My New 72 Toro
August 22nd, 2013, 03:31 PM
#1
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My New 72 Toro
I cant wait to play with my new toy but need to drop it of at the shop for some big boy pants work 1st cause I really have no time for lift type work!
I stopped at the shop and told him about it and will drop it off on monday!
The biggy is my pass side outer CV boot has a slit and grey grease is coming out! Looks recent as the grease is splattered on the new tire. His 1st reaction was its prob. a good idea just to put rebuilt units on both sides rather than the labor for a new boot!
I'm not real sure about that on a 55k car that's been well taken care of and it seems to me that most modern day "re-builders" are not so good at what they do!
The rest is simple stuff like trans service and suspension work and shocks and oil change.
any thoughts or advise will be greatly appreciated.
I stopped at the shop and told him about it and will drop it off on monday!
The biggy is my pass side outer CV boot has a slit and grey grease is coming out! Looks recent as the grease is splattered on the new tire. His 1st reaction was its prob. a good idea just to put rebuilt units on both sides rather than the labor for a new boot!
I'm not real sure about that on a 55k car that's been well taken care of and it seems to me that most modern day "re-builders" are not so good at what they do!
The rest is simple stuff like trans service and suspension work and shocks and oil change.
any thoughts or advise will be greatly appreciated.
August 22nd, 2013, 06:16 PM
#4
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The labor is the same whether you're replacing the boot or the axle. New axles through Rockauto are less than $100 but if you're worried about Chinese quality than check out these guys. They rebuild these axles for vintage GMC motorhomes that used Toro drive systems. They cost about three times as much but are built to last and withstand.
Chris
http://www.kenlfreyautorepair.com/products
Chris
http://www.kenlfreyautorepair.com/products
August 23rd, 2013, 02:36 AM
#5
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sweet. will do. that re-builder is in my old stomping grounds in PA LOL!
Im glad you agreed with the shop. Its someone I want to use on a reg. basis.
I had to repeat to him several times. "its a 72 w 55 k on it" LOL!
Im glad you agreed with the shop. Its someone I want to use on a reg. basis.
I had to repeat to him several times. "its a 72 w 55 k on it" LOL!
August 23rd, 2013, 02:42 AM
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August 23rd, 2013, 03:09 AM
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weekend list: Upper brake lights no work. Relay clicks. any tricks? Put proper bulbs in cornering lights. Give A/C a drink of PROPANE. < that usually lights up folks in my other car forums LOL! Tinker with goofy fuel gauge! The prev. owner says its empty at the 1/2 mark and right now shows 3/4 with key on. I wonder if fuel light will still come on, not knowing what triggers that..the float or the needle?
August 23rd, 2013, 06:05 AM
#8
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The copy that's on WildAboutCars for free has no color, so, while it may help, you would do best to buy a paper copy - they're all over eBay.
At F, the sender should be at 90Ω.
Sounds like excessive resistance somewhere between the gauge, the sender, and the sender ground - disconnect and check each part to find out where.
Search will find lots of fuel gauge information, such as here, here, and here.
- Eric
August 23rd, 2013, 06:23 AM
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propane
Do you have to recalibrate your POA valve for that?
No changes needed....its a drop in for r-12 and 134
Did it to my 74 benz last summer. fashioned a valve to use a coleman fuel tank on my r-12 manifold. it sucked it in in about 3 minutes and has been perfect!
It runs at lower pressure than R-12 and is colder. Duracool sells "hydrocarbon" refrigerants that are relabeled cans of torch fuel!
Googgle it.
Dupont will pee in their pants if this ever takes hold!.....its my dirty little secret!
No changes needed....its a drop in for r-12 and 134
Did it to my 74 benz last summer. fashioned a valve to use a coleman fuel tank on my r-12 manifold. it sucked it in in about 3 minutes and has been perfect!
It runs at lower pressure than R-12 and is colder. Duracool sells "hydrocarbon" refrigerants that are relabeled cans of torch fuel!
Googgle it.
Dupont will pee in their pants if this ever takes hold!.....its my dirty little secret!
Last edited by AlanT; August 23rd, 2013 at 06:25 AM. Reason: a miss spell
August 23rd, 2013, 06:40 AM
#10
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Since you need to recalibrate your POA when you switch from R-12 to R-134, it sounds like the answer is "Yes."
So long as the risk of a fender bender turning into an engine fire doesn't bother you, it's fine.
