66 Toro vac line questions
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66 Toro vac line questions
Just noticed that my trans and vac advance are on the same line, on a T fitting into the topmost port on the carb (qjet), is this the correct setup? I would think the trans would be on its own fitting on the intake manifold?
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It’s not exactly dealer’s choice, but you do have options. First up, get the 1966 Chassis Service Manual. The real one that’s a book. It will have the vacuum diagrams with the color descriptions you’ll need to figure out which vacuum line does what. Without that, you’ll be lost. Or playing trial and error forever.
For all those vacuum accessories which will include the heater/AC & headlight doors and may include trunk lock, power door locks you want manifold vacuum so that those accessories are available once the engine is running. It’s a good practice to plumb in a one-way vacuum valve so that if any of those accessories has a leak, it doesn’t feed back to the engine and wreck the idle. I’d recommend one valve per accessory, but it’s a judgment call.
58 years later, it’s possible, even likely, that some of your vacuum hoses are brittle, especially where they connect to controls. The little ones usually split first. Olds generally made the hoses an inch or 2 long so if they split, you can snip the end off & get them to reseal. But you can only do that so many times before you run out of hose. But someone had this car before you and may have already done that. And with rubber hoses at this age, they’re very likely to split when you cut ‘em…
The heater/AC and other hoses are color coded. You won’t find color coded correct-size vacuum lines these days. If you replace them, the best you can do would be to label each end of the hose (before it’s on the car) with either the color Olds used, or it’s purpose (vent, recirculation door, etc.). No harm in making your own, new, harness - just be sure you label things.
I’m remembering that the Toros have massive vacuum reservoirs hidden up in the fender somewhere. I’d leak test these and be sure the lines to them are new. You may need to solder up any leaks in the tank. Or get a replacement tank if you can find one. (Don’t bet on that - be ready to fix yours).
For stuff you need to work without fail like the distributor, you probably want it on it’s own vacuum line (same with brake booster). Brake booster goes to manifold vacuum at the rear of the carb.
Distributor can go either to manifold vacuum or “ported” vacuum on the upper side of the carb. I will avoid the religious wars associated with manifold vs. ported vacuum here. Just know there are 2 choices, test both and see which works best for your engine & habits. As a vote, I use manifold vacuum for my distributors.
Hope this little primer helps. Vacuum systems aren’t hard and you can bench test them with your mouth as needed.
Cheers
cf
For all those vacuum accessories which will include the heater/AC & headlight doors and may include trunk lock, power door locks you want manifold vacuum so that those accessories are available once the engine is running. It’s a good practice to plumb in a one-way vacuum valve so that if any of those accessories has a leak, it doesn’t feed back to the engine and wreck the idle. I’d recommend one valve per accessory, but it’s a judgment call.
58 years later, it’s possible, even likely, that some of your vacuum hoses are brittle, especially where they connect to controls. The little ones usually split first. Olds generally made the hoses an inch or 2 long so if they split, you can snip the end off & get them to reseal. But you can only do that so many times before you run out of hose. But someone had this car before you and may have already done that. And with rubber hoses at this age, they’re very likely to split when you cut ‘em…
The heater/AC and other hoses are color coded. You won’t find color coded correct-size vacuum lines these days. If you replace them, the best you can do would be to label each end of the hose (before it’s on the car) with either the color Olds used, or it’s purpose (vent, recirculation door, etc.). No harm in making your own, new, harness - just be sure you label things.
I’m remembering that the Toros have massive vacuum reservoirs hidden up in the fender somewhere. I’d leak test these and be sure the lines to them are new. You may need to solder up any leaks in the tank. Or get a replacement tank if you can find one. (Don’t bet on that - be ready to fix yours).
For stuff you need to work without fail like the distributor, you probably want it on it’s own vacuum line (same with brake booster). Brake booster goes to manifold vacuum at the rear of the carb.
Distributor can go either to manifold vacuum or “ported” vacuum on the upper side of the carb. I will avoid the religious wars associated with manifold vs. ported vacuum here. Just know there are 2 choices, test both and see which works best for your engine & habits. As a vote, I use manifold vacuum for my distributors.
Hope this little primer helps. Vacuum systems aren’t hard and you can bench test them with your mouth as needed.
Cheers
cf
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 276
It’s not exactly dealer’s choice, but you do have options. First up, get the 1966 Chassis Service Manual. The real one that’s a book. It will have the vacuum diagrams with the color descriptions you’ll need to figure out which vacuum line does what. Without that, you’ll be lost. Or playing trial and error forever.
For all those vacuum accessories which will include the heater/AC & headlight doors and may include trunk lock, power door locks you want manifold vacuum so that those accessories are available once the engine is running. It’s a good practice to plumb in a one-way vacuum valve so that if any of those accessories has a leak, it doesn’t feed back to the engine and wreck the idle. I’d recommend one valve per accessory, but it’s a judgment call.
