Hello,

I own a cutlass and I'm looking for options to replace the factory 2 speed automatic transmission. Is there a over drive transmission that will bolt to my bolt pattern without having to buy adaptors? I know the 200r4 might but not sure if the length is close to the factory transmission as I would like to keep the driveshaft stock just incase I decide to go back to stock as it's a numbers matching car now. Thanks

 

The 200-4R is nearly a bolt-in. It is the same overall length as the ST300 so your stock driveshaft fits right in without modification. The 200-4R does require the transmission crossmember to be moved back to the TH400 position, but your frame is already drilled for that. Unfortunately, moving the crossmember requires you to change the front and intermediate e-brake cables since they hang off the crossmember. Use the TH400 cables for your year. The other issues are the throttle valve cable - use the cable and carb bracket off a 307 - and the converter lockup wiring. There are several aftermarket converter lockup kits available.

Of course, you are aware that a stock 200-4R is marginal as far as strength is concerned. You should definitely get one built to handle your engine.

 

I know that a 700r4 would need an adaptor to mount it. i was wondering if it's the same length as the 200r4 or is it longer? also is parts better then the 200r4 such as performance parts or are they close to the same in after market parts to make them just as strong? What would I need to make a 200r4 stand up to the abuse of my engine? Thanks

 

Joe-how 'marginal' is the stock 200r4? Would it hold up to a stock small block? Or are the internals really that wimpy? Thanks. ---bil

 

I've blown up two stockers behind a pavement-ripping VIN Y 307 (140 HP on a good day). You can understand my skepticism.


The 700R4 is both longer overall (2" longer than a short-tail TH400, meaning a custom driveshaft) and requires the trans crossmember to be located in a position between the TH350 and TH400 positions (additional holes must be drilled in the frame). Neither the 200-4R nor the 700R4 are strong enough in stock form. The Turbo Buick community has found and fixed all the weak points in the 200-4R. One source for upgraded parts is here:

http://www.ckperformance.com/resourc...SMISSIONS.html

 

The 2004r is the way to go in my opinion. The internal hard parts are the same in grandmas Cadillac as they are in a Turbo Buick. The big difference is the trans calibration (valve body, Governor, and servo). If you have a good 2004r the cheapest/easiest way to upgrade is a package calibration kit from CK or other vendor. Spend a little time on the Buick forums, those guys have the 2004r figured out.

 

If using the 200 4 R in a 68 F85 originally having the Jetaway, does anyone make the necessary parts to continue to use the column shift for a factory appearance? What about the detends and shift pattern indicator in the dash? I'm most likely using CK Performance transmission.

Thanks for your help,

 

http://shiftworks.com/

 

good info. thank you Vern H.

 

Shiftworks does not make a kit to replace the shift quadrant inside the steering column. You will only be able to manually access OD and D with the column shifter.

 

Thanks Joe. I'll check with CK Performance Transmissions. Maybe they'll know of a source.

 

i have the oz 200r4 from a 84 h/o with cable and converter.i will let it go for $350 plus the shipping. or make me a fair offer. i am in south western pa 15301/(724)986 3690

 

Thanks, for asking the question. I didnt know the 200r4 was so weak stock. I thought about the conversion myself and learned alot of answers.

 

I have a CK billet 2004R trans in my 68 cutlass convertible behind a 455. I highly recommend one. It has one full summer of abuse on it and runs perfectly.

 

Chris at CK is a stand-up guy, and he certainly is one of the top 5 2004R builders in the country. I strongly recommend him.

Stock 2004Rs and 700s are junk, period. Even in the lo-po stuff they were put in from the factory they didn't last long. When built, regardless of all the stories you hear, anything more than 500 ftlbs of torque is going to be a crap shoot at best. Even the 'pro builders' of the 2004R are now advising against using them in performance applications, and it was Chris at CK who suggested I go to a 4L80E. The '1000HP' stuff you hear is plain BS, and the big-name guys will even tell you that. The 4L60E is nothing more than a newer, computer controlled 700, so might as well stay away from there too.

The hot ticket is the 4L80E/4L85E. Most complain that you have to have a 'computer', which boosts the cost. True, but they have come down in price, and the total project is still the same or less than doing a built 2004R. The only real drawback to the 4L80E/4L85E is the weight, being like 80 lbs heavier than a TH400. Other than that, it's all positive when it comes to the swap. You can hammer on this trans without worry, believe me, I know. I went through a beef BTO 2004R, sent it back twice, did everything right, and it just won't hold up. Even if it were built by one of the 'top 5', the length of time it lasts is much less than a TH400 or 4L80E. Period. All the turbo Buick guys that race and have '9 second cars' behind their' 2004Rs go through those trans's every year or so. Now G-Force even makes a conversion crossmember for the 4L80E, making the swap even easier.

If you're curious as to what's involved in the swap, on the PY site I documented the swap into my 71 LeMans, can take a look with the link provided. I also did a cost comparison to a 200, since I had just went down that path.

http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...=4l80e+install

.

 

Thanks to all for the advice and options available on my project. Certainly there are things to consider. I have not yet nailed down the power range of my engine build. But will have that settled soon. That will help determine the choice of transmission. Shows how people on this forum can benefit from the experience of others.

This is great information and opens up a lot more choices.