it’s a 2 speed out of a 67 C/S. Has not run on engine power since 1991.
Things done to it
Filter replaced and outside cleaned along with new metal cooling lines to the radiator and a new radiator.
things I’m thinking about
1. using the two seals I bought for the front shaft and tail. .? The parts place store was iffy even if they are correct for the trans? And does the top seal box go to the input shaft?
2. Would like to flush the torque converter - ?dump fluid in and out a few times?
3. how to flush the trans?
4. the blue vacuum assist cylinder - is that part of the second to first gear kick down sequence when stopping?

thanks Brian

 

6712 is the correct seal for the front pump. Be sure the converter isn't scored where it rides in the pump seal.
9613 is the correct seal for the output shaft. Again, be sure the yoke isn't scored where it rides in the seal. In both case, use petroleum jelly or trans assembly goo to lubricate the lips of the seals before you install them. This helps prevent damage at dry startup.

Unless you think the trans is contaminated, just drain it, change the filter, and refill. This trans is supposed to use Type A trans fluid, which is difficult to find today. Dexron III works.

The blue cannister is the vacuum modulator. It controls upshifts based on manifold vacuum (which is an indicator of engine load). Higher vacuum means the throttle is nearly closed, so shifts come early. Low vacuum indicates wide open throttle, so the shifts come late. It has nothing to do with kickdown. The electric kickdown solenoid is inside the trans, bolted to the valve body. Your trans also has a switch pitch torque converter. These can wear out internally. Fatsco sells rebuilt switch pitch converters for about $104 exchange (that was the price three years ago, anyway).

 

Well it’s time to tackle changing the front and rear seals, any hands on guidance out there, help me prevent damage to the transmission?

 

That's easy. If you can't get the seal out, drill three small holes 120 deg apart in the metal part of the seal inboard of the trans case. Use grease to catch the chips. Screw sheet metal screws into the holes to use for pulling the seal out. For installation, cut a length of appropriate diameter PVC pipe and use that to hammer the new seals into place. Smear the lips of the new seals with trans assembly goo or petroleum jelly before installation.

 

Sounds like a great plan, thanks Joe

 

I suggest filling the backside of the seal with Vasoline before driving it in.

Reason number 1, it provides plenty of lubrication for the dry start.

Reason number 2 (and more importantly) occasionally driving the seal in will knock the spring out of the groove. It doesn’t happen often, but it sucks to see the tiny spring sitting on the input shaft after you remove the installation tool. There is no way to reinstall the spring, and no way to remove the seal without destroying it.

 

Well I initially tried using the drill method, got sad real quick. Then used a real small screw driver between the lip of the seal and the trans housing.
then looking around the garage I found these wonderful tools in plain sight. Yes it’s a paint can opener and and a door panel removal tool.
Just what I needed. Now, the process of going back in.
thanks for the help

 

Brian, Are you familiar with how to seat the converter on the front pump shafts before installing the transmission?

 

I’m going to try the three click method as I rotate the torque converter on the input shaft.
Prior to removing the transmission I measured the space between the torque converter bolt pads ( torque converter fully pushed into the trans housing) and flywheel. Then with trans pulled I measured the distance between the front plane of the bell housing to the torque converter bolt pads.
Then with the above measurements I hope she is fully inserted.

I will try the Vaseline method, can’t hurt?

 

Yes, fill the back of the seal cavity with vaseline and put some on the sealing edge.

 

Well the output shaft seal went in real easy with light taps with a ball pean hammer, the input seal not so much. Just could not get the initial lineup. But with some McGiver skillsI came up with the pictured “installer 2000”. Or stuff found in the backyard pile of scraps. But happy to say both seals are home and happy. Speaking of happy the torque converter (after lining up the converter shaft notches to the trans) slid rite into place. I thought after watching YouTube videos I would have to rotate it finding three different catches? But nope.
Thanks for the help