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You are wanting to put a manual transmission on a 455 Oldsmobile engine? It's doubtful that your engines crankshaft is already machined for a pilot bearing and the snout of the manual transmissions main input shaft. The way with the best results is to pull the crankshaft and have it machined. If you don't want to pull the crankshaft Supercars Unlimited and other vendors have a bearing to fit the automatic crankshaft and/or you would drill a hole big enough for the transmissions "snout" or some cut off the snout. (I highly recommend you DO NOT do that.) I personally would pull the crankshaft but others have had success with drilling. Jmo.
What "Borg Warner"? Has the engine previously had a manual trans bolted to it? Kind of hard to provide a useful answer with the meager info you've provided.
It came out of an RV so no on having a manual attached to it its a BORG WARNER Super T-10 that I got from a guy that had it in a 55 chevy! I installed the pilot adapter bearing
1973 455 7.5L V8
It came out of an RV so no on having a manual attached to it its a BORG WARNER Super T-10 that I got from a guy that had it in a 55 chevy! I installed the pilot adapter bearing
1973 455 7.5L V8
Since the crank is not drilled, you either need to trim about 3/4" from the tip of the input shaft or you need to bore a clearance hole in the crank for it. Since you are using the adapter bearing, this hole does not need to be precise, it just needs to allow clearance for the input shaft.
Also, if your 73 block is an Fa casting (as opposed to an F casting), it won't have the hole for the pivot ball for the z-bar. You'll need to use a hydraulic throwout bearing.
Here's the threaded hole Joe was describing for the Z-bar. Although I though the early Fa blocks had this threaded. I've only had a couple without this and I thought they were both 1976 blocks. Let us know if any additional questions come up as your project progresses. John
This might be a coincidence but are you in N.E.Ohio? I talked to a guy at the Randolph swap meet about 3 weeks ago that was selling a super T10 out of a 55 Chevrolet that he bought. He said he changed to automatic because of his knees. Just curious.
This might be a coincidence but are you in N.E.Ohio? I talked to a guy at the Randolph swap meet about 3 weeks ago that was selling a super T10 out of a 55 Chevrolet that he bought. He said he changed to automatic because of his knees. Just curious.
No I am in Arizona but similar story on how I got the transmission
Here is another question, new to this so sorry for the newbie questions. Are the clutch forks that different, the measurements seem to come out the same from the fork I have off of the chevy or do i really need to get an oldsmobile fork, but speedway sells the fork that includes all of the manufactures gm, chevy, olds. Just wondering because i can't get the fingers on the pressure plate to release??
Yes the forks are different among C + BOP production.
I'm no expert on manual trans swaps. I did a search and few things come up often:
proper fork
proper install of clutch(not backwards)
adjustable pivot ball possibly needed
proper pedal free play adjustment
number of other misc. things.
I was hoping to find the pic in the CL database that shows the difference in the forks, but no such luck...yet.
Vendors such as the Parts Place, Inline Tube have correct clutch forks. Probably the Parts Place is the cheapest but some say their customer service might not give you that "warm and fuzzy feeling."