Cost of a manual swap in a 3rd gen cutlass?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old March 23rd, 2014, 11:07 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
404namenotfound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4
Cost of a manual swap in a 3rd gen cutlass?

I can't find a decent manual 3rd generation cutlass in my area in my budget. I'm not really surprised by that but it kind of sucks.

I do however have a M21 trans, shift linkage, shifter, and BOP bellhousing from another project. I'm thinking if the parts like the pedal assembly, cross member, flywheel, boring the crank for the pilot bushing, and clutch aren't too spendy I might just pick up a 350/auto. I can then spend some time picking up parts for that and do the heads, cam, intake, and exhaust on the 350 while its out.

I've built other Olds engines and I have an idea of what that's going to cost. Can anyone that has done a manual swap give me an idea of what I'm looking at?

That is temping because I can go pick up a running cutlass now and save up to make it better later assuming that's a realistic goal. I'm weary of an expensive build because I had to sell my last one half completed due to budget.

EDIT: Found a thread saying about 4k for a th400 to m22 swap, I don't know how much of that is the bellhousing and trans. Probably quite a lot figuring I've seen that combo go for $1,500 at swap meets, I also already have a shifter and shift linkage too. So that's $2500(which sounds high) for the trans swap and maybe another $1000-$1500 for a top end with better heads, a cam, lifters, headers, intake, and junkyard carb.

Last edited by 404namenotfound; March 23rd, 2014 at 01:04 PM.
404namenotfound is offline  
Old March 23rd, 2014, 02:05 PM
  #2  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 48,237
What exactly do you call a "3rd gen Cutlass"? First gen was the 61-63 cars, second was 64-67, which makes third gen the 68-72 cars. Or are you calling the 73-77 cars the third gen?

In any case, the biggest problem is getting the AT crank drilled for the pilot bearing. Second biggest is finding the clutch linkage. If you are referring to the 68-72 cars, that's easy. If you really mean the 73-77 cars, not so much.
joe_padavano is offline  
Old March 23rd, 2014, 02:29 PM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
404namenotfound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
What exactly do you call a "3rd gen Cutlass"? First gen was the 61-63 cars, second was 64-67, which makes third gen the 68-72 cars. Or are you calling the 73-77 cars the third gen?

In any case, the biggest problem is getting the AT crank drilled for the pilot bearing. Second biggest is finding the clutch linkage. If you are referring to the 68-72 cars, that's easy. If you really mean the 73-77 cars, not so much.
I'm talking about the 68-72, specifically a 71 I'm looking at, that's how Wikipedia has them broken up. I really didn't want to confuse people with how I define them with my friends...

I'm figuring I'll pull the engine when I do this so I am I correct in thinking I can pull the crank and drop it off at a decent machine shop and have them drill it?
404namenotfound is offline  
Old March 23rd, 2014, 02:34 PM
  #4  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 48,237
Originally Posted by 404namenotfound
I'm talking about the 68-72, specifically a 71 I'm looking at, that's how Wikipedia has them broken up. I really didn't want to confuse people with how I define them with my friends...
I'm surprised Wiki has it right - most people don't even remember the 61-63 cars.

I'm figuring I'll pull the engine when I do this so I am I correct in thinking I can pull the crank and drop it off at a decent machine shop and have them drill it?
Yes. Be sure to get the drawing of the correct dimensions elsewhere on this site. The 68-72 clutch linkage is easy to find used. There's one set for sale on this site currently, if it hasn't sold yet.
joe_padavano is offline  
Old March 23rd, 2014, 02:40 PM
  #5  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
404namenotfound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
I'm surprised Wiki has it right - most people don't even remember the 61-63 cars.
Wikipedia isn't all bad.


Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Yes. Be sure to get the drawing of the correct dimensions elsewhere on this site. The 68-72 clutch linkage is easy to find used. There's one set for sale on this site currently, if it hasn't sold yet.
Do you have any idea what the rest of the conversion generally costs? By the time I get a driveshaft, linkage, flywheel, clutch, cross member if I need to swap it etc? I could price It out based on the parts I guess go into it but I'm sure I'd forget lots of small stuff.
404namenotfound is offline  
Old March 23rd, 2014, 03:01 PM
  #6  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 48,237
Originally Posted by 404namenotfound
...parts like the pedal assembly, cross member, flywheel, boring the crank for the pilot bushing, and clutch...

Do you have any idea what the rest of the conversion generally costs? By the time I get a driveshaft, linkage, flywheel, clutch, cross member if I need to swap it etc? I could price It out based on the parts I guess go into it but I'm sure I'd forget lots of small stuff.
The crossmember is the same for all transmissions. The TH350 driveshaft will work, but MT driveshafts were one-piece from the factory whereas the AT driveshaft is two concentric tubes with rubber between them. Brand new steel flywheels are about $450 at Summit. Used OEM ones are much less. Clutch cost depends on what you want. Used clutch linkage and pedals run $100 or so. Be sure to get the tab that bolts to the frame for the outboard end of the Z-bar, and the ball fitting for the block. Also note that some 1972-up Olds blocks do not have the hole for the pivot ball drilled and tapped.
joe_padavano is offline  
Old March 23rd, 2014, 08:53 PM
  #7  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
404namenotfound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
The crossmember is the same for all transmissions. The TH350 driveshaft will work, but MT driveshafts were one-piece from the factory whereas the AT driveshaft is two concentric tubes with rubber between them. Brand new steel flywheels are about $450 at Summit. Used OEM ones are much less. Clutch cost depends on what you want. Used clutch linkage and pedals run $100 or so. Be sure to get the tab that bolts to the frame for the outboard end of the Z-bar, and the ball fitting for the block. Also note that some 1972-up Olds blocks do not have the hole for the pivot ball drilled and tapped.
Thanks a lot. Yeah the clutch depends on what I want and I actually have a heavy stock flywheel in my garage that I could resurface. I just priced it all out and looks like it might be like $1000, so maybe budget $1500 to be safe. That's not bad really given what I already have.

So I'll probably just pick up an auto and save up for this next.
404namenotfound is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
garys 68
Major Builds & Projects
354
February 1st, 2016 11:56 AM
lshlsh2
General Discussion
3
February 3rd, 2013 08:40 AM
sykosoft
Electrical
3
February 1st, 2012 07:22 PM
Don Cain
Eighty-Eight
0
March 26th, 2007 05:57 AM



Quick Reply: Cost of a manual swap in a 3rd gen cutlass?



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:04 PM.