picked up a 66 toronado
August 14th, 2013, 07:13 PM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 73
picked up a 66 toronado
Hi.
My name is Kevin.
Recently, my dad and I picked up a 1966 toronado from its second owner who had owned it for almost 45 years. A toronado has been on my top 5 bucket list of cars to own for quite a while due to its space age styling/ innovation, and has been a car my dad had wanted because (as he put it) "it looked like something the jetsons had".
My other current cars (well, my project/ weekend cars (respectively) anyways) include a 1986 fleetwood brougham sedan with a worked over 350 and a street/ strip 200r4 with bucket seats and a custom wood (not MDF) center console, and 9c1 suspension, and a bone stock 1983 lesabre limited (with the 150 hp 307/ th350 trans).
So on to the toronado....
The toronado is dark blue exterior with dark blue deluxe interior. It has cloth/ vinyl strato bucket bench seats, and some other options (power antenna, cable controlled drivers mirror, courtesy lights, AC, reclining seat back, and what I believe are 4 way hazards (red light under dash...haven't been able to find out what it does yet).) It does not have power windows, locks, or seats, which I found odd (but don't mind because it is less to wear out). It has 88k on it and has been parked in a garage for 20 years.
My dad and I bought it with the hopes of fixing it up and making a weekend cruiser out of it (I know a nicer one is cheaper in the long run, but where's the fun in that?)
The interior is in pretty good shape given the age. The piping on the drivers seat back needs repair on one side, and it has a small hole/ tear in the back seat.
The body had a bad paint job (in the factory color) put on back in the 80s (the guy who painted it rolled it outside before the paint cured, which ruined the paint on the hood and caused some random small rust bubbles over time because moisture got into the paint. it has what I believe is a patch on the rf fender. Theres some paint peeling down by the chrome and its got 2 really old flathead screws going through holes in the rocker trim into the fender....the left fender has holes in the same spots, but no screws. It has some body putty behind the left rear side window (needs about a 3x4 inch spot replaced most likely...seems a semi common rust spot on toros). It has a couple small (maybe 2x2 patch) rust holes in the doors, some minor rust on the inside bottoms of the doors, and rust bubbles in the front of the passengers door area in the transition from the rocker to the firewall (has me worried because it seems a weird spot for rust). The floorpans are semi solid (not 100% solid, but don't feel like I'm going to fall through them.) I pounded on them very hard and while the metal felt a bit weaker than the trunk floor (which is overall very solid), it did not give way. There was also some very fine rust dust under the floorpans from the firewall to 2 feet in front of the rear wheels, not extending past the frame rails. The frame rails felt solid and had surface rust, but were not scaly or rotted (that I could tell).
The car also needs the bottom halves of the fronts of the rear wheelwells replaced (the undercoating on them cracked and failed and let water in behind them. The left one has a hole in it, and I can see through to under the body.) I did not notice any rust around the wheel wells other than the inner lip on the wheelwells (rusty but felt solid....I think the guy who painted it did a bad prep job and the paint fell off) and a couple small rust bubbles on the rockers/ doors/ wheelwells away from any lips/ edges that still felt solid (my body guy said some/ most of these are probably due to the poor paint job).
The trunk floor is still solid except for a small area next to the gas cap (fuel got on it and ate it?). The area under the fresh air vent is still solid, but one of the drain hoses split, and made a hole (probably going to have to cut out a 2x2 inch area out) in the bottom of the quarter panel right next to where the hose goes.
The engine bay still looks remarkably clean for the age. The valve covers didn't appear to be painted (or maybe they were silver). the engine wasnt overly dirty, and I saw no large stains under it. The inner fenders and wheel wells looked solid in the engine bay, and were still black. The left outer fender looked pretty good from the backside, but I could not see or feel the last couple inches. The radiator support and top of the frame rails were still black (weathered, but not overly rusty, and cleaner than I expected), which may be a good sign.
