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Hey all,
I picked up a rebuilt 2004r transmission to put into my 72 cutlass, its supposedly a bowtie overdrives level 2 2004r that was purchased and installed but never run.
Looking it over i saw this under the torque converter seal:
my question is should this be there? Is there a port opening on that ring or should it be solid all the way around?
I did pull the pan and inspect it and no debris or anything, and the torque converter looks good.
The later pumps had a lip machined into the front of the pump bushing bore to prevent the bushing from moving forward in the pump housing. The oversized drain hole isn’t a bad idea, I wouldn’t be very happy with the quality of that hole. Looks like they used a dull drill! Pop out the deal, make sure there are no chips or drill shavings that may have come loose, or COULD come loose in the future. Pack the backside of the seal with Vasoline, that will prevent the spring getting knocked out driving the seal in place. Lastly, install a front seal retainer from a 4L60 trans. Good luck!!
Well thats a relief, i think i will take the seal out and clean it up.
I will look into that seal retainer as well.
What kind of transmission fluid should i use in this? Is there any kind of break in lube or procedure besides the tv cable adjustment?
Aluminum sheetmetal deep pan. Full billet and full roller transmission. 700r4 Filter bottom drawn Stock pan with CK performance spacer and using 700r4 filter Chrysler fiiter
Here are some photos - transmission fluid matters, but try to run something other than stock pan unless this is just a stock daily.
I use dextron 6 few quarts and then rest with John Deere hy guard tractor fluid. If it’s just a daily driver use the dextron 6. I know not everyone is on board with the hy guard, but works.
The 200r4 likes a big pan on it - Hughes or the ones from mycovers.com. I run a big pan and B&m super cooler as well. Deepest you can run for ground clearance
I would pull the pan and take a look anyway. Good way to look and see what is inside.
Ok the hughes pan seems pretty reasonable, $220 with the hardware, gasket and 700r4 filter shipped.
I pulled the pan and it looks like it may have had some water get into it, im thinking it got into it thru the dipstick hole, the cap was cracked and it supposdly sat under a car for a long time, it had about a half quart of milky looking oil, everything looks ok except for the filter, pan and steel tube that runs accross the bottom of the pan, they are tarnished.
Is there a inexpensive oil i can use when i break it in/clean it out? then change it?
AutoZone occasionally has Valvoline synthetic ATF on sale for 24 bucks a gallon. Unless you can find something cheaper, that’s the way I would go. Put the cheap stuff in it, run it a while, drain the fluid, change the filter, hopefully that is the last time you get trans fluid in your hair for a long lime. Goodluck
I always used the 4L60E shallow filter and a Hughes pan that always leaked no matter what I tried. I am really liking the tractor hydraulic fluid mixed with a couple of liters of Type F in my TH350C. I haven't add a drop since install using the thicker 10W30 fluid vs Dexron which is more like a 10 weight.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; June 3rd, 2019 at 09:26 PM.
No used different gaskets and on 3 different 2004R's. I actually had used Ultra Black RTV on the pan side with the fiber gasket and let it set up. Still seeped.
No used different gaskets and on 3 different 2004R's. I actually had used Ultra Black RTV on the pan side with the fiber gasket and let it set up. Still seeped.
Well shucks, to keep the language down. I know one of the Holley Street Demons has a tiny hole in its plastic body that seeped out a little gas. Maybe a tiny hole in it, like that existed when the pan was cast/made. Might just be porous though. I know right now they seem to be out of stock, but they may have more this month. I got one on order from Jegs when they were running a 20% off sale. If it comes in I will certainly do some testing before installing it.
It may have been just bad luck on my part. I will probably either run the CK spacer or see if the 4L60E filter will fit the stock pan with an extra gasket. Right now this the second 2004R leaking at the selector shaft seal. And yes changed that and every other seal that could look like a leaky pan.
Sorry guys I have one more question on these, I was doing one last inspection and I'm questioning the clutches, they look new to me, but it looks like there is one friction pad missing, I can easily move the discs with my finger, and the last one looks like it's a steel disc on a steel disc, I count 6 friction pads, 8 steel discs, see picture, can anyone verify this?
That is low reverse. Air test it ~ valve body out and see if the low reverse locks them in place with air. That looks normal to me
thanks I'll try that, I got the hughs deep pan with 4l60 filter and a b&m supercooler, I'm going to replace the external seals and try and clean out the tail shaft housing, it was left open and sat outside for years, all the internal parts look clean and lubricated though,
Does anyone know of a good assembly/repair manual for the 2004r?
I'm pretty familiar with hydraulics and gears (forklifts) but have never dealt with automatic transmissions.
thanks I'll try that, I got the hughs deep pan with 4l60 filter and a b&m supercooler, I'm going to replace the external seals and try and clean out the tail shaft housing, it was left open and sat outside for years, all the internal parts look clean and lubricated though,
Does anyone know of a good assembly/repair manual for the 2004r?
I'm pretty familiar with hydraulics and gears (forklifts) but have never dealt with automatic transmissions.
Get the DVD off of eBay. Basic enough and pretty good. CK performance sells a manual and I have that too - just very deep into modifications and things. I have the Atsg book too. Pretty much can answer most things as have one on the bench now
May 29th, 2019, 08:00 PM
