1968 442 M-21 4-speed upgrades??
#1
1968 442 M-21 4-speed upgrades??
Looking to refurbish my 53 year old M-21 as the clutch bearing appears to be going (Making wining sound when pedal is release and "alt" light comes up like something is grounded for 1-2 seconds).
Looking at: *New flywheel (possibly light weight steel).
*Ram dual clutch
*Hydraulic throughout bearing and master cylinder
*New pressure plate
Anyone have any suggestions on what worked well/reliable with the Olds BB and M-21s?
Thank you,
Chad
Looking at: *New flywheel (possibly light weight steel).
*Ram dual clutch
*Hydraulic throughout bearing and master cylinder
*New pressure plate
Anyone have any suggestions on what worked well/reliable with the Olds BB and M-21s?
Thank you,
Chad
#2
Chad ,are you sure there isn't something going wrong with the alternator or voltage regulator or a loose belt? just asking. anyway in my opinion you are over thinking this and unless you are racing your car or your engine is well over 450 horse none of what you want to do is necessary ,and I have never had a throwout bearing make a whining noise on any of my 4 speed cars but it is easy to replace and by all means while you are in there replace the clutch/pressure plate and flywheel if needed with a quality set and you will have no issues for many years. the factory setup works flawless in both of my 68's I drive and I have had zero problems or issues with my driver that I have been driving for 14 years now with a Weber clutch set behind a rebuilt 68 455 H/O engine and I do drive it hard and my project 68 is also a 4 speed and I will keep the factory setup on it also. the best clutches I have had are the Weber and Mcleod that performed and lasted and I will continue to use them.if you can't tell I like my 68's ,good luck with your 68
#5
Chad ,are you sure there isn't something going wrong with the alternator or voltage regulator or a loose belt? just asking. anyway in my opinion you are over thinking this and unless you are racing your car or your engine is well over 450 horse none of what you want to do is necessary ,and I have never had a throwout bearing make a whining noise on any of my 4 speed cars but it is easy to replace and by all means while you are in there replace the clutch/pressure plate and flywheel if needed with a quality set and you will have no issues for many years. the factory setup works flawless in both of my 68's I drive and I have had zero problems or issues with my driver that I have been driving for 14 years now with a Weber clutch set behind a rebuilt 68 455 H/O engine and I do drive it hard and my project 68 is also a 4 speed and I will keep the factory setup on it also. the best clutches I have had are the Weber and Mcleod that performed and lasted and I will continue to use them.if you can't tell I like my 68's ,good luck with your 68
#6
#7
The M-21 (2.20/1 1st gear) is fine with the 3.91 rear gear. The M-20 trans has a 2.52/1 1st gear. The changeout from M-21 to M-20 or visa-versa is accomplished by changing the input shaft (4th gear) and the accompanying counter gear. Now here is the rub....gear changes (percentage of drop in ratio) from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd remain essentially the same but with the M-20 you would now have a much larger drop in ratio in the 3rd to 4th gear change! As for the comment about changing your transmissions guts out for the M-22 gears, the ratios are identical as those in your M-21; the M-22 gears are considered "strait cut" gears and are much noisier than the "helical cut" gears in the other Muncie transmissions but a little stronger, thus a very expensive way to make noise. In my opinion, keep your M-21.
#8
#9
The M-21 (2.20/1 1st gear) is fine with the 3.91 rear gear. The M-20 trans has a 2.52/1 1st gear. The changeout from M-21 to M-20 or visa-versa is accomplished by changing the input shaft (4th gear) and the accompanying counter gear. Now here is the rub....gear changes (percentage of drop in ratio) from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd remain essentially the same but with the M-20 you would now have a much larger drop in ratio in the 3rd to 4th gear change! As for the comment about changing your transmissions guts out for the M-22 gears, the ratios are identical as those in your M-21; the M-22 gears are considered "strait cut" gears and are much noisier than the "helical cut" gears in the other Muncie transmissions but a little stronger, thus a very expensive way to make noise. In my opinion, keep your M-21.
#10
Ram Tech (www.ramclutches.com) is asking if it is a 10 or 26 spline input and "Is the engine internal or external balance factory"...any help??
Thanks!
Chad
Thanks!
Chad
#12
If the transmission is correct for your application and hasn't been monkeyed with, it should be a 10-spline. Generally speaking, 10-splines were '64-'70 and 26-splines were '70-'74. But 1968 was a long time ago, so you better run the numbers.
#13
Thanks....yeah it's original. It was my father-in-laws car. Trans was never touched.
#14
As stated above, trans should be ten spline input if never replaced or rebuilt. Your motor would be external balance from the factory. The M-21 trans would be fine for general use even with a 3.42/1 or 3.55/1 rear gear in most cases.
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