Tools needed for front end rebuild?
January 4th, 2010, 02:28 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 157
Tools needed for front end rebuild?
Hello Old(s) Friends,
The next project on the old gal is a front end suspension/steering rebuild and front drum to disc brake conversion. I have a floor jack, stands and a decent selection of hand tools but what are some of the other tools I’ll need for this endeavor? Pickle fork? Spring compressor? What about the control arm bushings having to be pressed in/out? Is there a tool for that or is it a machine shop deal? Any little tricks of the trade, helpful hints or on-line links are much appreciated. From other threads I’ve read, I know I’ll need a bigger hammer and to keep the kids out of the area as there will be much cussing involved. Thanks, Rob
The next project on the old gal is a front end suspension/steering rebuild and front drum to disc brake conversion. I have a floor jack, stands and a decent selection of hand tools but what are some of the other tools I’ll need for this endeavor? Pickle fork? Spring compressor? What about the control arm bushings having to be pressed in/out? Is there a tool for that or is it a machine shop deal? Any little tricks of the trade, helpful hints or on-line links are much appreciated. From other threads I’ve read, I know I’ll need a bigger hammer and to keep the kids out of the area as there will be much cussing involved. Thanks, Rob
January 4th, 2010, 06:50 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dallas
Posts: 651
I had a shop press all bushings and lower ball joints. They did it all for $40. I rented a spring compressor from the local parts store (O' Reilly's), for the install. They hold the deposit and return the deposit when tool is returned. I got all MOOG parts from RockAuto.com, and disk kit from CCP. I did this all about a year ago. Let me know if you have any questions. You can do it!
January 4th, 2010, 08:16 PM
#4
Gary
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 1,205
When I made the conversion to disk brakes, I also used Moog parts from Oreilly's. The lower ball joints had to be pressed in and the control arms bushings also had to be pressed in. I took them over to a friends house who had some type of pressing tool. I tried using two different types of spring compressors, but I could not get either one to work on the front. so what I did was to take my floor jack and position it under the lower control arms and jack it up enough to where I could bolt the spindles onto the ball joints.Maybe I was using the wrong string compressor.I also did not have to use a ball joint separator because I just whacked the old ball joint on the nut and it released.
January 5th, 2010, 09:19 AM
#5
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,663
While a press (and the special Kent-Moore tools) make it much easier, I have rebuilt many A-body front ends with nothing more than a hammer, bench vice, and some large diameter sockets (or correctly sized thickwall pipe). Of course you will need a pickle fork (actually two different ones) to separate the ball joints and tie rod ends.
The upper ball joint is riveted to the control arm, so grind or drill out the rivets and the ball joint comes off. The replacement will have nuts and bolts.
The lower ball joint is removed with a small sledge hammer. Open the jaws of the bench vice just enough so that the control arm sits on top of the vice but the lower part of the ball joint fits through the opening. Depending on how badly worn the ball joint is, I've been able to wail on the end of the stud and work it loose. Failing that, use a section of pipe that just fits on the upper part of the ball joint housing. Reverse the process to install the new one. I have large sockets that are just the right size for pushing on the outer rim of the new ball joint. Flip the control arm over on the vice, insert the ball joint (I use a little grease on the mating surfaces) and hammer away.
The big problem is always removing the rubber bushings. The force of the rubber pushing on the ID of the sleeve makes it tough to get these out. The easiest (and messiest) method is to burn the rubber out with a torch (propane works) first, then collapse the sleeve with a hammer and punch so it falls out. The burning rubber makes a smokey mess, so you have to do this outside over a metal container. It usually takes lacquer thinner to remove the sooty, oily residue from the control arms. Other folks have claimed success by using a drill or a roto-zip tool to cut the rubber out. I have not tried that method, but it should work.
Reinstallation of the bushings is similar to the ball joints. Use a little grease on the mating surface, then install it in the control arm and hammer away using the correct size socket or pipe. On the lower arms, you need to wedge a piece of wood or angle iron between the two walls where the bushings go so as not to bend them during installation. On the uppers, recognize that the shaft needs to be in place as you install the bushings.
