I bought a set of upper and lower tubular control arms (new in box) off Craigslist a few years ago that sold from KMJ performance that were manufactured in 2011. I see they no longer sell this style and was wondering if anyone had any familiarity with this brand or company. I may have jumped the gun on this and didn't do enough research before I pulled the trigger. In hindsight, I would have waited and went with a more known reputable company such as UMI, Hotchkis, BMR or Global West. I'm afraid I've got a cheap set that I may have to sell on... I have a receipt from the buyer of $349.99 in 2011. Found a couple of YouTube video's on them

 

Looks like the standard Hotchkis knock-off. You can find them under a whole bunch of different brand names. Just do your own QC.
Make sure the welds are good.
Make sure the bushings are good. The set in mine looked like they were carved with a pocket knife.
The real kicker with my set is the lower balljoint hole was too small, causing the balljoint to bind. I wrote down the ideal measurement somewhere..... I think it's supposed to be a 3 thou fit, although that's harder to measure with current balljoints that have the huge knurling and are usually oversize anyway.
Those brick bump stops are f'n worthless. Get the big stepped cone one from Energy Suspension and cut it down to the correct height.
Note that I only got the lowers. No idea what all else might be wrong with the uppers.

 

So far I just have the uppers installed on my car. Everything went together fine and the front end aligned well. I tried to use the lowers but discovered that the ball joint mount contacted the drum brake backing plate. If I had disc brakes the lower arms would have fit fine. I have less than 1000 miles on the uppers with no problems or squeaks. I installed the lowers and they fit well in the frame but removed them when the ball joint mount rubbed. I had to change all the zerks to right angle so I could grease them in place. The spring mount is lowered so they will lower the front of the car without drop springs or drop spindles.

 

I have the same ones. They will benifits from taller ball joints. I went with proforged .9 taller units. For me they allowed the proper front end travel for drag racing but even for cornering the taller ball joints will help. Those bump stops on the uppers are too big too. I replaced them as well.

 

You'll have disc backing plate interference if you use tall lower joints. Only took me a few months of grinding noises at full turn lock to realize WTF was happening. You can grind the snot out of the outer lower portion of the balljoint pocket to clear.

 

I used tall uppers only. I had to cut the backing plate to fit in but I might be the only guy running manual drums in the front with tubular control arms