marlar98

Is there a 4-speed manual transmission made for olds that can live behind a 455 producing 600 lbs. of torque, or is the TKO 600 the only option?

I have a 69 olds cutlass project car that I'm building which was originally a 350 olds powered motor and a 4-speed manual transmission. The original engine and transmission are both gone. I thought about putting a stoutly built 200-4r behind the 455, but I wanted the fun factor of shifting gears manually. My motor is at the machine shop ready to be rebuilt. However, they cannot balance my rotating assembly until I decide on a manual or automatic transmission to either balance a flywheel or flexplate and install the pilot bearing in the crankshaft.

Also, the car currently has 3.08 gears in it which is fine for me since this will be mostly a street car. Any advice or input provided would be much appreciated.

z11375ss

I have the TKO. Used to have a Muncie M-20. I really like the TKO. Close ratio with an overdrive. I can take the car anywhere. IMO the 200 will have to be beefed to live behind that motor. I think the cost will be about the same except for the fact with the manual you already have the parts. You would have to buy additional parts if you went auto. I think this is a slam dunk in favor of the TKO.

marlar98

Hey I saw your your YouTube video of you cruising around having a little fun on the street with your best friend in the back seat. AWESOME! That's what I'm looking forward to!

You mind if I ask you a few questions on your TKO install?

garys 68

Autogear and other Muncie trans aftermarket suppliers have upgraded cases, midplates, gears, etc. They'll have info on ratings.
Note a lot of a trans rating is based on 1st gear. The higher numeric 1st gear number, the lower the rating.

Seff

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the 455 (and 350 for that matter) internally balanced? If it is, they SHOULD be able to balance your engine without the flywheel/flexplate.

Professur

Is there any reason to stick with the old? Why not step up to a nice modern 6sp. Plenty of choices out there.

marlar98

What options are there?

I'm leaning towards the TKO 600. The only thing that I have for the transmission is the clutch pedal assembly and the crossmember. I have a few questions for anyone who's willing to help:

What should I do to the crankshaft to accept a manual transmission. It's an automatic crankshaft? I know they make a pilot bearing that you can press inside the crankshaft to accept a manual transmission, but I've searched and read bad things about the bearing spinning or coming apart.

What flywheel should I get? I saw one from PRW that seems reasonably priced.

What clutch/pressure plate for street application would you guys recommend?

And finally, are any of you in the KC metro area?

Seff

He's a thread, with drawings, pertaining to drilling the crank for a manual transmission: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-question.html

Run to Rund

Both engines are externally balanced, but with differing counterweighting on the damper and flywheel; 64-7 is one type, 68-up the other. Jerico with road race sliders will hold up and you can get up to 3.29 first ratio.

dc2x4drvr

I pulled an Autogear cased M20 and replaced it with a Keisler SS700 5 speed. The SS doesn't require any cutting of the floor, it's pretty much a drop in deal.

marlar98

Since the 455 is externally balanced, I can have my current rotating assembly w/ flexplate balanced and later down the line get the flywheel balanced just like the flexplate?

ccdriver

This really always boils down to the use and desires of the owner.A muncie is a worthy trans if you don't really have a great set of tires that get a good hook-up.in other words,when power is excessive,somethings gotta give.Your differential ratio is way to low for a Muncie.a great combo is a M-20 and a 3.36 or 3.55.lots of curb pullaway and decent fuel millage.nothing quite like grabbing a gear!this is strictly old school talking.by the way,be aware that the Olds crank is not factory drilled for a manual trans pilot and must be done if you are going to use a manual.your crank blueprinter can do this.

gregvm

I've had a TKO-600(.64 overdrive) in my '68 for 3 years now.....No complaints. runs like a swiss watch. Yes you have to cut the trans tunnel(at least I did to keep proper driveshaft angle) I went with the hydraulic clutch release and couldn't be happier.
Get the crank drilled properly for the pilot bearing....just in case.

I'm running 3.73's on my 468 and it gets 15+ mpg hwy in OD.

Food for thought

I am wary about that SS700 trans.....no feedback on it yet

z11375ss

X2. I am pleased as punch with my TKO 5 speed. 2100rpm at 70. Perfect!

marlar98

So tell me exactly what I need to do about the crankshaft. I have a nodular iron "CN" stamped crank. Should I get the bronze bushing or a roller bearing? The issue or issues that must be addressed is the depth of the relief area in the back o the crankshaft so the input shaft of the transmission doesn't bottom out and installing the bearing or bushing in the back of the crankshaft, right?

I think I get the depth issue. Drill about 1/2" into the back is the crank. However, does the bushing/bearing just press into the back of the crank or is there machining that need to be done for the bearing/bushing to fit? Also, I've heard there were auto crankshafts that were machined to receive the pilot bearing/bushing. Is this true or myth?

ccdriver

I'm no expert.I was trying to make you aware of the need to take care of this.some things I do know are 1.You can run either a bushing or a bearing but whtever Olds did is how I would do it.Check with a parts store and find what they show as the application.that will give you the info.2 To determine the depth you can attach your bellhousing.measure from the matting surface to the center of the crank.I would imagine you'll have a distance that is just about the lenght of the transmission snout to the end of the splines.the pilot snout will be the additional depth into the crank.In my experience,the bearing/bushing have always been a slight interference fit in the crank.By the way I do know Pontiac runs a bearing and Chevy has run a bronze bushing.you may find the pilot hole in an auto crank but it is unlikely.once again I'm just trying to get you in the right direction.I'm sure there are some people in the club who have hands on knowledge.Good Luck