Overall it seems to be a decent car that needs some work to make it streetable and alot of minor rust repair and a little bit of more major repair (that would require a welder). On the plus side, all of the trim is there except the wheel well trim (a friend who used to own a 67 toro said were optional) and the interior is still in good shape.
plans for the car are to
1. get it driveable and to pass inspection (free the engine if seized, change all fluids, plugs and wires, hoses and anything rubber suspension related, tires, brakes, fuel lines and carb work for sure (don't want an engine fire....that would be very bad)
2. replace all rubber window/ door/ trunk seals. I know they are shot and that having it sit outside with bad seals would not be good.
3. fix whatever rust I can. I plan on using POR15 on the floorpans if they are solid enough, and wire wheeling alot of the body rust, seeing how bad it is, and if it is not through the metal that much, painting over it.
4. send the car to my body guy to have whatever major rust I cannot fix myself fixed (mainly the holes in the doors, patches in the fenders, and the rear wheel wells for now).
5. eventually take it down to metal (or at least below the repaint) and have it repainted in the factory color.
Here are a couple pictures of it from when I bought it.
4c11a063-fd10-4ffe-89c0-5ce3f4740201_zps4cd55519.jpg
IMAG2315_zpsbb072a34.jpg
IMAG2316_zps64fc1aa2.jpg
IMAG2318_zpsee7d40b4.jpg
this is a picture of the drivers floorpan under the mat. The drivers floor pan is by far the worst, but I did not feel like i was going to go through it
IMAG2317_zps7047c088.jpg
anyways, that is the story on my new to me toronado. I will be coming here as problems arise, and I am sure I will need some parts (like the lens on the passengers tail lamp thats broken.)
Also, if anyone has any tips on doing a front disc brake swap, that would be great (I plan on trying to find a beater 71-78 eldorado/ toronado)...and does anyone know if 67 eldorado floorpans will fit in a toronado? I would think they would be similar and they are reproduced (unlike the toro pans)
My name is Kevin.
Recently, my dad and I picked up a 1966 toronado from its second owner who had owned it for almost 45 years. A toronado has been on my top 5 bucket list of cars to own for quite a while due to its space age styling/ innovation, and has been a car my dad had wanted because (as he put it) "it looked like something the jetsons had".
My other current cars (well, my project/ weekend cars (respectively) anyways) include a 1986 fleetwood brougham sedan with a worked over 350 and a street/ strip 200r4 with bucket seats and a custom wood (not MDF) center console, and 9c1 suspension, and a bone stock 1983 lesabre limited (with the 150 hp 307/ th350 trans).
So on to the toronado....
The toronado is dark blue exterior with dark blue deluxe interior. It has cloth/ vinyl strato bucket bench seats, and some other options (power antenna, cable controlled drivers mirror, courtesy lights, AC, reclining seat back, and what I believe are 4 way hazards (red light under dash...haven't been able to find out what it does yet).) It does not have power windows, locks, or seats, which I found odd (but don't mind because it is less to wear out). It has 88k on it and has been parked in a garage for 20 years.
My dad and I bought it with the hopes of fixing it up and making a weekend cruiser out of it (I know a nicer one is cheaper in the long run, but where's the fun in that?)
The interior is in pretty good shape given the age. The piping on the drivers seat back needs repair on one side, and it has a small hole/ tear in the back seat.
The body had a bad paint job (in the factory color) put on back in the 80s (the guy who painted it rolled it outside before the paint cured, which ruined the paint on the hood and caused some random small rust bubbles over time because moisture got into the paint. it has what I believe is a patch on the rf fender. Theres some paint peeling down by the chrome and its got 2 really old flathead screws going through holes in the rocker trim into the fender....the left fender has holes in the same spots, but no screws. It has some body putty behind the left rear side window (needs about a 3x4 inch spot replaced most likely...seems a semi common rust spot on toros). It has a couple small (maybe 2x2 patch) rust holes in the doors, some minor rust on the inside bottoms of the doors, and rust bubbles in the front of the passengers door area in the transition from the rocker to the firewall (has me worried because it seems a weird spot for rust). The floorpans are semi solid (not 100% solid, but don't feel like I'm going to fall through them.) I pounded on them very hard and while the metal felt a bit weaker than the trunk floor (which is overall very solid), it did not give way. There was also some very fine rust dust under the floorpans from the firewall to 2 feet in front of the rear wheels, not extending past the frame rails. The frame rails felt solid and had surface rust, but were not scaly or rotted (that I could tell).