We all have different ideas of relative risk. Some people carry lots of insurance, and some carry none.
- Eric
We all have different ideas of relative risk. Some people carry lots of insurance, and some carry none.
- Eric
August 23rd, 2013, 08:33 AM
#11
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Since you need to recalibrate your POA when you switch from R-12 to R-134, it sounds like the answer is "Yes."
So long as the risk of a fender bender turning into an engine fire doesn't bother you, it's fine.
We all have different ideas of relative risk. Some people carry lots of insurance, and some carry none.
- Eric
So long as the risk of a fender bender turning into an engine fire doesn't bother you, it's fine.
We all have different ideas of relative risk. Some people carry lots of insurance, and some carry none.
- Eric
August 23rd, 2013, 08:46 AM
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yea i knew id open a can o worms 
i see no difference in a pressurized fuel rail and propane in the A/C or my motor home with 30 gal of it on board or cars/trucks that run on propane! I once had a natural gas work van with this tank the size of a water heater behind the divers seat with a very large amt. of pressurized gas! (that one worried me LOL) and the answer is NO changes to anything "drop in"
i see no difference in a pressurized fuel rail and propane in the A/C or my motor home with 30 gal of it on board or cars/trucks that run on propane! I once had a natural gas work van with this tank the size of a water heater behind the divers seat with a very large amt. of pressurized gas! (that one worried me LOL) and the answer is NO changes to anything "drop in"
August 23rd, 2013, 09:38 AM
#13
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No worms.
A tank-mounted fuel pump will turn off automatically after about two seconds if the engine stops.
A propane or LNG-powered vehicle has only a few relatively heavy lines for the fuel, and they're not located at the very front of the car.
The evaporator is fragile, located right where cars get hit, and spread across a wide area.
Like I said, depends on your priorities.
As for the POA - I'd have to see the boiling points of all of the gasses to say anything more.
- Eric
A tank-mounted fuel pump will turn off automatically after about two seconds if the engine stops.
A propane or LNG-powered vehicle has only a few relatively heavy lines for the fuel, and they're not located at the very front of the car.
The evaporator is fragile, located right where cars get hit, and spread across a wide area.
Like I said, depends on your priorities.
As for the POA - I'd have to see the boiling points of all of the gasses to say anything more.
- Eric
August 24th, 2013, 02:51 AM
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I took the new beast to my shop on Fri. one of our reg. customers came in after parking her newish buick next to it and said "did cars really used be that long?" I kind of felt that way the 1st time I sat in it. Went with new axle shafts from rock auto and hope to have em mid week. Droppin er off monday after I tinker this weekend~ wash and wax and put my stink on it. I need a new vinyl top and am lucky to have an upholsterer who rents space from me. He's looking for a source and if there's a referral here, that would be great.
I kind of felt that way the 1st time I sat in it. Went with new axle shafts from rock auto and hope to have em mid week. Droppin er off monday after I tinker this weekend~ wash and wax and put my stink on it. I need a new vinyl top and am lucky to have an upholsterer who rents space from me. He's looking for a source and if there's a referral here, that would be great.
August 24th, 2013, 11:48 AM
#15
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proper bulbs in rear lights?
Im planning to tinker with the rear lights. the upper sockets are hanging with no bulbs and when I look in the manual, it says, tail and stop take 1157 and 8 of them!
I count 10....4 uppers and 6 in the mains.
the center one in the rear lowers is only wired for one filament to light in a double bulb.
Some enlightenment on this would be GREATLY appreciated.
cheers!
I count 10....4 uppers and 6 in the mains.
the center one in the rear lowers is only wired for one filament to light in a double bulb.
Some enlightenment on this would be GREATLY appreciated.
cheers!
August 24th, 2013, 02:41 PM
#16
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A review of the Chassis Service Manual (I presume you have one by now, even if the wiring diagram in the online version has no color) shows that, yes, in fact it uses 2 1157s in each upper taillight and 2 1157s in each lower taillight, for a total of 8 bulbs.
The diagram appears to show only one of the 1157 filaments being used in the upper lamps (weird - why not use 1156s, then?).
As for the relays, yes, I see two, and yes, the way they appear to be connected looks like they turn the upper light whenever the lower lights are on, provided the brake pedal is depressed at the same time, so that the upper lights go on when you step on the brake, but one also flashes if you step on the brake AND have the signal on.
