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Success. After dremeling off the old line, a deep socket worked almost ridiculously easily, as if to mock the 45 mins I'd spent trying to do this nondestructively. (edit: yep I tried vice grips and flare wrench) I have parts for the other side too, but it's not locking up like this side was.
Do I need to pre-adjust the toothed thing? I put it back as it was, and didn't change the shoes. Will this take care of itself? I've limited experience with drums.
Last edited by mike 66 toro; Nov 25, 2023 at 04:42 PM.
If you’re not changing anything but the wheel cylinder you still may need to readjust the brakes when done. Note, if the shoes got saturated with brake fluid, that would cause them to lock up and they would need to be replaced. No amount of cleaning will cure it.
Oh ok, thx. So that's the part that screws into the back of the wheel cylinder correct? Did you have any trouble finding a replacement hose?
Yes it is.
Rockauto has the hoses (I got Dorman) and wheel cylinders (I got ACDelco). Everything looks good. I only tried the parts for right side so far.
Just asking again in case it was missed, I know my posts have twists and turns: Do I need to pre-adjust the toothed thing? I put it back as it was, and didn't change the shoes. Will this take care of itself? I didn't put the wheel back on yet.
Originally Posted by oldcutlass
if the shoes got saturated with brake fluid, that would cause them to lock up
I think I shouldn't have said "lock up". I meant that the brake would apply but not release for about an hour, which is why I got the hoses but the wheel cylinders are cheap so I got them too.
Last edited by mike 66 toro; Nov 25, 2023 at 06:20 PM.
One side, maybe both, the upper ball joint has to come loose to tilt the spindle out for access to remove the front wheel cylinders and hoses. Like a lot of things Toronado brake hydraulics can be a PITA.
Here's the 66-69 Toronado front wheel cylinder part #s. A quick Google will show you they interchange with some mid-60s A-bodies and, of all things, Novas. So not hard to find.
Grp 4.665, p/n 5469303 LH, 5469304 RH.
Rears: 4.665, p/n 5452329 fits both sides.
Rebuild kits:
Front 4.665, 5465083 both sides, 1-1/8" bore
Rear: 4.665, 5464848 both sides, 7/8" bore.
It's been years ago, but I did a complete rebuild of my '66 Toro brake system, and I know I didn't have to pop any ball joints to replace the wheel cylinders. Replaced all wheel and master cylinders, all hoses, and all tubings except long front-to-rear line.as too hard to replace with its integration with the frame.
It's been years ago, but I did a complete rebuild of my '66 Toro brake system, and I know I didn't have to pop any ball joints to replace the wheel cylinders. Replaced all wheel and master cylinders, all hoses, and all tubings except long front-to-rear line.as too hard to replace with its integration with the frame.
i had to replace a cracked lower control arm, bushings and lower ball joints as well as all 4 wheel cyls , hoses and all hard lines except one along frame
no just cleaned and insp seals. Ill prob be sorry later
You can get em pretty cheap off Rockauto. The brand is WJB. I picked up a set and am gonna install em over the winter. God only knows if they're good quality but mine are original '66 bearings and I'd like to change em out. I have no idea how I'm gonna pull the bearings off that hub. I'd like to avoid cutting them off.
Last edited by ourkid2000; Nov 26, 2023 at 05:59 AM.
You pull, actually push the bearings off the same way you'll be installing the new ones - you need a good hydraulic press and ideally the tool that grips the bearing right next to the hub.. Removal is harder than installation, probably the reason that GM stopped selling the bearing by itself, and instead started selling the bearing and hub as an assembly, using the same part number, 907770 if I recall correctly.
You pull, actually push the bearings off the same way you'll be installing the new ones - you need a good hydraulic press and ideally the tool that grips the bearing right next to the hub.. Removal is harder than installation, probably the reason that GM stopped selling the bearing by itself, and instead started selling the bearing and hub as an assembly, using the same part number, 907770 if I recall correctly.
Yeah, there's a whole bunch of things working against you right? If you're pushing the hub out the bottom with a shop press, you have to have either a huge receiver tube or else the space underneath the press has to accommodate a pretty big hub coming down as it gets pressed out. Typical homeowner style shop presses aren't usually that large. If you used a typical bearing separator/splitter, that's a pretty big bearing to try to pull with a tool like that. I guess that's why GM had that big ol' weird looking bearing puller tool shown in the manual.
It would probably be an easier job if the bearing stayed in the knuckle when you pulled the hub but it's doesn't look like that it what normally happens. The bearing always seems to be stuck to the hub.
Or of course you could always cut the thing off.....but I'd like to avoid that.
Disclaimer...I'm not familiar with these bearings and guess they are sealed. Has anyone tried either removing and reinstalling the seal if that is doable OR piercing the seal to allow old grease to escape and making another piercing on an opposite side injecting grease with a needle adapter. The piercings could be resealed with a dab of silicone.
I've had success removing and reinstalling the seals but I'm completely unfamiliar with these bearings.
Disclaimer...I'm not familiar with these bearings and guess they are sealed. Has anyone tried either removing and reinstalling the seal if that is doable OR piercing the seal to allow old grease to escape and making another piercing on an opposite side injecting grease with a needle adapter. The piercings could be resealed with a dab of silicone.
I've had success removing and reinstalling the seals but I'm completely unfamiliar with these bearings.
They have a metal ring seal, unlike the typical plastic grease sealed ones you're thinking of. It cannot be removed
Think there's enough clearance on those wheel bearings to get a bearing splitter in behind to pull em off the hub? It's doesn't need much, just a little. I can't quite make out how much clearance is there based on your photos.
Ourkid2000. I think its do able Prob put it between retainer plate and flange. You would need to stack heavy bars or 1” plate to span the flange and set the splitter on. I would turn a piloted bar to center in the hub to push on. Of course you would need to do this in a press. A puller wont do
Ourkid2000. I think its do able Prob put it between retainer plate and flange. You would need to stack heavy bars or 1” plate to span the flange and set the splitter on. I would turn a piloted bar to center in the hub to push on. Of course you would need to do this in a press. A puller wont do
Understood. How did you get the hubs out of the knuckle? Slide hammer? Did they fight ya?
One came out with a brass drift and BFH other one i had to put in the press if i recall. Re assembly i just made sure of no rust/ dirt. Heated knuckle up and dropped them in
recommend popping the dust seal out of the knuckle so it doesn't get damaged
