Put the lock-up on a 4th gear pressure switch, wire it thru the brake switch, and put a extra dimmer switch on the floorboard. That way it will only lock in 4th gear, it will unlock when you get on the brakes, and can easily be locked and un-locked with your foot. Save your money with the aftermarket kits.

 

Is Bowler Performance Transmissions better than Extreme Automatics if so why?

 

A word to the wise - spamming the same question by hijacking multiple threads is not the best way to get a good answer. I suggest you simply start a new thread with the question you want answered. You'll probably get your answer more quickly that way.

 

I have a 200r4 in my 1985 Cutlass. I can not manually shift into low gear , the linkage hits or bottoms out on the detents like others have said. Every thing else lines up and shifts ok. I bought a B&M pro-shifter for the car with a 4 position plate but never installed it. I just leave the car in "D"rive. I had a shop in Rhode Island build it for me. This car has a 455 and I have not hurt the transmission yet. It burns the tires in 2nd gear and chirps 3rd.

I just had another transmission built by the same guy. I won't be using the ECM in my 1986 that it is going in, so the trans guy marked the factory plug on the transmission for me. He told me to hook this wire to 12 volt via a toggle switch when I want lock-up. Will be putting in car this winter so I won't know how it works until spring. This one will be behind a 403 ( 30 over = 409) 2.41 gears from a 1987 grand prix