It would be easy to bypass the relays and make them go on steadily whenever the brake is depressed (like a modern third brake light).
- Eric
The diagram appears to show only one of the 1157 filaments being used in the upper lamps (weird - why not use 1156s, then?).
As for the relays, yes, I see two, and yes, the way they appear to be connected looks like they turn the upper light whenever the lower lights are on, provided the brake pedal is depressed at the same time, so that the upper lights go on when you step on the brake, but one also flashes if you step on the brake AND have the signal on.
It would be easy to bypass the relays and make them go on steadily whenever the brake is depressed (like a modern third brake light).
- Eric
August 24th, 2013, 02:57 PM
#17
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A review of the Chassis Service Manual (I presume you have one by now, even if the wiring diagram in the online version has no color) shows that, yes, in fact it uses 2 1157s in each upper taillight and 2 1157s in each lower taillight, for a total of 8 bulbs.
The diagram appears to show only one of the 1157 filaments being used in the upper lamps (weird - why not use 1156s, then?).
As for the relays, yes, I see two, and yes, the way they appear to be connected looks like they turn the upper light whenever the lower lights are on, provided the brake pedal is depressed at the same time, so that the upper lights go on when you step on the brake, but one also flashes if you step on the brake AND have the signal on.
It would be easy to bypass the relays and make them go on steadily whenever the brake is depressed (like a modern third brake light).
- Eric
The diagram appears to show only one of the 1157 filaments being used in the upper lamps (weird - why not use 1156s, then?).
As for the relays, yes, I see two, and yes, the way they appear to be connected looks like they turn the upper light whenever the lower lights are on, provided the brake pedal is depressed at the same time, so that the upper lights go on when you step on the brake, but one also flashes if you step on the brake AND have the signal on.
It would be easy to bypass the relays and make them go on steadily whenever the brake is depressed (like a modern third brake light).
- Eric
August 24th, 2013, 03:48 PM
#19
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So the CSM is wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.
The one-teat bulbs are 1156s and the two-teat bulbs are 1157s.
Procure as needed.
Question: Which circuit are the center lower bulbs connected to?
Are they stop / signals, or are they tails?
Tails would use a low-wattage standard-base bulb, not an 1156.
- Eric
The one-teat bulbs are 1156s and the two-teat bulbs are 1157s.
Procure as needed.
Question: Which circuit are the center lower bulbs connected to?
Are they stop / signals, or are they tails?
Tails would use a low-wattage standard-base bulb, not an 1156.
- Eric
August 25th, 2013, 02:54 AM
#20
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So the CSM is wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.
The one-teat bulbs are 1156s and the two-teat bulbs are 1157s.
Procure as needed.
Question: Which circuit are the center lower bulbs connected to?
Are they stop / signals, or are they tails?
Tails would use a low-wattage standard-base bulb, not an 1156.
- Eric
The one-teat bulbs are 1156s and the two-teat bulbs are 1157s.
Procure as needed.
Question: Which circuit are the center lower bulbs connected to?
Are they stop / signals, or are they tails?
Tails would use a low-wattage standard-base bulb, not an 1156.
- Eric
even though im a "stock" guy I would TOTALLY do sequentials in those but will wait for that for down the road
I will pick up 4 1156s today! yea when I read the manual and compared it to reality my 1st thought was this written by haines? LOL
August 25th, 2013, 04:31 AM
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im dropping er off for service on monday, mostly drive-line and suspension work.
I printed the trans part of the manual for him for reference. I would prefer he not use modern day fluids in the trans and final drive. there are suggestions in the manual that are 41 years old. I put a note on my wish list to him for "BASIC" dextron and would assume reg. rear end type oil will work in final drive. any "edgamacated" advise would be appreciated
I printed the trans part of the manual for him for reference. I would prefer he not use modern day fluids in the trans and final drive. there are suggestions in the manual that are 41 years old. I put a note on my wish list to him for "BASIC" dextron and would assume reg. rear end type oil will work in final drive. any "edgamacated" advise would be appreciated
August 25th, 2013, 06:33 AM
#24
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The low-mounted taillight-only single-filament middle bulbs should be 1155s.
I would prefer he not use modern day fluids in the trans and final drive. there are suggestions in the manual that are 41 years old. I put a note on my wish list to him for "BASIC" dextron and would assume reg. rear end type oil will work in final drive. any "edgamacated" advise would be appreciated
All Dextron is backward-compatible, and modern ATF is much better engineered than the older stuff.
