Pertronix ign
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Registered User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 17
From: texas
Pertronix ign
I just installed a pertronix #1181 with their coil . It won’t start timing is good and I have cked spark at the plugs using a spark tool. Coil shows about 7 v when turned on and 11v while cranking. There is a cloth wrapped wire attached to coil . It is a resistance wire that goes all the way to fuse box I assume. Some posts are confusing as to what to do as far as running a new wire to coil off of pink wire from ign switch. Do I leave the cloth wire in the wire loom but disconnect it from the coil?
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,615
From: Jacksonville, FL
Just a wild *** guess...I had a problem once where the radio suppression capacitor was bad and screwed the whole thing up.
It never made sense to me but it ran after disconnecting.
Try removing it.
It never made sense to me but it ran after disconnecting.
Try removing it.
Administrator
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 42,385
From: Poteau, Ok
You need a switched full 12v to the module red wire, you can use the resistance wire with the coil. If your system requires setting the module air gap did you do so?
1281.pdf (shopify.com)
1281.pdf (shopify.com)
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 17
From: texas
Fixed
Thanks for the info guys . The problem was I had my roter 180 out I was set up on t.d.c. On exhaust stroke. It’s ok it’s good now and seems to run cleaner and smoother . Sometimes you gotta look at the simple stuff twice. I’m a newbie here on the site thanks for the help
'72 Cutlass ragtop
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,274
From: Tampa, FL
Better keep a spare kit (or maybe a back-up points distributor) in the trunk - not looking to start a thread war on brand quality but this one doesn't get my vote of confidence (for what it's worth). Your experience will hopefully be better.
Registered User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,179
From: Northern California
If the pertronix is looking for a full 12 volts, you won’t be getting that through the resistance wire. At least in my ‘66’s it’s striped and uniquely cloth covered.
If the pertronix unit needs a full 12 voles, you’ll need to trace the resistance wire out to it’s (possibly soldered) connection to full 12 volts switched from the ignition switch and bypass the resistance wire with a normal (non-resistance) wire. From what I’ve seen GM used a bright pink color for HEI’s. Makes it easy to spot for troubleshooting.
This is what I needed to do for factory HEI and it’s worked well in both cars. The only pain-in-the-*ss is bypassing the resistance wire. You have to open up the wire loom wrapping tape, trace the cloth covered wire back to its source, then duplicate its patch to the distributor with a non-resistance wire. If it were me, I’d go with a nice heavy gauge wire like 12 or 10, just to be sure of 12 volts to the distributor.
If I’m off base about pertronix needs, I’ll be happy to stand corrected. I’m not familiar with the system. It’s just that many parts need full 12v and they don’t much like resistance wires or ballast resistors denying them the full voltage.
Let it also be said that those of us with HEI distributors have also learned the hard way to keep a spare module on hand. They fail occasionally and without warning. Point is, none of these electronic systems are perfect. My own preference is HEI since Olds used it in the later 455’s and most of the other GM divisions did too. There’s good documentation on it, good aftermarket support, and GM deployed it on millions of vehicles to good effect. No knock on Pertronix, I’m happy to have an alternative. Just haven’t tried it.
Hope you get it working as intended.
Chris
If the pertronix unit needs a full 12 voles, you’ll need to trace the resistance wire out to it’s (possibly soldered) connection to full 12 volts switched from the ignition switch and bypass the resistance wire with a normal (non-resistance) wire. From what I’ve seen GM used a bright pink color for HEI’s. Makes it easy to spot for troubleshooting.
This is what I needed to do for factory HEI and it’s worked well in both cars. The only pain-in-the-*ss is bypassing the resistance wire. You have to open up the wire loom wrapping tape, trace the cloth covered wire back to its source, then duplicate its patch to the distributor with a non-resistance wire. If it were me, I’d go with a nice heavy gauge wire like 12 or 10, just to be sure of 12 volts to the distributor.
If I’m off base about pertronix needs, I’ll be happy to stand corrected. I’m not familiar with the system. It’s just that many parts need full 12v and they don’t much like resistance wires or ballast resistors denying them the full voltage.
Let it also be said that those of us with HEI distributors have also learned the hard way to keep a spare module on hand. They fail occasionally and without warning. Point is, none of these electronic systems are perfect. My own preference is HEI since Olds used it in the later 455’s and most of the other GM divisions did too. There’s good documentation on it, good aftermarket support, and GM deployed it on millions of vehicles to good effect. No knock on Pertronix, I’m happy to have an alternative. Just haven’t tried it.
