Cost of a manual swap in a 3rd gen cutlass?
#1
Cost of a manual swap in a 3rd gen cutlass?
I can't find a decent manual 3rd generation cutlass in my area in my budget. I'm not really surprised by that but it kind of sucks.
I do however have a M21 trans, shift linkage, shifter, and BOP bellhousing from another project. I'm thinking if the parts like the pedal assembly, cross member, flywheel, boring the crank for the pilot bushing, and clutch aren't too spendy I might just pick up a 350/auto. I can then spend some time picking up parts for that and do the heads, cam, intake, and exhaust on the 350 while its out.
I've built other Olds engines and I have an idea of what that's going to cost. Can anyone that has done a manual swap give me an idea of what I'm looking at?
That is temping because I can go pick up a running cutlass now and save up to make it better later assuming that's a realistic goal. I'm weary of an expensive build because I had to sell my last one half completed due to budget.
EDIT: Found a thread saying about 4k for a th400 to m22 swap, I don't know how much of that is the bellhousing and trans. Probably quite a lot figuring I've seen that combo go for $1,500 at swap meets, I also already have a shifter and shift linkage too. So that's $2500(which sounds high) for the trans swap and maybe another $1000-$1500 for a top end with better heads, a cam, lifters, headers, intake, and junkyard carb.
I do however have a M21 trans, shift linkage, shifter, and BOP bellhousing from another project. I'm thinking if the parts like the pedal assembly, cross member, flywheel, boring the crank for the pilot bushing, and clutch aren't too spendy I might just pick up a 350/auto. I can then spend some time picking up parts for that and do the heads, cam, intake, and exhaust on the 350 while its out.
I've built other Olds engines and I have an idea of what that's going to cost. Can anyone that has done a manual swap give me an idea of what I'm looking at?
That is temping because I can go pick up a running cutlass now and save up to make it better later assuming that's a realistic goal. I'm weary of an expensive build because I had to sell my last one half completed due to budget.
EDIT: Found a thread saying about 4k for a th400 to m22 swap, I don't know how much of that is the bellhousing and trans. Probably quite a lot figuring I've seen that combo go for $1,500 at swap meets, I also already have a shifter and shift linkage too. So that's $2500(which sounds high) for the trans swap and maybe another $1000-$1500 for a top end with better heads, a cam, lifters, headers, intake, and junkyard carb.
Last edited by 404namenotfound; March 23rd, 2014 at 01:04 PM.
#2
What exactly do you call a "3rd gen Cutlass"? First gen was the 61-63 cars, second was 64-67, which makes third gen the 68-72 cars. Or are you calling the 73-77 cars the third gen?
In any case, the biggest problem is getting the AT crank drilled for the pilot bearing. Second biggest is finding the clutch linkage. If you are referring to the 68-72 cars, that's easy. If you really mean the 73-77 cars, not so much.
In any case, the biggest problem is getting the AT crank drilled for the pilot bearing. Second biggest is finding the clutch linkage. If you are referring to the 68-72 cars, that's easy. If you really mean the 73-77 cars, not so much.
#3
What exactly do you call a "3rd gen Cutlass"? First gen was the 61-63 cars, second was 64-67, which makes third gen the 68-72 cars. Or are you calling the 73-77 cars the third gen?
In any case, the biggest problem is getting the AT crank drilled for the pilot bearing. Second biggest is finding the clutch linkage. If you are referring to the 68-72 cars, that's easy. If you really mean the 73-77 cars, not so much.
In any case, the biggest problem is getting the AT crank drilled for the pilot bearing. Second biggest is finding the clutch linkage. If you are referring to the 68-72 cars, that's easy. If you really mean the 73-77 cars, not so much.
I'm figuring I'll pull the engine when I do this so I am I correct in thinking I can pull the crank and drop it off at a decent machine shop and have them drill it?
#4
I'm figuring I'll pull the engine when I do this so I am I correct in thinking I can pull the crank and drop it off at a decent machine shop and have them drill it?
#5
Do you have any idea what the rest of the conversion generally costs? By the time I get a driveshaft, linkage, flywheel, clutch, cross member if I need to swap it etc? I could price It out based on the parts I guess go into it but I'm sure I'd forget lots of small stuff.
#6
...parts like the pedal assembly, cross member, flywheel, boring the crank for the pilot bushing, and clutch...
Do you have any idea what the rest of the conversion generally costs? By the time I get a driveshaft, linkage, flywheel, clutch, cross member if I need to swap it etc? I could price It out based on the parts I guess go into it but I'm sure I'd forget lots of small stuff.
Do you have any idea what the rest of the conversion generally costs? By the time I get a driveshaft, linkage, flywheel, clutch, cross member if I need to swap it etc? I could price It out based on the parts I guess go into it but I'm sure I'd forget lots of small stuff.
#7
The crossmember is the same for all transmissions. The TH350 driveshaft will work, but MT driveshafts were one-piece from the factory whereas the AT driveshaft is two concentric tubes with rubber between them. Brand new steel flywheels are about $450 at Summit. Used OEM ones are much less. Clutch cost depends on what you want. Used clutch linkage and pedals run $100 or so. Be sure to get the tab that bolts to the frame for the outboard end of the Z-bar, and the ball fitting for the block. Also note that some 1972-up Olds blocks do not have the hole for the pivot ball drilled and tapped.
So I'll probably just pick up an auto and save up for this next.
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