The car also needs the bottom halves of the fronts of the rear wheelwells replaced (the undercoating on them cracked and failed and let water in behind them. The left one has a hole in it, and I can see through to under the body.) I did not notice any rust around the wheel wells other than the inner lip on the wheelwells (rusty but felt solid....I think the guy who painted it did a bad prep job and the paint fell off) and a couple small rust bubbles on the rockers/ doors/ wheelwells away from any lips/ edges that still felt solid (my body guy said some/ most of these are probably due to the poor paint job).
The trunk floor is still solid except for a small area next to the gas cap (fuel got on it and ate it?). The area under the fresh air vent is still solid, but one of the drain hoses split, and made a hole (probably going to have to cut out a 2x2 inch area out) in the bottom of the quarter panel right next to where the hose goes.
The engine bay still looks remarkably clean for the age. The valve covers didn't appear to be painted (or maybe they were silver). the engine wasnt overly dirty, and I saw no large stains under it. The inner fenders and wheel wells looked solid in the engine bay, and were still black. The left outer fender looked pretty good from the backside, but I could not see or feel the last couple inches. The radiator support and top of the frame rails were still black (weathered, but not overly rusty, and cleaner than I expected), which may be a good sign.
Overall it seems to be a decent car that needs some work to make it streetable and alot of minor rust repair and a little bit of more major repair (that would require a welder). On the plus side, all of the trim is there except the wheel well trim (a friend who used to own a 67 toro said were optional) and the interior is still in good shape.
plans for the car are to
1. get it driveable and to pass inspection (free the engine if seized, change all fluids, plugs and wires, hoses and anything rubber suspension related, tires, brakes, fuel lines and carb work for sure (don't want an engine fire....that would be very bad)
2. replace all rubber window/ door/ trunk seals. I know they are shot and that having it sit outside with bad seals would not be good.
3. fix whatever rust I can. I plan on using POR15 on the floorpans if they are solid enough, and wire wheeling alot of the body rust, seeing how bad it is, and if it is not through the metal that much, painting over it.
4. send the car to my body guy to have whatever major rust I cannot fix myself fixed (mainly the holes in the doors, patches in the fenders, and the rear wheel wells for now).
5. eventually take it down to metal (or at least below the repaint) and have it repainted in the factory color.
Here are a couple pictures of it from when I bought it.
4c11a063-fd10-4ffe-89c0-5ce3f4740201_zps4cd55519.jpg
IMAG2315_zpsbb072a34.jpg
IMAG2316_zps64fc1aa2.jpg
IMAG2318_zpsee7d40b4.jpg
this is a picture of the drivers floorpan under the mat. The drivers floor pan is by far the worst, but I did not feel like i was going to go through it
IMAG2317_zps7047c088.jpg
anyways, that is the story on my new to me toronado. I will be coming here as problems arise, and I am sure I will need some parts (like the lens on the passengers tail lamp thats broken.)
Also, if anyone has any tips on doing a front disc brake swap, that would be great (I plan on trying to find a beater 71-78 eldorado/ toronado)...and does anyone know if 67 eldorado floorpans will fit in a toronado? I would think they would be similar and they are reproduced (unlike the toro pans)
Last edited by cadillac kevin; August 14th, 2013 at 07:16 PM.
August 14th, 2013, 08:07 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Love that rolling barrel speedo
I have never seen one w/o the springs poking thru the trunk floor.
nice score.
If I can help, let me know.
That is a great engine, the 66-67 Toro 425.
I think I have an FM radio for that car.
I have never seen one w/o the springs poking thru the trunk floor.
nice score.
If I can help, let me know.
That is a great engine, the 66-67 Toro 425.
I think I have an FM radio for that car.
August 15th, 2013, 08:43 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 270
I just replaced pretty much everything on my brakes except for the lines (all drums). I know a guy that has NOS brake shoes from the years ago, and the car really doesn’t stop badly.
