1972 TH350 need input
#1
1972 TH350 need input
I have a pretty stock 72 442 with a 350 and a turbo 350. I am finishing a six year resto that I bought non-running from a PO (I.e.- not sure how it did or did not perform before i started), gears are cruisers, I think 2.73. Here is my problem, when I get on the gas- the car seems like the ebrake is on or something...it isn't and all the wheels spin freely, but it is like it needs more rpm than you would think to get it going. It also shifts pretty high from second to third. I checked the fluid levels and they look right. Once i get to cruising speed20,30,40,50, etc, then all is good I bench carried in the tranny when it was apart and had it gone through, etc but suspect the PO may have some type of excessive stall converter installed. I am not a trans expert and just looking for some solid starting points before I take off in the wrong direction. Thanks as always, Joe
#2
Can you give more description as to what the issue is? What you posted doesn't make any sense to me.
#5
Sorry for the confusion. The car starts to move immediately, say 800-1000 rpm. As soon as I put it in drive, you can feel the trans engage. But when I try to push some acceleration, it almost feels like if it was a manual tranny I would have the clutch pushed in a bit, or the clutch would be worn out. I realize comparing an auto tranny to a manual is odd, but it is the only way I can describe how the car is acting.
The car shifts fine...just stays in second along time before going into drive- didn't know if that was related or not, so I thought I would mention it.
The car shifts fine...just stays in second along time before going into drive- didn't know if that was related or not, so I thought I would mention it.
#6
More clarification...when I take off, it is fine. The proble occurs when I want to go say from 10mph to 30mph, etc. this is where it just feels like something is messed up as described in the above response. Thanks, joe
#7
At what speeds is it shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 under normal acceleration? Are you saying it shifts too late or it feels like its slipping? Does it down shift at WOT.
Is your fluid at the correct level when checked warmed up, with the engine running, in park? Is it a pretty red color or turning brownish?
Is your fluid at the correct level when checked warmed up, with the engine running, in park? Is it a pretty red color or turning brownish?
#8
Under normal driving, it goes into second fine around 10-20MPH, no wining on engine at all. Under normal driving, to go to 3rd, the engine is like 3,000RPM+ and going 30-40MPH. If I let off the gas a bit, it will go right into 3rd. In park, running and warm, I have red fluid at the full level. It downshifts fine if I go to WOT. Given a 6+year resto, is it possible the clutches in the tranny have dried out? I had the trans out of the car and sitting on a bench for 5+ years. On the torque converter I know I kept fluid in it, but on the trans, I had drained the fluid when I redid all the seals and didn't add fluid back in until I started it all up last month.
Thanks, Joe
Thanks, Joe
#9
When you had the trans out did you change the filter? Couple of things to check. Make sure your modulator is not leaking by removing the rubber line and seeing if it has trans fluid in it. Also ensure the rubber line to the trans and to the engine side is good and not leaking. It should be connected to a manifold vacuum source. Make sure your kickdown cable is adjusted properly. If the first 2 are ok, then you need to check then check the governor to make sure all the parts move freely and the gear is not worn. This basically entails the removal of the cover and sliding the assy out for inspection.
#10
Eric,
Will check tonight. But to answer what I can now, the filter is new, the modulator is new (but I will check for a leak just the same to make sure). All my lines etc. are new, but I will check to make sure the "90 degree" hose down at the modulator hasn't wiggled or bumped off. If all this looks good I will check the governor and report back.
Thanks again,
Joe
Will check tonight. But to answer what I can now, the filter is new, the modulator is new (but I will check for a leak just the same to make sure). All my lines etc. are new, but I will check to make sure the "90 degree" hose down at the modulator hasn't wiggled or bumped off. If all this looks good I will check the governor and report back.
Thanks again,
Joe
#11
if it sat for 6 years you could possibly have an internal leak on the piston seals possibly , a cross leak too . if all the simple things check out like the gov. , the modulator , fluid lines etc etc. Your next approach is to get a pressure gauge and check the pressure taps to see what the pressure is . The procedures are in the chassis manual.
The modlator also needs to be adjusted if its an adjustable one.
The modlator also needs to be adjusted if its an adjustable one.
#15
Saturday update
Here is where I am. Believe it or not, I drained a quart of fluid and added a quart of Lucas oil trans conditioner. Huge improvement, but...reverse, first and second all feel fine. As soon as I hit drive, the trans makes a sound like a drum brake would make if the e-brake was partially on. I put it on jack stands with a make **** stethoscope on the diff. All good there.
I put the shifter in r, 1 or 2 all good- no noise at all. AS SOON AS I Let it shift into drive then no Good with a draggingor rubbing noise. Almost sounds like metal on metal. Back to the trans shop on Monday unless there are any opinions. I checked everything above A to Z as suggested.
Thanks again for all the support.
Joe
I put the shifter in r, 1 or 2 all good- no noise at all. AS SOON AS I Let it shift into drive then no Good with a draggingor rubbing noise. Almost sounds like metal on metal. Back to the trans shop on Monday unless there are any opinions. I checked everything above A to Z as suggested.
Thanks again for all the support.
Joe
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May 24th, 2010 08:15 PM