You're in luck, though, because there is no way that he will be able to find older fluid, so Dexton VI it will be.
Same goes for gear oil - old single-weight vs modern 75w140 synthetic is no contest (though if you have posi, you need to be sure you have exactly the specified fluid and friction modifier).
Don't torture the poor mechanic.
- Eric
August 25th, 2013, 06:53 AM
#25
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After a bit of searching, I can say with confidence that the high-mounted stop lamps, if they are single-filament, should be 1156s (as we discussed).
The low-mounted taillight-only single-filament middle bulbs should be 1155s.
Edgamacated advice: You're nuts.
All Dextron is backward-compatible, and modern ATF is much better engineered than the older stuff.
You're in luck, though, because there is no way that he will be able to find older fluid, so Dexton VI it will be.
Same goes for gear oil - old single-weight vs modern 75w140 synthetic is no contest (though if you have posi, you need to be sure you have exactly the specified fluid and friction modifier).
Don't torture the poor mechanic.
- Eric
The low-mounted taillight-only single-filament middle bulbs should be 1155s.
Edgamacated advice: You're nuts.
All Dextron is backward-compatible, and modern ATF is much better engineered than the older stuff.
You're in luck, though, because there is no way that he will be able to find older fluid, so Dexton VI it will be.
Same goes for gear oil - old single-weight vs modern 75w140 synthetic is no contest (though if you have posi, you need to be sure you have exactly the specified fluid and friction modifier).
Don't torture the poor mechanic.
- Eric
There are some who feel the newer higher detergent fluids can sometimes loosen up sludge and do bad things! good thing is the prev. owner had it since new and took good care of it including mobile1 oil for as long as that's been around!
August 25th, 2013, 07:38 AM
#26
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At the very least, it looks like a good "testing" refrigerant to use when resuscitating old R-12 systems, checking for leaks, blockages, and component performance, before putting in "real" R-12.
By the looks of its composition, running it through an R-12 system shouldn't have a harmful effect if it is later suctioned and replaced with R-12.
- Eric
August 25th, 2013, 08:16 AM
#27
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The one-teat bulbs are 1156s and the two-teat bulbs are 1157s.
========================
Huh I never knew the correct term for those configurations
"one-teat" and "two-teat"
OK
Two teats, no waiting!
:-)
As for the driveshafts, chances are at 55k miles there is NOTHING wrong with the driveshaft and CV joint. I'd prefer known good low miles factory parts with a cleaning, inspection, fresh grease, and new boots. 2nd best bet would be the motorhome rebuilder place. If you buy generic store parts, stash the originals.
========================
Huh I never knew the correct term for those configurations
"one-teat" and "two-teat"
OK
Two teats, no waiting!
:-)
As for the driveshafts, chances are at 55k miles there is NOTHING wrong with the driveshaft and CV joint. I'd prefer known good low miles factory parts with a cleaning, inspection, fresh grease, and new boots. 2nd best bet would be the motorhome rebuilder place. If you buy generic store parts, stash the originals.
August 25th, 2013, 08:40 AM
#28
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As for the driveshafts, chances are at 55k miles there is NOTHING wrong with the driveshaft and CV joint. I'd prefer known good low miles factory parts with a cleaning, inspection, fresh grease, and new boots. 2nd best bet would be the motorhome rebuilder place. If you buy generic store parts, stash the originals.
- Eric
August 25th, 2013, 01:51 PM
#29
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I totally got the one teat two teat...its a farm thing LOL.
Put the right bulbs in the upper break lights (one teat) and they work FINE! yeah! Tested the fuel Gauge and its fine. I saw some were you can compensate with resisters to get a proper reading. Looked again at the trans fluid and just may leave it alone for now..its not cherry red but NOT burnt and she shifts perfectly! I have new shafts coming and DO plan to keep the old ones for down the road literally LOL. Fresh wash and wax and im heading out for a little ride!....Need a new vinyl top in GREEN and only can find black...any suggestions?
Put the right bulbs in the upper break lights (one teat) and they work FINE! yeah! Tested the fuel Gauge and its fine. I saw some were you can compensate with resisters to get a proper reading. Looked again at the trans fluid and just may leave it alone for now..its not cherry red but NOT burnt and she shifts perfectly! I have new shafts coming and DO plan to keep the old ones for down the road literally LOL. Fresh wash and wax and im heading out for a little ride!....Need a new vinyl top in GREEN and only can find black...any suggestions?