Doesn’t stop as well as my 78 Eldorado with Hydroboost and disks, but I don’t feel unsafe
Doesn’t stop as well as my 78 Eldorado with Hydroboost and disks, but I don’t feel unsafe
August 20th, 2013, 10:59 AM
#5
Olds Collector
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 432
1966 Toro Repro floors & tail lights
Hello: I am the editor for the Toronado-Aurora Chapter of OCA. I have a member that repros the floor for the early Toros. I will send you contact information if interested. I have a set of 66 tail lights in good shape for sale. Regards, Trent in Los Angeles. My direct email: vista-cruiser@juno.com or a PM works.
August 22nd, 2013, 07:55 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 73
My passengers seat does have a recline lever. I don't think the drivers seat does though.
I am currently looking into buying a '68 toro parts car from a member here for disc brakes and sheetmetal for patching the body on my car. Hopefully, I'll be getting started on the 66 in a few weeks (been busy with work)
I am currently looking into buying a '68 toro parts car from a member here for disc brakes and sheetmetal for patching the body on my car. Hopefully, I'll be getting started on the 66 in a few weeks (been busy with work)
September 8th, 2013, 09:07 AM
#11
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 73
Spent yesterday picking up the toronado. Took 3 guys and beer to get it out of the garage and get it positioned for the rollback.
IMAG2391_zps26511105.jpg
Once I got it out in the open, the floorpans were not as bad as I had feared (need patching but overall are usable- a couple thumb sized holes and a long slit in front of the pass side front seat brace) but the rockers have been skimmed in bondo in front of the rear wheels (can see where the bondo cracked. Glad I found a parts car, because I'm gonna need it.
IMAG2391_zps26511105.jpg
Once I got it out in the open, the floorpans were not as bad as I had feared (need patching but overall are usable- a couple thumb sized holes and a long slit in front of the pass side front seat brace) but the rockers have been skimmed in bondo in front of the rear wheels (can see where the bondo cracked. Glad I found a parts car, because I'm gonna need it.
September 8th, 2013, 10:21 AM
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Sweet
Reminds me of the day just before I got my current job, epic car adventure day. I had to go get a 67 Toronado for parts. Among the features of the day was 2 rolls of silver nickels bought at a store for face value... a yellow submarine for sale in the trailer front yard... 90 yr old black woman running a little store... and the Toro.
One of them Hot and Muggy days.
No helper.
Get trailer near the Toro, start winching it up. Come-along, human powered.... pull 8 ft, block wheels, re-attach cable and chain, pull 8 more ft... etc.
At least it was rolling. Tires could have had more air. I get it all the way up on the trailer at long last... aaah!
It rolls fwd just a little
Drops the chain off the front
Starts to roll backwards
I could not get out of the trailer tongue fast enough to put a block behind a wheel, so all I could do was watch it roll back off the trailer, to farther back than it was when I started... all that work out the window, just like that.
I just had to laugh.
Next time I hooked a long wooden block piece to the chain to follow the front tires up the trailer, so if the chain drops off there is already a chock right there.
Reminds me of the day just before I got my current job, epic car adventure day. I had to go get a 67 Toronado for parts. Among the features of the day was 2 rolls of silver nickels bought at a store for face value... a yellow submarine for sale in the trailer front yard... 90 yr old black woman running a little store... and the Toro.
One of them Hot and Muggy days.
No helper.
Get trailer near the Toro, start winching it up. Come-along, human powered.... pull 8 ft, block wheels, re-attach cable and chain, pull 8 more ft... etc.
At least it was rolling. Tires could have had more air. I get it all the way up on the trailer at long last... aaah!
It rolls fwd just a little
Drops the chain off the front
Starts to roll backwards
I could not get out of the trailer tongue fast enough to put a block behind a wheel, so all I could do was watch it roll back off the trailer, to farther back than it was when I started... all that work out the window, just like that.
I just had to laugh.
Next time I hooked a long wooden block piece to the chain to follow the front tires up the trailer, so if the chain drops off there is already a chock right there.
September 16th, 2013, 07:49 PM
#14
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 73
mechanic lifted it to drop the gas tank (which is unusable due to rust inside the tank). I swung by and snapped some underbody pics. It isn't horrible, but isn't great either.
