Tie rod end adjusting

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Old Jun 1, 2025 | 02:35 AM
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Tie rod end adjusting

Friends, I have a request for advice. 1966 Olds Delta 88, I am trying to align the steering, the geometry of the front axle, I aligned the steering wheel (the factory marking of the centering under the cover is correct, I adjusted the steering rods on the driver's side (toe-in - 2 mm)on the passenger side, but I can't turn the steering rod = the screw on the engine side is tight, I cleaned it, applied WD40 release agent, tapped it lightly with two hammers = nothing I need to screw the rod at the steering ball joint (at the wheel) more (I have more toe-in on the passenger side) should I remove the wheel stud or do you have any ideas how to loosen the adjustment? Thanks


Old Jun 1, 2025 | 03:45 AM
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Have you tried a big channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench to turn the adj barrel?
Old Jun 1, 2025 | 04:50 AM
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Do you have a tie rod adjusting wrench? I have one similar to this. The points fit into the slot in the adjusting sleeve. There are multiple possible orientations to avoid obstructions. I find that spraying penetrating oil into the slot ahead of time makes a big difference.




Old Jun 1, 2025 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Do you have a tie rod adjusting wrench? I have one similar to this. The points fit into the slot in the adjusting sleeve. There are multiple possible orientations to avoid obstructions. I find that spraying penetrating oil into the slot ahead of time makes a big difference.



I thought about heating the sleeve, but this tool looks good, I'll try to look for it at the hardware store. Thanks for the tip
Old Jun 1, 2025 | 10:07 AM
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You won't find it at a hardware store. You MIGHT find one in a real auto parts store.
Old Jun 1, 2025 | 11:15 AM
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You may want to try spreading the clamp and or the sleeve.
You only need a millimeter or two. I use a square shanked large flat blade screw driver with an open end wrench to twist.

Two pipe wrenches will suffice like Eric mentions, unless you can source the tool tool Joe shows.

WD40 is not the best penetrant for breaking rust, Kroil, PB Blaster, Castles "Thrust" are designed for this purpose.
Old Jun 1, 2025 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by droldsmorland
You may want to try spreading the clamp and or the sleeve.
You only need a millimeter or two. I use a square shanked large flat blade screw driver with an open end wrench to twist.

Two pipe wrenches will suffice like Eric mentions, unless you can source the tool tool Joe shows.

WD40 is not the best penetrant for breaking rust, Kroil, PB Blaster, Castles "Thrust" are designed for this purpose.
I use wd40 specialized penetrant, I would have to order a special tool like Joe wrote, it is not used much here in Europe, but I can try this one (photo)


Old Jun 2, 2025 | 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by LuckyLuke
I use wd40 specialized penetrant, I would have to order a special tool like Joe wrote, it is not used much here in Europe, but I can try this one (photo)
Not the correct tool. It will slip off the sleeve when you start to put any serious force on it. Note that the handle even says that it is for nuts in the 2" to 4.75" range. Your tie rod sleeve is about 3/4".
Old Jun 5, 2025 | 05:03 AM
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you learn all your life

I have a question 1966 Olds Delta 88 Tie rod ends are also different from the Thompson / Saginaw type? I want to buy new Tie rod ends I found Moog ES314RL will they fit my Olds ?
Thanks
Old Jun 5, 2025 | 05:11 AM
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The Thompson/Saginaw issue applies only to the center link, pitman arm, and idler arm on the 65-70 cars. The tie rod ends are the same for either. ES314RL is correct for the outers. It's the earlier full size cars (61-64) where the tie rod ends were different.
Old Jun 5, 2025 | 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
The Thompson/Saginaw issue applies only to the center link, pitman arm, and idler arm on the 65-70 cars. The tie rod ends are the same for either. ES314RL is correct for the outers. It's the earlier full size cars (61-64) where the tie rod ends were different.
Joe, thanks for your valuable information, you are a walking encyclopedia of Oldsmobile cars.

I ordered a Moog ES314RL and will replace it next week. I've never done it before, but it won't be anything complicated. I'll do the basic geometry in the garage.
Old Jun 5, 2025 | 05:53 AM
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I typically try to get a center-to-center measurement from the old tie rod assembly before replacement so I can get the new one close. Also, if one is bad, the other likely isn't far behind.
Old Jun 16, 2025 | 11:38 AM
  #13  
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I replaced tie rod ends with new MOOG ES314RL, I also replaced the new sleeves, treated the threads with copper paste and adjusted the toe-in, is it currently 5/16 inches okay, or should I set it to 3/16 inches? I don't know if the MOOG ball joints are already lubricated from the factory, or should I apply NLGI 2 type lubricant?
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