Hope you get it working as intended.
Chris
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 424
If the pertronix is looking for a full 12 volts, you won’t be getting that through the resistance wire. At least in my ‘66’s it’s striped and uniquely cloth covered.
If the pertronix unit needs a full 12 voles, you’ll need to trace the resistance wire out to it’s (possibly soldered) connection to full 12 volts switched from the ignition switch and bypass the resistance wire with a normal (non-resistance) wire. From what I’ve seen GM used a bright pink color for HEI’s. Makes it easy to spot for troubleshooting.
This is what I needed to do for factory HEI and it’s worked well in both cars. The only pain-in-the-*ss is bypassing the resistance wire. You have to open up the wire loom wrapping tape, trace the cloth covered wire back to its source, then duplicate its patch to the distributor with a non-resistance wire. If it were me, I’d go with a nice heavy gauge wire like 12 or 10, just to be sure of 12 volts to the distributor.
If I’m off base about pertronix needs, I’ll be happy to stand corrected. I’m not familiar with the system. It’s just that many parts need full 12v and they don’t much like resistance wires or ballast resistors denying them the full voltage.
Let it also be said that those of us with HEI distributors have also learned the hard way to keep a spare module on hand. They fail occasionally and without warning. Point is, none of these electronic systems are perfect. My own preference is HEI since Olds used it in the later 455’s and most of the other GM divisions did too. There’s good documentation on it, good aftermarket support, and GM deployed it on millions of vehicles to good effect. No knock on Pertronix, I’m happy to have an alternative. Just haven’t tried it.
Hope you get it working as intended.
Chris
If the pertronix unit needs a full 12 voles, you’ll need to trace the resistance wire out to it’s (possibly soldered) connection to full 12 volts switched from the ignition switch and bypass the resistance wire with a normal (non-resistance) wire. From what I’ve seen GM used a bright pink color for HEI’s. Makes it easy to spot for troubleshooting.
This is what I needed to do for factory HEI and it’s worked well in both cars. The only pain-in-the-*ss is bypassing the resistance wire. You have to open up the wire loom wrapping tape, trace the cloth covered wire back to its source, then duplicate its patch to the distributor with a non-resistance wire. If it were me, I’d go with a nice heavy gauge wire like 12 or 10, just to be sure of 12 volts to the distributor.
If I’m off base about pertronix needs, I’ll be happy to stand corrected. I’m not familiar with the system. It’s just that many parts need full 12v and they don’t much like resistance wires or ballast resistors denying them the full voltage.
Let it also be said that those of us with HEI distributors have also learned the hard way to keep a spare module on hand. They fail occasionally and without warning. Point is, none of these electronic systems are perfect. My own preference is HEI since Olds used it in the later 455’s and most of the other GM divisions did too. There’s good documentation on it, good aftermarket support, and GM deployed it on millions of vehicles to good effect. No knock on Pertronix, I’m happy to have an alternative. Just haven’t tried it.
Hope you get it working as intended.
Chris
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 167
I just installed a pertronix #1181 with their coil . It won’t start timing is good and I have cked spark at the plugs using a spark tool. Coil shows about 7 v when turned on and 11v while cranking. There is a cloth wrapped wire attached to coil . It is a resistance wire that goes all the way to fuse box I assume. Some posts are confusing as to what to do as far as running a new wire to coil off of pink wire from ign switch. Do I leave the cloth wire in the wire loom but disconnect it from the coil?
How has the 1181 held up for you? I'm looking to swap out my points for the 1181. I've read all the negative comments and no positive ones. Hard to believe.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,467
From: Harrison, Michigan
I installed the cheapest one ( seems like it was about $20.00 online) on my 71 Cutlass 350 10 years ago- absolutely no problems for me, I have been really happy, Course It has made me nervous hearing all the bad stories about Pertronix....
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 167
i have to try to remember not to leave my key in the on position for some reason.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,467
From: Harrison, Michigan
Yeah, I heard that also, I avoid doing that but have left key on for a minute or 2 when testing something. But I always thought it wasn't good to leave ignition on with engine off on all cars. Isn't that why they came out with the Acc position for us young teenagers to listen to radio in Dad's car?? My 56 F100 has a stock ignition switch which doesn't have a Acc position.
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