smparr

I have a 1990 Olds Custom Cruiser with an Olds 307 V8 and 200-4r tranny with 107K miles on it. When medium to hard accelerating the tranny seems to lightly stutter and not want to shift from OD to 3rd. It has to be floored to get it to shift at that point. When in just Drive it has no problems. I bought it last month and plan to change the fluid and see if it helps but I wanted to see if anyone else had experience with this issue. I also have a '91 Olds CC with the Chevy powertrain (305 TBI V8 and 700R4/4L60) that shuddered when I got it but it was more like hitting a giant pothole. Fluid change and Shudderfix stopped that. This is no where near that violent, in fact it's pretty tame. Feels like when the carb's mixture is out of adjustment but I can make it stop by not using OD. The only other issue it had when I got it was the previous owner removed the ECM and Anti-diesel solenoid fuses causing an SES Light. I put them back and now she's smooth and the light is gone. Actually went form 8 to 14 city MPG. I don't think they are related but who knows. Any experience would be greatly appreciated.

matt69olds

You may have a lazy TCC solenoid. Make sure when you floor the throttle the carb is actually going to WOT. The ECM needs to see a accurate TPS to lock and unlock the converter

smparr

We serviced it today and found this in the bottom.

RetroRanger

That was in the trans pan? It looks like roller bearings?

matt69olds

Looks like the remains of a roller clutch. Whatever it is, it’s not going to be fixed without transmission removal and a autopsy!

smparr

How soon before certain death? It only has that hesitation but otherwise runs fine.

matt69olds

I wouldn’t drive it again, it’s not going to get better! The more you drive it, the more the shrapnel will be circulated.

adis

Having just rebuilt my 2004r I would say that is what’s left of the roller assembly if your OD clutch. During 4-3 downshifts, it is supposed to be holding. This is way above my understanding, but according to the CK manual, you can accomplish a “modulated” 4-3 down shift by depressing the Throttle enough to allow one if the valves (MTV down) to force the downshift. Might be what your seeing. Again, way beyond my understanding. Regardless, if you drive that vehicle any more you risk doing serious damage to other parts of the trans, and I can tell you from recent personal experience that parts for the 2004R are getting hard to find.

olds 307 and 403

What parts are getting hard to find out of curiosity?

adis

im not a professional, this is just my experience from the past several months building my 2004R (it’s been my virus project).

I did the 3-friction upgrade to the OD clutch which requires cutting the piston down. I sent mine out to be machined and it got bent during shipping, I tried to find another one (Posted in the parts wanted on this site and the Turbo Buick sites) and it took several weeks before i was able to find one (actually Cris at CK found it.)

selective parts are also hard to find. You can only get 0.180 direct pressure plates or try to find used ones to machine down - nothing you can do if you need to go larger except fiddle with combinations of steels.

you can also only get certain sizes of selective pump/OD thrust washers - I think 0.196 is as big as I could find (needed 0.204 to get recommended end play, which makes a difference when total front end play should be 0.003-0.006).

im currently trying to find a dipstick/fill tube. None to be found, have to modify a th350 (I think you can do this) or use an aftermarket, which I’ve been reading have fitment problems (can’t confirm).

As far as bushings go, CK also recommends not replacing them if not out of spec “...due to the discontinuation of OEM replacements and poor fitment of aftermarket replacements...” Granted, it makes sense not to replace a part that is within spec, but a lot of times it makes sense to replace these worn but “in spec” items during servicing to reset the life of the wear item. Again, just demonstrates some of the things that you have to take into account when rebuilding this particular trans.

generally speaking, if you rebuild a th350 or 400 you can do a search on any number of sites (incl EBay) and find no lack of new or used hard parts and wear items. Not as as much with the 2004R.

olds 307 and 403

Interesting. I have 3 2004R'S, two working, one with a toasted 3/4 clutch pack. I could probably get another couple of cores if need be. Good to know and I know cores are getting harder to find, I am lucky in that department.

matt69olds

there is no 3-4 clutch in a 2004R. There is a direct clutch, and a overdrive clutch. Most likely the direct clutch is cooked if it has no 3rd gear. The 700/4L60 trans DOES use a 3-4 clutch, it’s been a weak point since the trans started production in 1984.

olds 307 and 403

My bad, haven't looked at the exploited of a 2004R in a long time. I need to read my CK manual, think I will make time. Yeah, my daughter ran it low, no 3rd or 4th. I blew the 3-4 clutch pack on our 03 work truck. My 94 4L60E had the dreaded weak reverse. A GM reman, towed without a remote cooler. I have blown up 2 other 2004R'S, only low in one after the converter imploded. I took out OD and reverse in the other.

smparr

We ordered a reman from Art Carr's California Performance Transmission, they had a more street version instead of a modified performance version like Extreme Automatics. Most of the places around here will swap them but not rebuild a 200-4R, too uncommon, and not enough experience with them. Thanks for the help.

olds 307 and 403

At least it is a shop known for their 2004R. One thing he does, which I question on mild builds is the elimination of the lock up converter. Hopefully the trans they did for you has lock up.

smparr

I specifically asked for the lock-up converter.

smparr

It shipped today, supposed to be at the shop on the 17th.

smparr

Have the car back now after sending it back to be readjusted. When it first came home it shifted super hard. I contacted Art and he and my installer talked through the adjustments and it shifts more firmly than the original but not jarring like the first time I brought it home a couple weeks ago. The long leg was fixing the damn passenger side valve cover leak, they kept replacing the gasket with a rubber gasket but it would still leak. They finally used an old fashioned cork gasket and now the leak has stopped, weird. It seems to slow idle higher than before though. I could feel it idling fast and when i opened the hood it was louder. I checked and the choke is all the way open. Can adjusting the TVC affect idle speed? It has the E4MC CCC Carb. Is the slow idle still a screw on the driver's side?

matt69olds

There is a detailed procedure to set minimum idle speed on some of the CCC 307 engines. It probably has the steps printed on the underhood emissions decal.

the 307 with the idle load compensator used the idle speed screw to set the minimum throttle speed, and then your suppose to set the curb idle with the load compensator. The theory with the ILC is that it automatically maintains idle speed with the A/C compressor on and off, power steering load, etc. Basically a primitive IAC valve

matt69olds

To answer your question, anything that holds the TV cable tighter than needed can cause a hard shift. Make sure the throttle opens fully at the carb with the gas pedal. If the throttle won’t open fully, when you push the pedal to the floor to set the TV cable it won’t pull the TV cable out fully.

smparr

It seems to have settled down some on its own. I cleaned some of the linkage but I caused an intermittent TPS code 21 when I sprayed it with carb cleaner. All clear now.

matt69olds

Sounds like maybe the throttle didn’t want to return to idle, or the TPS was sticking. The TPS is inside the carb, actuated by the accelerator pump pivot.