'67 Toro front shock replacement

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Old Jun 27, 2024 | 07:44 AM
  #1  
BSiegPaint's Avatar
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From: North Royalton, OH
'67 Toro front shock replacement

I'm changing out the front shocks while I have the opportunity, and I am able to get the top bolt and nut off, as well as the bottom nut and washer without much issue. I am installing Gabriel replacements, which have a mount consisting of a metal tube surrounded by a rubber seal top and bottom. While the top slides into place with no trouble, I'm finding the inner metal sleeve on the bottom is exactly the size of the bolt on the bottom, past the threads, making the shock impossible to install. So the question is, do I remove the inner metal tube on the bottom of the new shock and slide the rubber seal over the threads and the existing bolt? The ASM isn't as clear as I had hoped here - does the existing lower bolt have a sleeve around it that can be removed, or is that just the bolt itself? I don't want to damage or scar up anything trying to remove a piece that can't be removed... I'll add a couple pics as I'm sure I'm not describing this well...



Can this be pressed out?



Is this a removable or permanent sleeve?



Old Jun 27, 2024 | 08:23 AM
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It looks like the bottom mount still has a sleeve on it. See if you can get a channel locks on it and get it to turn.
Old Jun 27, 2024 | 08:34 AM
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In a very different scenario I recently had basically this same issue but w/ a steering dampener (shock) on my 2003 Ford F250. Pulled my hair for no more than ~30' examining the dampener I was replacing with the new dampener I was installing. They were 100% identical except the new dampener had that sleeve embedded in it exactly like your 1st image - and, don't ask me why that is. I removed that embedded sleeve and it worked/fit perfectly. I suspect they made the exact same shock w/ & w/o that embedded metal sleeve. Good Luck!
Old Jun 27, 2024 | 08:39 AM
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BSiegPaint's Avatar
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
It looks like the bottom mount still has a sleeve on it. See if you can get a channel locks on it and get it to turn.
THAT'S IT! It was solidly rusted onto the bolt and took some persuasion. THANK YOU! Both sides are the exact same... It's been a long, long time since these shocks were changed. The rears had never been until yesterday. Crazy.
Old Jun 27, 2024 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by BSiegPaint
THAT'S IT! It was solidly rusted onto the bolt and took some persuasion. THANK YOU! Both sides are the exact same... It's been a long, long time since these shocks were changed. The rears had never been until yesterday. Crazy.
Yeah baby...good deal!
Old Jun 27, 2024 | 09:06 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by BSiegPaint
THAT'S IT! It was solidly rusted onto the bolt and took some persuasion. THANK YOU! Both sides are the exact same... It's been a long, long time since these shocks were changed. The rears had never been until yesterday. Crazy.
Glad you got it.
Old Jun 27, 2024 | 10:56 AM
  #7  
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Thanks again everyone who helped with this seemingly simple project. It’s interesting what details are left out of the manuals that could be a big help… on this project I learned:
1) the front shocks are in a tight location - you will have to tap or otherwise force the bottom off at a slight angle
2) if you see anything but threads on the mounting areas, a piece of the old shock is left behind
3) when installing, as with removing, the bottom of the shock will go on at a hard angle and you’ll need to tap it on with a hammer
4) if the shock isn’t long enough when extended to reach the upper mount, you need to move your floor jack farther out onto the a-arm to raise the bottom of the shock higher
5) unlike the rear shocks which attach at 10 ft/lbs, the front shock bolts torque to 65-90 pounds, top and bottom
6) now is a good time to paint your brake drums

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