Adjusting your switch-pitch transmission
August 14th, 2016, 02:40 AM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 168
Adjusting your switch-pitch transmission
I thought I'd share what I did to get the proper adjustment on my throttle linkage without the vaguely referenced "test lamp" mentioned in the CSM. You know, for other people like me who are too ill-equipped and/or just plain lazy to rig up a test lamp for linkage adjustment.
I basically adapted the idea of listening for the click of the stator solenoid with the engine off, and substituted that sound for the glow of a test lamp. So simple that perhaps it's a no-brainer to some, but this is aimed at owners who are still relatively unfamiliar with the switch-pitch transmissions and are just interested in getting the linkage adjusted to factory specs. Of course, this assumes that you have a factory set-up and that everything is in working order and only needs to be adjusted. Make sure your timing, fuel/air mixture, curb idle speed, etc are already adjusted prior to this as well so you won't have to re-adjust the linkage.
1. Zero out the linkage so that it links up to the carburetor's throttle tab without pushing forward against it or pulling backward. Linkage should be connected to carburetor and secured.
2. If applicable (points/condenser people), it's a good idea to do what you must to deactivate the coil before proceeding so you can take your time without running the risk of burning your points.
3. Insert ignition key, turn to "Run" position without starting the engine. This energizes the linkage switch so you can listen for the click that indicates when the switch has deactivated the high-stall solenoid.
4. Begin slowly lengthening the linkage rod, and stop immediately when you hear the very audible solenoid "click" from within the transmission.*
5. As per CSM, shorten the linkage back down by two full turns on the adjusting nut so your idle is back in the high stall (solenoid on) position, and then secure the lock nut. Reconnect coil and take the car for a spin.
* If you hear no click at any point while lengthening the link rod, the solenoid is failing to change states and needs to be investigated.
I basically adapted the idea of listening for the click of the stator solenoid with the engine off, and substituted that sound for the glow of a test lamp. So simple that perhaps it's a no-brainer to some, but this is aimed at owners who are still relatively unfamiliar with the switch-pitch transmissions and are just interested in getting the linkage adjusted to factory specs. Of course, this assumes that you have a factory set-up and that everything is in working order and only needs to be adjusted. Make sure your timing, fuel/air mixture, curb idle speed, etc are already adjusted prior to this as well so you won't have to re-adjust the linkage.
1. Zero out the linkage so that it links up to the carburetor's throttle tab without pushing forward against it or pulling backward. Linkage should be connected to carburetor and secured.
2. If applicable (points/condenser people), it's a good idea to do what you must to deactivate the coil before proceeding so you can take your time without running the risk of burning your points.
3. Insert ignition key, turn to "Run" position without starting the engine. This energizes the linkage switch so you can listen for the click that indicates when the switch has deactivated the high-stall solenoid.
4. Begin slowly lengthening the linkage rod, and stop immediately when you hear the very audible solenoid "click" from within the transmission.*
5. As per CSM, shorten the linkage back down by two full turns on the adjusting nut so your idle is back in the high stall (solenoid on) position, and then secure the lock nut. Reconnect coil and take the car for a spin.
* If you hear no click at any point while lengthening the link rod, the solenoid is failing to change states and needs to be investigated.
Last edited by Supernaut72; August 15th, 2016 at 03:45 AM.
August 14th, 2016, 07:43 AM
#3
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Daphne, AL
Posts: 301
switch-pitch
If the solenoid is off (de-energized) wouldn't the convertor be in low stall? I thought the solenoid energized was high stall. 13" convertor is approx. 16-1800 low stall and 22-2400 high stall.
August 15th, 2016, 03:40 AM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 168
Good point Eric, I wouldn't think there's much of a chance that the linkage would fail to open the throttle blades entirely when it's adjusted how it's supposed to be, but always good to check for that.
About the solenoid, yes, you're right. Got a little mixed up. Think it was because I was going off of the test lamp method outlined in the CSM, which instructs you to lengthen the linkage "until the test lamp just comes on" before shortening the rod back down, without reference to which contact to connect the lamp to. Whoops!
About the solenoid, yes, you're right. Got a little mixed up. Think it was because I was going off of the test lamp method outlined in the CSM, which instructs you to lengthen the linkage "until the test lamp just comes on" before shortening the rod back down, without reference to which contact to connect the lamp to. Whoops!
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