Doing the C K build and it says on the direct it should measure between .030-.065
I have .080 and was wondering how to tighten this up or if I really even need to? I know it can't be crazy loose..
Also I've measured it with feeler gauges but is measuring it with a dial gauge better cause I have a hard time getting around that spring in the middle..forgot what the spring is called, still learning.. Thanks for any input

 

Disclaimer: I’m not a professional, just a shadetree with a few rebuilds under my belt, but for me 0.020 beyond the upper spec is too much. Direct is a shifting clutch to third, fourth and reverse - too much clearance will cause slip and generate excess heat during shifts. Rule of thumb is 0.010/friction - so that’s 0.060 for the direct stack (unless you modded it). Seems like a lot of builders like it to be a bit tighter than that for performance builds, CK included. Measure the pressure plate (they were selective from the factory I believe) if it’s < 0.180 you can buy one from CK to take up some of the play, or you can try and find a used one that’s bigger (good luck).You can also swap between direct and forward steels: if I recall forwards are about 0.015 - 0.020 thinner. Then make up the difference with a seventh steel in the middle of the stack. It may be possible to Use a different thickness snap ring, but I’m not aware of which one might work. You might just have to get creative.

 

Ok so I need to get this clearance down some and those are great suggestions.
Is it possible to stack 2 steels back to back? Called the local trans shop and they've got some .060 steels but they're not kolene steels and I'm using kolene steels. Was wondering if using these regular steels would mess up anything to get the clearance right.. Scratching my head on this one..

 

I remember reading in the CK manual (or maybe Cris told me) that you shouldn’t mix kolene and regular steels, but I can’t tell you why or anything else about it. Hopefully someone can chime in.

What did your pressure/backing plate measure?

 

If you have to stack steels, either put one on top of the piston (in this case it obviously wouldn’t matter if it’s a Kolene steel or not, it’s just taking up space) or put the two steels in the middle of the clutch pack. The theory behind putting them in the middle is to absorb heat.

 

Ok I was able to figure it out with swapping the steels and plates around, about time...
Direct has all thicker Kolene steels but I had to swap one thinner steel with the forward and that, along with swapping the plates, has gave me a much better clearance. So I won't be mixing or stacking odd steels which is great.
Got a question on rear end play. First of all where do you get the selective washer at? Secondly while I have everything stacked up should I push down on the assembly to read clearance with the feeler gauge or just leave it alone and see what I can fit without forcefully moving anything?
I have around .007 but I need to get down to .004 or tighter.

 

What size washer sre you using now, I have some spares I can look thru and see if that would help

 

I have the yellow washer now. Don't have the manual with me right now but I think I was going to need the brown, green or red? Whichever one was 3 or 4 steps up... Thanks for checking. I'll pay you whatever you think they're worth..

 

Have you measured the thickness of the washer you have? Each washer is about .007 larger as they go up I need to know the exact measurement so I can see if I have on that is .003 to .004 larger.You may also have to do what I did is go down one size of washer and add a shim to get the end play correct.
The ATSG manual show the #3 yellow washer to be between .128 to .133 thick

 

I added a shim and got the end play correct so that's taken care of...
Now I'm setting up the center section end play and I have a question. According to ck instructions you remove all clutches from the direct and forward, leave the washers and take your measurements.
Do you still need to have the rear section supported or does it matter? I put the snap ring in and selective and took off the support. Took my measurements and got .9300 - .9225 = .0075.
I'm using the #4 washer.
Originally there was a #10 washer inserted.
That's a far cry from what was in there so hopefully I got it right..
Anybody else have a different approach or should this be on the money or not? Thanks

 

As long as all the weight is sitting on the output shaft you should be fine. The fancy Kent Moore tool shown in the manual is designed to eliminate all the free play from parts hanging in the case. CK method seems idiot proof, I’m not sure why HydraMatic didn’t specify measuring things like he does. I guess his way doesn’t make any money selling special tools!