Hey guys, I'm trying to collect some tools to help start my resto of my 68 442. I could really use some help on choosing brands cause I HATE buying lemons. So here's a list of tools I'm lookin for, what brands do you suggest and are there any other basic tools I'm missing that you would suggest? Maybe a shop? Thanks!

2+ ton jack
Jack Stands
Torque Wrench (mainly for engine/suspension work)
Pressure Gauge set
Hammer/Dolly Kit
Diagrams (where can I find color wiring diagrams?)
Manuals
Spring Removal Tool
Shim Measuring Device

Anything I'm missing? I got the basics: wrenches, screw drivers, orbital sander, ratchet set (1/4, 1/2, 3/8), brake line wrenches

 

For brands I say Craftsman, Matco, or Snap-on. I've worked with all 3 brands and they are great. I would however stay away from Craftsman jacks. I have one, and it's only OK.

Are you doing anything to the motor? If you are you could use engine tools, and an air rachet and air drill helps too

 

2+ ton jack
-They are almost all throw away junk these days. Buy a light weight aluminum one so you can pick it up without breaking your back when its time to throw it in the trash

Jack Stands
-any good quality HD stands

Torque Wrench (mainly for engine/suspension work)
- don't skimp here...buy a Snap On

Pressure Gauge set
-??? pressure for....what do you need this for???

Hammer/Dolly Kit
-buy a good one off a tool truck expect to spend some $$$ 300-500.00 for a good set. Watch Ebay and Craigslist for used sets.

Diagrams (where can I find color wiring diagrams?)
Manuals
EBAY or resto parts places sell both

Spring Removal Tool
-what springs? Lots of springs in a car. Valves, hood, suspension, trunk, door ect all require different tools

Shim Measuring Device
-cheap set of dial calipers will take care of almost anything you need

Anything I'm missing?
-torch or plumber's bottle at a minimum...lots of rusty stuck bolts in an old car that loosen right up with a little heat.
-welders and air compressors don't buy until you can buy what you need for long term use. Buy too small because its all you can afford at the time you will be buying again in the future. Been there done that. Save until you can get what will work for you use.

I got the basics: wrenches, screw drivers, orbital sander, ratchet set (1/4, 1/2, 3/8), brake line wrenches

 

I strongly recommend having at least 2 of every wrench. 1 just doesn't cut it sometimes. I also recommend not to have too many in one cabinet. I have so many friggin wrenches I can't even find the little ones (5/16 for example) without taking 7 or 8 1/2'' wrenches out of the pile first lol.
Let me know if you need some extras, I have some I'll let go for 50cents a pop, just cuz they're in the way of everything.

Those adjustable Flashlights that come with cordless drill kits are worth their weight in gold.
No burns, no bulbs, no more holding flashlights in your mouth while you sawzall exhaust.
Great source of iron , however.

 

Thanks alot for all your guys' help so far. Keep em comin!

 

Dont' forget WD-40, and a good stick magnet.......

 

As far as 2 ton jacks go...I'll second the aluminum suggestion.
I bought a Jegs 2 ton and it's been great. I keep it in my trunk.

And as far as tools, I just buy craftsmen. They certainly aren't the best,
BUT, if they break, which they don't do very often, it's a no questions
free return. I return my torque wrench once every 2 years just because
know it losses calibration.

 

I'll chime in a little. On the jack stands I'd go with Harbor Freight.

On the body tools you could start with a set from HF, $16 - $25. They've also got a few body spoons as well. For a mid-range set NAPA has a nice set. I think I gave $100 or so for mine. Start with either of these, then add hammers, dollies & spoons from Martin Tools. Martin body tools are about the best you can buy.

You'll need a good long board sander if you're going to do bodywork. And a 5" for roughing down bondo.

Pick up a good 4-1/2 grinder. Good for grinding the heads off bolts that won't come loose any other way.

Proto make some good torque wrenches.

Don

 

Thought of two more. A good timing light. And if you are keeping the points distributor you'll need a dwell meter. Mine are Craftsman and work good.

Don

 

Spend the money and get a cheap distributor wrench ( I think yours is 9/16 ) I cant tell you how many times I tried to make a distributor wrench out of 1 ratchet, 5 extensions and 1 socket, only to break apart and land on top of the transmission case.

