The A-body mounts probably aren't going to work on the C10 crossmember. Get the frame mounts from a 1977-1980 C/K with the Olds 350 diesel and the 455 is a bolt-in.

 

thanks Joe, i'll try to run down a part # for them

 

You do realize that you won't find anyone selling them new, right?

 

yeah i figured it out by searching endlessly, i'll have to go scrounging in the salvage yard...

 

Looking at my El Camino frame, which has the Chevy frame mounts, its amazing how close they are. If you can weld you can do this.
The Chevy mounts could be cut and welded to size I would think.
I'd not fret over finding the correct ones. Fab em up!

If I'm wrong about this someone will be along soon enough to tell you.
(I could be?)

 

The C-10 is a full size pickup and is completely unrelated to an El Camino. The ElCo is an A-body (or G-body, depending on the year). There's no cutting or welding required. Just get the same year Cutlass frame mounts and matching rubber motor mounts and the Olds motor bolts directly into an ElCo. Remember, it's a CHEVELLE.

 

Hey Joe,

Yeah I have a C10, still looking for some frame mounts from a diesel... but I do have some frame mounts now, but I think i'd have to weld them, or drill new holes because I think they are from a 76 Delta 88...

 

I was afraid my thoughts might not be clear enough. Easy route is usually best. But like what was mentioned "finding Diesel frame mounts might not be so easy"
I was not suggesting using El Camino(or any other mounts) as being usable as is. Just that with some effort and cutting/welding it can be overcome.
Thanks Joe for the mount info!



http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=452193&page=9

This guy has a C10 with some fabbed frame mounts. Seems like he wants to redo them. The style he has looks real similar to the V8 Volvo conversion mounts I have on my wife's car.
3/8th plate bent to needed shape.

I'm not the guy with the answers, just questions!

 

Joe thanks a lot for this awesome post. I just bought a set from inline tube and was mad that I needed to spend $45. So once they arrive I'm sending them right back because I got a much cheaper set from Rock auto. Keep up the awesome work.

 

I know this is an old post but I have a question. I am converting from a 350 to a 455 in a 72 Cutlass. The motor is out of a 73 Delta I believe. I have acquired the 455 frame mints and I have the 2328 minutes from Anchor. This 73 motor had spacers and longer bolts on one of the mounts (right hand side). I assume that these spacers are not needed on the A body....is that correct? Second, my donor engine had heat shields on both sides. Does anyone know what is correct / required for this engine in a 72? The manual calls for a shield on the left side only. Is that right?

 

Correct. No spacers on A-body cars.

The manual shows what is correct for a 1972 A-body. I will say that I've run these cars successfully without the heat shields (which can make it a PITA to get the bolt into the motor mount).

 

Hey, Joe, Here's a question that is not answered in this thread, though it may have been answered elsewhere (I'm asking this for Bill, the kid in NC):

For a '75-'79 X-body that came with a V6 (presumably a Buick V6), are the frame mounts the same, or do they have to be changed or modified to accommodate an Olds motor?

I know that the "C"-Division's mounts are different, but not sure about Buick.

Thanks,

- Eric

 

With a very limited number of exceptions, every GM division's motors used unique motor and frame mounts that do not interchange. The 75-79 X-body cars need the frame mounts used with the Olds 260 motor and the matching 2328 motor mounts. The exception here is that since the 75-79 cars use a subframe that's very similar to the one under the second-gen F-body cars, you MIGHT be able to use the Chevy clamshell frame mounts with the Olds motor brackets from a 403 Trans Am.

 

Thanks, Joe, that's what I had ASSumed, but I thought there could always be a chance that they'd come out with some sort of near-universal style, since they put so many motors in essentially identical cars, and were trying very hard to standardize at that point.

Good thought on the T/A mounts, too, though not directly relevant to this particular case.

- Eric

 

Actually, it might be. T/A brackets and Chevy clamshell mounts are probably MUCH easier to find than 260 frame mounts.