IMAG2433_zpsd4b8a397.jpg
IMAG2432_zpsc3e8b26f.jpg
left quarter
IMAG2431_zpsd55cc7f7.jpg
behind right front wheel
IMAG2430_zps7f34eba6.jpg
behind left front wheel
IMAG2429_zps750e1ff9.jpg
passengers front floorpan at seat brace
IMAG2428_zpsbda2f229.jpg
drivers floorpan behind pedals
IMAG2427_zpsbc1da3ae.jpg
trunk floor (I think)?
IMAG2426_zpsafe1bc71.jpg
left fender behind front wheel
IMAG2425_zps26dc4113.jpg
left rear wheel well
IMAG2424_zps6dfae61d.jpg
left quarter
IMAG2423_zps9a667517.jpg
right rear area in front of axle
IMAG2422_zps3246f0fa.jpg
trunk floor looking left
IMAG2421_zpsb1863f22.jpg
right rearmost rear spring mount
IMAG2420_zps674f19c1.jpg
IMAG2419_zps69a489fa.jpg
IMAG2433_zpsd4b8a397.jpg
IMAG2432_zpsc3e8b26f.jpg
left quarter
IMAG2431_zpsd55cc7f7.jpg
behind right front wheel
IMAG2430_zps7f34eba6.jpg
behind left front wheel
IMAG2429_zps750e1ff9.jpg
passengers front floorpan at seat brace
IMAG2428_zpsbda2f229.jpg
drivers floorpan behind pedals
IMAG2427_zpsbc1da3ae.jpg
trunk floor (I think)?
IMAG2426_zpsafe1bc71.jpg
left fender behind front wheel
IMAG2425_zps26dc4113.jpg
left rear wheel well
IMAG2424_zps6dfae61d.jpg
left quarter
IMAG2423_zps9a667517.jpg
right rear area in front of axle
IMAG2422_zps3246f0fa.jpg
trunk floor looking left
IMAG2421_zpsb1863f22.jpg
right rearmost rear spring mount
IMAG2420_zps674f19c1.jpg
IMAG2419_zps69a489fa.jpg
October 2nd, 2013, 08:21 PM
#16
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 73
Thanks. I sent out the tank to be boiled and coated and should have it back in a week. I am planning on replacing the exhaust system and replacing the fuel/ brake lines (along with fluid changes and other misc) and driving it as it until I get the better body here. My mechanic said it is still solid, and should be fine for a few years, but he would not recommend fixing the body if a cleaner one can be had. It is evident that the P.O. never washed the underbody and salt ate the underbody. Also, the body filler is alot worse than I initially thought. It is 1/4 inch thick (and unpainted) on the bottom of the car, so chances are that there is nothing left of the rockers. It will still make a cool cruiser until I can get the cleaner body here.
December 12th, 2013, 12:33 PM
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 73
well, after a new gas tank (found out old one rusted in half from the gas eating it), new carb, fluids, brake lines, tires, condenser, coil, and the wire from coil to distributor, it runs, drives, and stops fine (took it out for a spin yesterday). come spring I hope to put in new floorpans (just going to use sheetmetal) and maybe some body work on the lower fenders and quarters (gonna be time/ labor intensive).
I also have a couple problems
radio, clock, rear defroster, and power antenna do not work. are they on the same fuse?
Also, I cannot open the glovebox. I put the key in and turn it and the whole lock turns with the key. is there any way to get it open?
I also have a couple problems
radio, clock, rear defroster, and power antenna do not work. are they on the same fuse?
Also, I cannot open the glovebox. I put the key in and turn it and the whole lock turns with the key. is there any way to get it open?
December 13th, 2013, 09:38 PM
#19
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 73
I've got this and a 68 I bought from paratrooper501 (he was a great guy to deal with BTW). I will start work on that one in the spring (needs a fuel pump and brakes and body work but the underside never saw salt (due to being a non-coast oregon car), which is near impossible to find in MO). I should be picking up the 66 from the mechanic next week (I'll run it as a winter beater this year).
66 is my favorite year for the toro. 68s are cool, but it looks like a spun off pontiac design (IMO the grille recalls the grand prixs of the era, and the rear bumper reminds me of a lemans/ GTO)
66 is my favorite year for the toro. 68s are cool, but it looks like a spun off pontiac design (IMO the grille recalls the grand prixs of the era, and the rear bumper reminds me of a lemans/ GTO)
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