 

Lots of good info here. Unfortunately your tool budget will need to be substantial because you need lots of stuff and often two of things. For example, I have two torque wrenches. One is a craftsman 20 - 250 ft.lb., the other up to 250 in-lbs. When your doing the oil pump, upper ball joint, oil pan or trans pan you'll want to hit the lower torque ratings. I torque everything important including lug nuts. I've got four jack stands under my cutlass now. Sometimes I jack it up to put on four (opposed) car ramps. I call that my poor mans lift. I've got two decent floor jacks. Essential for tire rotation. Gearheads78 is correct about the compressor and welder. I'm on my second of each. I've also used my sawsall, cut-off wheel, air drill, open shoe grinder, engine hoist, engine stand, and impact wrench on this vehicle. If you have a convertible you will also need a pneumatic staple gun. I have three spring compressors now because every application seems to need something different. You'll need my latest one which is an internal type with fishhook like bent retainers. A variety of ball joint, pitman arm, pulley/steering wheel pullers etc. for the same reason. I just purchased my second tube bender because the first one couldn't handle tight enough radii for the disc conversion with relocated proportioning valve. The basics also come in all varieties and unfortunately nothing fits all. Deep or shallow sockets, flexible, 12, or 6 point. Open end, boxed, offset boxed, line wrenches.... they are all necessary and all cost $. I'm not trying to depress you. You will have them all in time. Every job requires the right tool. Just buy quality when you need something new, and justify it by assuming you'll have it for life.

P.S. I've often thought that on a budget a complete metric 6 point socket set and combination wrench set will get you through most anything. (I realize I've opened myself up bigtime with that last statement)

 

I use a lot of crafsman tools. All you guys have great suggestions with the bigger tools. We have a mom and pop shop called Clarks Tool and Supply where I got my 3 ton jack and stands. Have purchased many engine tools, hones, pullers, valve tools etc. You might look local for a shop like that.

When junkyard hunting, any cordless tool is worth its wieght....sawzall, drill, comes to mind here.

Some of the most important tools I have a are quite small. May I suggest this craftsman 6lb telescoping magnet-which is very strong!!, a small inspection mirror and this little tool that grips small screws (points) and has a magnet on the other end. Also one of those cheap 3 fingered grabber things....for picking up lost nuts and things when you cant get your hand in there....or where you don't dare (yuck!) to reach it.

 

Ah come on, ya gotta' reach right in there.

Another suggestion but not a tool. I take an "Auto Restoration" class at a local community college. I get to use their welders, air compressor, air tools, paint guns, spray booth and heated shop! Plus the instructor has 30+ years bodywork experience. Just a thought.

Don

 

if your looking for Wiring Diagrams this Place has TONS, I think they are all free but they are not in color they just write the color (which I think is almost better):

http://pbraig.com/Automotive/M1Wirin...ng/1970dwd.htm

you can select different years from the drop down to the right of the page.

 

Diagrams (where can I find color wiring diagrams?)


www.ClassicCarWiring.com


This is the only way to go.
Carl - Dallas

 

>>Those adjustable Flashlights that come with cordless drill kits are worth their weight in gold.


I agree 100% here... I have one from B&D and it is great. They also had a fluorecent model that has worked great for me in difficult places. And being 18V, they last a long time per charge and since all of my tools use the same battery, so there is a good supply of charged ones. I even got the vacuum, which has kept my work area cleaner (no room for a shop vac in my crowded garage.)

For plug-in-the-wall trouble lights, use a 23W (100W equivalent) compact fluorecent bulb in it (GE or walmart brand). Color and light is just like a regular bulb. However, it will not burn you, survives vibration and small drops, and will not melt carpet or seats when left on a surface. Just make sure there is a protective cage around the bulb as it is still made of glass...

 

I guess if this works for you, great, but for the same price you can buy a used Chassis Service Manual that includes not only a color wiring diagram but also EVERYTHING else you need to work on the car. The CSM should be the first "tool" you buy.

 

They say the second oldest profession is Inn Keeper because the oldest profession needed a place to go. So you will need a garage to house your tools and Oldsmobiles. In my experience, after you plan it,double the size. It will most likely still be too small when when you finish construction.