August 31st, 2013, 03:37 AM
#30
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bad shippers
FED EX sucks, Rock Auto ROCKS!
Got my new 1/2 shafts on fri and this is what happened to one of them in transit.
Sent the pics to the vendor and made the call and a new one is on the way!
I may just try and pop the good one in over the long weekend.
Got my new 1/2 shafts on fri and this is what happened to one of them in transit.
Sent the pics to the vendor and made the call and a new one is on the way!
I may just try and pop the good one in over the long weekend.
September 3rd, 2013, 06:42 AM
#32
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September 3rd, 2013, 06:47 AM
#33
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good info. I found this right after I did exactly what this guy describes. its the second time I've been able to breath life into one of these gems from the 60s / 70s
http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restora..._old_car_clock
http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restora..._old_car_clock
September 3rd, 2013, 10:05 AM
#34
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My Toronado is Silver mint with a Dark Green vinyl top.I had the interior replaced with light green velour with the original green vinyl. I have completely done everything one could do except a frame off restoration. You may not believe me but I have even added headers .I was always told that you could not add headers to a Toronado but found out you actually can. Im getting ready to write an article for the Oldsmobile and Toronado Magazine detailing all I have done. Hope I can be of help to people wanting to modify there Toronado.I have been a member for some time but this is my first message.
September 3rd, 2013, 04:53 PM
#35
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Well I'm tickled pink with mine. Found a fuel leak on the return hose off of the pump and luckily I had a piece of hose just long enough! Getting my triple gauges on wed. waiting on the replacement 1/2 axle. Changed the oil on mon and had to use my smart phone at the parts store for the filter number cause the book there stops at 1983 
I Was surprised to find a GM filter still on the car LOL
I Was surprised to find a GM filter still on the car LOL
September 13th, 2013, 08:21 AM
#38
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Still waiting on my 3RD 1/2 axle replacement that FEDEX has twice damaged! I give credit to rock auto for sending out the replacements but one would think they would pack them for shipping better
The jury is still out on the fuel gauge cause just when I thought is was working I put about 10 gal in it and the needle didn't move.
The jury is still out on the fuel gauge cause just when I thought is was working I put about 10 gal in it and the needle didn't move.
September 21st, 2013, 01:58 AM
#39
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Got one new 1/2 shaft installed. He said the other one looked real fresh so we left it be. Now I have a spare. I have a parts list from him for the next visit. >front shocks, steering damper and Parking brake cable. all found on Rock auto.
It amuses me how silly people act around the car. Like WOW that's big and I bet this lift (mechanics helper) hasn't seen this kind of weight in a long time.
I need to rebuild the carb. as I have NO accelerator pump (Takes several tries to start when cold) Got some play in the steering box and i know there are some old school tricks for adjusting but will proceed with caution cause its not terrible and I really only notice after driving the Volvo XC that turns on 1/2 a dime LOL. Waiting on fabric samples for the top. I don't know for sure if he checked the final drive fluid level but I'm sure I can figure that out. Glad its the day bfr tinker with toy sunday
It amuses me how silly people act around the car. Like WOW that's big and I bet this lift (mechanics helper) hasn't seen this kind of weight in a long time.
I need to rebuild the carb. as I have NO accelerator pump (Takes several tries to start when cold) Got some play in the steering box and i know there are some old school tricks for adjusting but will proceed with caution cause its not terrible and I really only notice after driving the Volvo XC that turns on 1/2 a dime LOL. Waiting on fabric samples for the top. I don't know for sure if he checked the final drive fluid level but I'm sure I can figure that out. Glad its the day bfr tinker with toy sunday
September 26th, 2013, 03:21 AM
#40
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My 27 year old employee looked at me like I grew a 3rd eye when the Toro showed up.
I park it out in front of the shop when I am in house and about every 3rd customer makes a comment on the car. I can see the change in him to were he just might understand my passion for it. He will come back to my workbench and say "there's another one out on the floor who's in LOVE with the Toro" LOL! My V-12 jag got attention but it was nothing like this!
I park it out in front of the shop when I am in house and about every 3rd customer makes a comment on the car. I can see the change in him to were he just might understand my passion for it. He will come back to my workbench and say "there's another one out on the floor who's in LOVE with the Toro" LOL! My V-12 jag got attention but it was nothing like this!