One final trick on reassembly is to be sure the weight of the car is on the springs (suspension at normal ride height) when you torque the bolts and nuts that compress the bushings. This locks the rubber in at a certain position. If done with the suspension hanging, the car will not sit right and the rubber will be overstressed.
The upper ball joint is riveted to the control arm, so grind or drill out the rivets and the ball joint comes off. The replacement will have nuts and bolts.
The lower ball joint is removed with a small sledge hammer. Open the jaws of the bench vice just enough so that the control arm sits on top of the vice but the lower part of the ball joint fits through the opening. Depending on how badly worn the ball joint is, I've been able to wail on the end of the stud and work it loose. Failing that, use a section of pipe that just fits on the upper part of the ball joint housing. Reverse the process to install the new one. I have large sockets that are just the right size for pushing on the outer rim of the new ball joint. Flip the control arm over on the vice, insert the ball joint (I use a little grease on the mating surfaces) and hammer away.
The big problem is always removing the rubber bushings. The force of the rubber pushing on the ID of the sleeve makes it tough to get these out. The easiest (and messiest) method is to burn the rubber out with a torch (propane works) first, then collapse the sleeve with a hammer and punch so it falls out. The burning rubber makes a smokey mess, so you have to do this outside over a metal container. It usually takes lacquer thinner to remove the sooty, oily residue from the control arms. Other folks have claimed success by using a drill or a roto-zip tool to cut the rubber out. I have not tried that method, but it should work.
Reinstallation of the bushings is similar to the ball joints. Use a little grease on the mating surface, then install it in the control arm and hammer away using the correct size socket or pipe. On the lower arms, you need to wedge a piece of wood or angle iron between the two walls where the bushings go so as not to bend them during installation. On the uppers, recognize that the shaft needs to be in place as you install the bushings.
One final trick on reassembly is to be sure the weight of the car is on the springs (suspension at normal ride height) when you torque the bolts and nuts that compress the bushings. This locks the rubber in at a certain position. If done with the suspension hanging, the car will not sit right and the rubber will be overstressed.
January 5th, 2010, 12:45 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,257
I would never use a hammer.
Press only - less chance of damage.
Press only - less chance of damage.
While a press (and the special Kent-Moore tools) make it much easier, I have rebuilt many A-body front ends with nothing more than a hammer, bench vice, and some large diameter sockets (or correctly sized thickwall pipe). Of course you will need a pickle fork (actually two different ones) to separate the ball joints and tie rod ends.
The upper ball joint is riveted to the control arm, so grind or drill out the rivets and the ball joint comes off. The replacement will have nuts and bolts.
The lower ball joint is removed with a small sledge hammer. Open the jaws of the bench vice just enough so that the control arm sits on top of the vice but the lower part of the ball joint fits through the opening. Depending on how badly worn the ball joint is, I've been able to wail on the end of the stud and work it loose. Failing that, use a section of pipe that just fits on the upper part of the ball joint housing. Reverse the process to install the new one. I have large sockets that are just the right size for pushing on the outer rim of the new ball joint. Flip the control arm over on the vice, insert the ball joint (I use a little grease on the mating surfaces) and hammer away.
The big problem is always removing the rubber bushings. The force of the rubber pushing on the ID of the sleeve makes it tough to get these out. The easiest (and messiest) method is to burn the rubber out with a torch (propane works) first, then collapse the sleeve with a hammer and punch so it falls out. The burning rubber makes a smokey mess, so you have to do this outside over a metal container. It usually takes lacquer thinner to remove the sooty, oily residue from the control arms. Other folks have claimed success by using a drill or a roto-zip tool to cut the rubber out. I have not tried that method, but it should work.
Reinstallation of the bushings is similar to the ball joints. Use a little grease on the mating surface, then install it in the control arm and hammer away using the correct size socket or pipe. On the lower arms, you need to wedge a piece of wood or angle iron between the two walls where the bushings go so as not to bend them during installation. On the uppers, recognize that the shaft needs to be in place as you install the bushings.
One final trick on reassembly is to be sure the weight of the car is on the springs (suspension at normal ride height) when you torque the bolts and nuts that compress the bushings. This locks the rubber in at a certain position. If done with the suspension hanging, the car will not sit right and the rubber will be overstressed.