 

Ah, yes, good point.

I don't think I've even seen one of these cars in ten or fifteen years, so having seen one with a 260 in it would have been even more unusual.

I ASSume mounts cut off of an earlier A-body frame would be wrong because the distance between the rails was probably different, but do you have any idea whether mounts from the earlier X-body series would work?

- Eric

 

I have no idea. The only info I have is that people have adapted the second-gen F-body subframe to first-gen F-body cars, so maybe the crossmember isn't that different, but keep in mind that the 73-74 Omegas were rear steer and used the front two motor mount bolt holes on the block. The 75-79 cars are front steer and use the back two holes. I have no idea how this relates to the use of frame mounts or whether they are interchangeable.

 

Good information. I know nothing about X-bodies, so I'm in the dark, but you've given me enough to be able to at least begin to guide Bill in the right direction.

His life would probably be easier and cheaper if he stuck with a Buick motor, but half the fun is getting there, no?

- Eric

 

Hey guys,

I see the application list starts with 1964. What about mounts for the pre-64 Olds? Don't tell me I have to send mine somewhere to be reconditioned. I've got a 63 Ninety Eight LS. I looked around and it looks like the front engine mount can only be found at Kanter or Fusick. The price discrepancy in the rear/transmission mounts from Kanter (92.00 for 2) to Rockauto (just under 8.00 each) is quite substantial which makes me leary of the soo much cheaper Rockauto mounts. I've also researched for upgraded poly type mounts and again nothing for my year. It seems most manufacturers like to start with 1964. Any suggestions or insight?

 

So if I can find the mounts for my car as listed above I can just bolt in and go?

 

The mounts that bolt to the motor are easy.

The mounts that are riveted to the frame will be harder.

You won't be able to just buy those - you'll have to find them in a junk car.
Then you'll have to drill / grind / burn / cut the rivets off.
Then you'll have to locate them on your frame.
Then you'll have to drill holes in your frame and mount them with Grade 8 nuts and bolts.

- Eric

 

Actually, the frame-side mounts are bolted to the frame, not riveted.

This is why I suggested the Chevy clamshell mounts. These put the rubber on the frame side, and since the rubber does deteriorate, replacements are readily available. Anchor P/N 2387 are used on the 403 Trans Am as well as on a bazillion Chevy applications,



The 403 block-side brackets to mate with these are also pretty readily available. People who are pulling the 403s out of their Pontiacs sell them all the time on ebay, and reproductions are also available.

 

Ahhhhhh... I did not know that.

Looks like an excellent solution, though locating them could be tricky unless the frame was dimpled at the right spots.

- Eric

 

FWIW, after purchasing motor mounts for my '70 442 thru Supercars Unlimited I have been on the hunt for more correct appearing mounts.

Using Joe's above application information I stumbled acrossed Westar EM-2328 motor mounts that are closely styled in appearance to GM 406436 NOS mounts, note the oval thru hole. These can be purchased thru RockAuto for around $5.84 ea.

GM 406436 NOS motor mounts
406436_zps45a7ee86.jpg

Westar EM-2328 motor mounts
WESTAREM-2328_zps931ffcbe.jpg

 

Joe what's your take on these i bought them for my 69 and they are USA made but do you think they are the correct height etc?

 

I purchased a 455 core engine from Craigslist and it had these bolted to the block. I was guessing they were for the clamshell rubber mounts, but the funny bends in the top don't really look right. I don't need them but until I know the application I won't be able to offer them up for sale. Joe, or anybody else recognize these? John

DSCN0629.jpg

DSCN0630.jpg

DSCN0632.jpg

 

Yeah, they USED to look like this:



Those are part of the 403 Trans Am mounts. They are missing the bar that spans the three Olds motor mount bolt holes. Apparently some ham-fisted P.O. beat them into submission without the proper mounting hardware.

