cable too long?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
downshift cable too long?
I know this has been beaten to death but I have an issue. I installed a new cable and everything is there but when I try to adjust according to this thread and diagram from the CSM, nothing happens.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...cutlass-s.html
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Here's a pic of mine. It seems like the cable is too long. Do I need to add something between the tube and the grommet?
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https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...cutlass-s.html
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[/IMG]Here's a pic of mine. It seems like the cable is too long. Do I need to add something between the tube and the grommet?
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Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
I picked up a cable retainer. I may try that.
Mr. Johnson
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 574
From: Cleveland Ohio
Not sure what you mean. I just pushed the pedal to the floor with my foot but it's not pushing the sleeve over the check ball. I tried adding another plastic sleeve to the existing one but still nothing. When I pull the cable it feels like it's actuating the trans lever so I don't think it fell out on the trans end. It just seems too long.
I picked up a cable retainer. I may try that.
I picked up a cable retainer. I may try that.
Did you hold the black thingy with a wrench as you pulled the wire back.
Then mat the pedal to the floor and it will seat itself where it needs to be.
Looking good Mac almost there!!!
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From: Poteau, Ok
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
Either I'm being denser than usual (the most likely cause) or we're talking about two different things.
I have the cable coming through the firewall, through the gas pedal tab with grommet, about another inch of cable, then the black plastic tube/sleeve, and lastly the check ball.
The procedure is supposed to be:
1. Using a wrench and pliers, dislodge the check ball from the sleeve (mine came dislodged)
2. Remove wrenches and mash the pedal to the floor.
3. The cable will self adjust.
But you're saying I should hold the sleeve while making the adjustment? I'm not sure what effect that should produce.
Long day but I got the water pump sealed up, and the bypass neck as well.
I have the cable coming through the firewall, through the gas pedal tab with grommet, about another inch of cable, then the black plastic tube/sleeve, and lastly the check ball.
The procedure is supposed to be:
1. Using a wrench and pliers, dislodge the check ball from the sleeve (mine came dislodged)
2. Remove wrenches and mash the pedal to the floor.
3. The cable will self adjust.
But you're saying I should hold the sleeve while making the adjustment? I'm not sure what effect that should produce.
Long day but I got the water pump sealed up, and the bypass neck as well.
Mr. Johnson
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 574
From: Cleveland Ohio
Push the sleeve/Tube against the pedal (not pressing on the pedal with your foot) Then Remove wrenches. Push the pedal to the floor. The counter-lever action of the pedal will then push it out to where it needs to be at WOT. Your foot is whats really doing the adjusting. Remember this is more of a signal or "switch" then a throttle design. Too long can never be a problem here only short... Now start that baby up!
Last edited by rjohnson442; Jun 27, 2014 at 06:56 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
Push the sleeve/Tube against the pedal (not pressing on the pedal with your foot) Then Remove wrenches. Push the pedal to the floor. The counter-lever action of the pedal will then push it out to where it needs to be at WOT. Your foot is whats really doing the adjusting. Remember this is more of a signal or "switch" then a throttle design. Too long can never be a problem here only short... Now start that baby up!
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