The upper ball joint is riveted to the control arm, so grind or drill out the rivets and the ball joint comes off. The replacement will have nuts and bolts.
The lower ball joint is removed with a small sledge hammer. Open the jaws of the bench vice just enough so that the control arm sits on top of the vice but the lower part of the ball joint fits through the opening. Depending on how badly worn the ball joint is, I've been able to wail on the end of the stud and work it loose. Failing that, use a section of pipe that just fits on the upper part of the ball joint housing. Reverse the process to install the new one. I have large sockets that are just the right size for pushing on the outer rim of the new ball joint. Flip the control arm over on the vice, insert the ball joint (I use a little grease on the mating surfaces) and hammer away.
The big problem is always removing the rubber bushings. The force of the rubber pushing on the ID of the sleeve makes it tough to get these out. The easiest (and messiest) method is to burn the rubber out with a torch (propane works) first, then collapse the sleeve with a hammer and punch so it falls out. The burning rubber makes a smokey mess, so you have to do this outside over a metal container. It usually takes lacquer thinner to remove the sooty, oily residue from the control arms. Other folks have claimed success by using a drill or a roto-zip tool to cut the rubber out. I have not tried that method, but it should work.
Reinstallation of the bushings is similar to the ball joints. Use a little grease on the mating surface, then install it in the control arm and hammer away using the correct size socket or pipe. On the lower arms, you need to wedge a piece of wood or angle iron between the two walls where the bushings go so as not to bend them during installation. On the uppers, recognize that the shaft needs to be in place as you install the bushings.
One final trick on reassembly is to be sure the weight of the car is on the springs (suspension at normal ride height) when you torque the bolts and nuts that compress the bushings. This locks the rubber in at a certain position. If done with the suspension hanging, the car will not sit right and the rubber will be overstressed.
January 5th, 2010, 05:54 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 157
Well it looks like I have my plan of action. I have found a youtube video showing the c-arm bushings being pressed out with short piece of pipe and also one using the torch method. I'll also check some local shops to see what they say. This will also give me an excuse to buy a vice which I've been needing anyway. Any excuse for some new tools! Now if I could just get that compressor and air wrenches that Santa forgot this year 
. I got all MOOG components at Rockauto. They had the best prices and it's easy to find a 5% discount code by just googling it. I ordered the stuff at 3 pm on Dec 31st and it was at my house via fedex on Saturday morning Jan 2nd. How's that for quick?!?! So thanks to all ya'll for the tips, insights and encouragements and I'll have some pics to go on here soon. Rob
. I got all MOOG components at Rockauto. They had the best prices and it's easy to find a 5% discount code by just googling it. I ordered the stuff at 3 pm on Dec 31st and it was at my house via fedex on Saturday morning Jan 2nd. How's that for quick?!?! So thanks to all ya'll for the tips, insights and encouragements and I'll have some pics to go on here soon. Rob
January 6th, 2010, 07:50 AM
#10
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,663
January 6th, 2010, 04:44 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 157
A hammer does wonders in some situations. I printed out your instructions also so that will help with the install. If you're not busy and want to come on down to Texas I could use the help. We do have a cold front this weekend though where our highs will only be in the 30's and 40's. But I'm sure that's considered balmy where you're from this time of year. Thanks again....
January 7th, 2010, 08:53 AM
#12
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,663
January 7th, 2010, 09:32 AM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
I will be needing to do my front end soon and it is the same style car as yours. I will be doing it by myself and so far only have front suspension rebuild experience on the Ford rack and pinion setup. The GM A body steering is quite a bit different.
January 7th, 2010, 06:54 PM
#14
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 157
Please post pictures and perhaps even a write up of the process.
I will be needing to do my front end soon and it is the same style car as yours. I will be doing it by myself and so far only have front suspension rebuild experience on the Ford rack and pinion setup. The GM A body steering is quite a bit different.
I will be needing to do my front end soon and it is the same style car as yours. I will be doing it by myself and so far only have front suspension rebuild experience on the Ford rack and pinion setup. The GM A body steering is quite a bit different.
....Rob
January 8th, 2010, 05:33 AM
#15
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
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