BUY A FIRE EXTINGUISHER AND KEEP IT WHERE YOU CAN GET TO IT IN A HURRY

Here are some pics of my recycled garage, we took down a pole barn [with prefab trusses] hauled everthing [including plywood decking] to my property and rebuilt it. Then we added siding from some other older buildings we took down. The metal roof, concrete floor, peg board and doors are the only thing we had to buy.

I even save pimento jars and mayo jars for storage I can see easily.

And yes, it's too small

 

Everyone is WRONG! Craftsman, Snap-On, Matco, etc. They are all JUNK! I only use tools made from 100% pure Chineseium!

 

I heard that have a bunch of spies in New York city scaping old chewing gum off the sidewalks and then they ship it back to China and make that stuff from it.

 

Lab experiments have proven that all of the metals extracted by burning PC boards (nickel, lead, mercury, gold, tin, etc.) have been all found in similar proportions in cheap Chinese made jewelry...

Soooo, we ship our old electronics to China for "recycling". Young children bust it open and burn it along the streets to collect the metals that melt away. This metal mass is carried over to little home-based "factories" and melted & molded into jewelry. It then comes back to the US and is sold in the dollar stores.
The result? A computer ring can be had for just a dollar...

 

But seriously, I actually buy all my Craftsman tools at swap meets now. The cheaper the better, since you can still take any broken Craftsman hand tool back to Sears and get a new one at any time.

 

That is a good idea Joe. Truthfully, I usually buy Craftsman as well. Snap-On is just as good though. However, I have heard Snap-On tools are a bit more pricey.

 

Obviously the tools you will need depend on what you see as something you want to take on or discover needing attention along the way. There is never an end to buying tools. I have well over $20,000 invested in tools and still find myself sometimes needing a tool I don't have.

Don't rely on the el cheapo 2 ton jacks from the likes of Wal-Mart or Autozone. They are all crap and can be dangerous. The old Craftsman floor jacks made in the USA are good, only the ones made in China are crap and will leak down.

I didn't see any type of impact wrench. The 1/2 drive 24V battery units are good. 3/8 drive 14V or 18V are good for light work but don't expect to break any large bolts loose with them. Of course there are times nothing replaces air impact tools.

You will likely also need an in/lb torque torque wrench if you are going to be doing upper engine work. You didn't list any socket sets, but you will need 1/2" down to 1/4" drive sets along with 1-1/2" to 12" extensions for all sizes and possibly one set of swivel extensions for your 3/8 drive sockets. Brands? Craftsman is good, Stanley (which produces Snap-on) is good, and though some might cringe, I have yet to break a Great Neck tool or a Blackhawk tool, either of which are less expensive than many other brands yet have lifetime warranty just like Craftsman and Snap-on. I assume you have a decent assortment of open end, box, or combination wrenches. You will need them if you don't have them.

You can find all the references you need on eBay including shop manuals and wiring diagrams. You may also from time to time find GM specialty tools for a given car on eBay.

 

Well, maybe a 3/4 inch drive socket with a four foot breaker bar but.........

 

I was going to say a torch...

Actually, the impact wrench does have some benefits over brute torque or a cutting torch. As an example, take the exhaust manifold flange bolts on my Custom Cruiser. A longer breaker bar would have just snapped them off. The impact wrench actually broke the rust loose and got them all out intact. Pulling a rusty exhaust manifold (particularly the RH SBO with the crossover) is NOT one of my favorite things.

 

Yeah, probably one of the worst jobs on a car and you are right. There is a definite advantage to an impact wrench over brute force. I was trying to be cute I guess....

 

......b-e-e-r........

 

Of course!!

Now a cordless Dremel tool would be a good addition.
The small wire brushes make tight-area rust removal effortless and the cutting wheels are great for cutting off stripped, rusty, or rounded bolts or similar work.
I had this Dremel on my shelf in the garage for 10 years and it is finally getting used... I got a big attachment kit at harbor freight for 15 bucks and so far the quality of this cheap stuff is not too bad. I notched a motor shaft sucessfully yesterday with the mill attachment (I was expecting it to disintegrate the tool instead.)

Make sure a pair of safety glasses is part of your shop arsenal also.

 

plasma cutter............a dream I know but maybe someday.......