The complete T/A mount looks like this:

 

Thanks Joe
I was thinking the funny shape on top was factory. But your photos make it clear that they're not suppose to be shaped that way!

John

 

Joe,

I just dropped my motor and trans into the frame of my 69 442 and using Fusick mounts and am having issues getting the holes to line up for the second mount bolt. The holes are off by probably about 1/4". I tried a combination of things such as lifting at different points on the motor to see if the weight shift would work but to no avail. From the looks of it, the mount itself is resting on the crossmember and there is no way to force the holes to line up. Just curious if you were aware of any problems with these mounts.

http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts....number=31-2328

I will give it another look tomorrow but thanks for any feedback

Sean

 

The mounts could be off but not likely,try to remove or loosen the mount to block bolts the put the thru bolts thru the frame mount, there is hardly any play in the engine mounts

 

Timing is amazing. I had purchased a set of mounts from my local O'reilly store for one of my 67 cars and they were wrong. This thread helped correct that.

Thanks Joe for your knowledge and sharing it.

Larry

 

Sean,

This is common due to manufacturing tolerances, as the Chinesium motor mounts available today just aren't as well controlled dimensionally as factory parts. I usually leave the bolts from the motor mount to the block loose until I get the motor mounts bolted to the frame mounts. The added wiggle room usually solves this problem.

I even had a problem where one mount (not from Fusick) had the holes to the block mis-drilled. I had to slot one with a die grinder to get it to fit.

 

Just to clarify:

You read this thread and bought Fusick mounts #31-23238 for $25.50 each:




and not Anchor mounts #2328 from Amazon for $6.19:




or from O'Reilly for $5:99:




To each his own.

- Eric

 

Thanks so much for this thread. I needed one new mount for my 66 project, ordered the 2238 from RockAuto, as that is what they have listed for a 66. Wrong..... picked up a 2261 from Autozone for $4.99 fit perfectly!

 

I bought the mounts from Fusick prior to reading this thread. It was part of a large order so i didnt research alternatives. Lesson learned. Thanks

Sean

 

Yeah, I've found that if I have to sneeze, I should search on CO first, because there is probably a thread here about how to do it better.

I could see them marking them up to $10 (since they probably wholesale for $3), but $25 is nuts.

- Eric

 

I finally got them to fit after some grinding on the tabs and loosening the bolts going to the engine as you guys suggested. Took some elbow grease as well. I hope not to have to do this again as it was a major PITA!

Sean

 

The problem I see with aftermarket engine mounts, is they are simply not correct for the A-body with the 455. The common Anchor A2328 mount is correct for the 88 and 98, not for the A-body. The parts book says P/N 406436 for the F-85, '69 w/400, and '70-'72 w/455, and P/N 417137 for the '71 on 88 and 98. As far as I can tell the A2328 is a match to the 417137 which is used on many applications. The 406436 is unique to the 69 to 72 big block F-85. I attached a photo of the two mounts side by side. The one with the red stripe is correct for the F-85 which I purchased in the late 70's, and the other is the current aftermarket. Notice the location of the side hole which bolts to the chassis mount.

When I attempted to use the aftermarket, the engine sits high, the fan blades hits the shroud, and if I try to close the hood it will crush the OAI on my '71 W-30. Not good.

Why don't the Fusicks and Supercars recognize this and reproduce the correct mount. It is the same as the A2328, but the side hole need to be relocated.
I have taken the aftermarket, plugged and welded the holes shut, re-drilled them in the proper location, and have been using them without problems for years now.
But it would be far better, if they were properly reproduced.

 

will frame side mounts from a 75 bolt to my 66 frame and hold the engine in the correct spot?

 

Unfortunately, I don't have any first-hand experience with the 73-77 frame mounts. I do know that they are designed for the 2328 motor mounts, whereas the original mounts in your 66 would have been designed for 2261 motor mounts. Why do you want to change the mounts in your 66, anyway? They were used with both BBO and SBO from the factory.