58 years later, it’s possible, even likely, that some of your vacuum hoses are brittle, especially where they connect to controls. The little ones usually split first. Olds generally made the hoses an inch or 2 long so if they split, you can snip the end off & get them to reseal. But you can only do that so many times before you run out of hose. But someone had this car before you and may have already done that. And with rubber hoses at this age, they’re very likely to split when you cut ‘em…
The heater/AC and other hoses are color coded. You won’t find color coded correct-size vacuum lines these days. If you replace them, the best you can do would be to label each end of the hose (before it’s on the car) with either the color Olds used, or it’s purpose (vent, recirculation door, etc.). No harm in making your own, new, harness - just be sure you label things.
I’m remembering that the Toros have massive vacuum reservoirs hidden up in the fender somewhere. I’d leak test these and be sure the lines to them are new. You may need to solder up any leaks in the tank. Or get a replacement tank if you can find one. (Don’t bet on that - be ready to fix yours).
For stuff you need to work without fail like the distributor, you probably want it on it’s own vacuum line (same with brake booster). Brake booster goes to manifold vacuum at the rear of the carb.
Distributor can go either to manifold vacuum or “ported” vacuum on the upper side of the carb. I will avoid the religious wars associated with manifold vs. ported vacuum here. Just know there are 2 choices, test both and see which works best for your engine & habits. As a vote, I use manifold vacuum for my distributors.
Hope this little primer helps. Vacuum systems aren’t hard and you can bench test them with your mouth as needed.
Cheers
cf
For all those vacuum accessories which will include the heater/AC & headlight doors and may include trunk lock, power door locks you want manifold vacuum so that those accessories are available once the engine is running. It’s a good practice to plumb in a one-way vacuum valve so that if any of those accessories has a leak, it doesn’t feed back to the engine and wreck the idle. I’d recommend one valve per accessory, but it’s a judgment call.
58 years later, it’s possible, even likely, that some of your vacuum hoses are brittle, especially where they connect to controls. The little ones usually split first. Olds generally made the hoses an inch or 2 long so if they split, you can snip the end off & get them to reseal. But you can only do that so many times before you run out of hose. But someone had this car before you and may have already done that. And with rubber hoses at this age, they’re very likely to split when you cut ‘em…
The heater/AC and other hoses are color coded. You won’t find color coded correct-size vacuum lines these days. If you replace them, the best you can do would be to label each end of the hose (before it’s on the car) with either the color Olds used, or it’s purpose (vent, recirculation door, etc.). No harm in making your own, new, harness - just be sure you label things.
I’m remembering that the Toros have massive vacuum reservoirs hidden up in the fender somewhere. I’d leak test these and be sure the lines to them are new. You may need to solder up any leaks in the tank. Or get a replacement tank if you can find one. (Don’t bet on that - be ready to fix yours).
For stuff you need to work without fail like the distributor, you probably want it on it’s own vacuum line (same with brake booster). Brake booster goes to manifold vacuum at the rear of the carb.
Distributor can go either to manifold vacuum or “ported” vacuum on the upper side of the carb. I will avoid the religious wars associated with manifold vs. ported vacuum here. Just know there are 2 choices, test both and see which works best for your engine & habits. As a vote, I use manifold vacuum for my distributors.
Hope this little primer helps. Vacuum systems aren’t hard and you can bench test them with your mouth as needed.
Cheers
cf
Is it ok for the trans line and vac advance to share the same port (t-fitting), or should I have them separate?
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,829
From: Northern VA
Registered User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,271
From: Northern California
I wouldn’t have called the distributor & transmission sharing a port, but when Joe P. talks, you’re well advised to listen.
Even more so when he posts the scrolls of the ancients (aka the ‘66 Chassis Service Manual). Beyond that, if the “T” fitting is metal, not plastic, it’s almost certainly original.
Wishing you all success on your Toro!
cf
Even more so when he posts the scrolls of the ancients (aka the ‘66 Chassis Service Manual). Beyond that, if the “T” fitting is metal, not plastic, it’s almost certainly original.
Wishing you all success on your Toro!
cf
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 276
I wouldn’t have called the distributor & transmission sharing a port, but when Joe P. talks, you’re well advised to listen.
Even more so when he posts the scrolls of the ancients (aka the ‘66 Chassis Service Manual). Beyond that, if the “T” fitting is metal, not plastic, it’s almost certainly original.
Wishing you all success on your Toro!
cf
Even more so when he posts the scrolls of the ancients (aka the ‘66 Chassis Service Manual). Beyond that, if the “T” fitting is metal, not plastic, it’s almost certainly original.
Wishing you all success on your Toro!
cf
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,829
From: Northern VA
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 226
My '66 Toro has a molded rubber 'T' connecting the vacuum advance line and the trans modulator line. Plus, in Olds Chassis Service Manual, page 7E-16, illustration 7E-18, it appears that a molded rubber 'T' is used up close to carburetor port. "If it ain't broke, you can't fix it."
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