Rack/Pinion and newbie suspension questions
#1
Rack/Pinion and newbie suspension questions
I am mainly a motor and body man. I know basically NOTHING about suspension or steering aparatus. I apologize if I ask questions that have been answered before, I scanned thread titles and didn't find exactly what I was looking for.
Rack and pinion: Worth a conversion? What is the approximate cost and difficulty? I'm confident in my ability, once I do some research, but is it really worth the trouble?
Suspension: What basic things should I do to make the car handle a little less like a boat, and a little more like a car? Generalizations are fine, I can look up the details once I know what I'm aiming for.
This is my first ground-up build, I've just done motors and bodywork in the past. Thanks for being understanding with a newbie. =)
Rack and pinion: Worth a conversion? What is the approximate cost and difficulty? I'm confident in my ability, once I do some research, but is it really worth the trouble?
Suspension: What basic things should I do to make the car handle a little less like a boat, and a little more like a car? Generalizations are fine, I can look up the details once I know what I'm aiming for.
This is my first ground-up build, I've just done motors and bodywork in the past. Thanks for being understanding with a newbie. =)
#2
Rack and pinion conversions on a car that never had it will cause plenty of headaches. In most cases you will be pioneering the process.
You will need a rack of exactly the right length that will also line up with the steering column, and you will have to fabricate mountings for it as well. you will also need a power steering pump compatible to your chosen rack. When you have done that you might find little improvement in the cars handling.
The classic way to improve handling is replacing the rubber suspension bushes with polyeurethane ones, lowering the suspension with stiffer springs and shocks and fitting lower profile tires preferably with lightweight wheels to reduce unsprung weight.
There are plenty of sources available for improving handling but just like an engine you need to do the whole package, every component has an effect on the rest of the setup, quicker steering response would be wasted on a car with tired springs and shocks for example, just as putting a hot cam in a stock engine would not be much use.
I would recommend making the best of what you have unless you want to completely re-engineer the car, I don't want to be a killjoy, but I would urge caution unless you have plenty of resources at your disposal for what you have in mind.
Good luck!.
Roger.
You will need a rack of exactly the right length that will also line up with the steering column, and you will have to fabricate mountings for it as well. you will also need a power steering pump compatible to your chosen rack. When you have done that you might find little improvement in the cars handling.
The classic way to improve handling is replacing the rubber suspension bushes with polyeurethane ones, lowering the suspension with stiffer springs and shocks and fitting lower profile tires preferably with lightweight wheels to reduce unsprung weight.
There are plenty of sources available for improving handling but just like an engine you need to do the whole package, every component has an effect on the rest of the setup, quicker steering response would be wasted on a car with tired springs and shocks for example, just as putting a hot cam in a stock engine would not be much use.
I would recommend making the best of what you have unless you want to completely re-engineer the car, I don't want to be a killjoy, but I would urge caution unless you have plenty of resources at your disposal for what you have in mind.
Good luck!.
Roger.
#3
Thanks! That wasn't a killjoy at all. Like I stated, I don't really know anything about suspension. Just testing the waters. I know there are kits built for some of the more popular cars, like the tri-5 chebbys, but engineering an entire system is out of my budget and skill-level.
I'll get the car running and driving in a reliable manner, and then tackle the suspension upgrades all at the same time.
I'll get the car running and driving in a reliable manner, and then tackle the suspension upgrades all at the same time.
#4
forget about the rack and pinion. As already stated WAY too difficult for the possible gain.
look in to the Jeep Grand Cherokee steering gear swap. For around $100, you end up with a quicker steering.
Replace any worn front end parts, and add polyurethane bushings and end links to the sway bar in the front along with a fresh set of shocks. at that point you can decide if you need the springs and bigger sway bars. On a DD type car that might be plenty.
you don't need to break the bank to have a well performing car.
look in to the Jeep Grand Cherokee steering gear swap. For around $100, you end up with a quicker steering.
Replace any worn front end parts, and add polyurethane bushings and end links to the sway bar in the front along with a fresh set of shocks. at that point you can decide if you need the springs and bigger sway bars. On a DD type car that might be plenty.
you don't need to break the bank to have a well performing car.
#6
i just bought a complete steering linkage rebuild kit for my 65....$245 for centerlink, tie rod ends, adjusting sleeves, and idler arm. also, i paid $345 for a set of tubular upper & lower control arms with greasable ball joints and greasable bushings. both of these components should improve the handling and steering response over the old. my springs and shocks were replaced last year, so i'll just be re-using those. but this may point you in the right direction. that is short money for a complete front end rebuild with performance improvements. i will update once everything is installed, should be starting this week.
#8
Upper and lower control arms- $340 including shipping on eBay, the seller's ID is rodpartsdealer. Or, If you just search "68 cutlass front control arm" u will see more expensive sets, individual arms, and bushings come up. The set I got is buy it now $295 + 45 shipping. Almost identical to the big dollar hotchkis or whatever brands. The greasable bushings and ball joints were a plus also, some of the more expensive sets will give you polyurethane bushings, but greasable will give you just as good performance. I think your 68 would be the same application as mine anyway.
The steering linkage kit I bought is made by PST (Performance Suspension Technology) Performance, also on eBay, user ID pstbay. They have their own website as well, just google their name and u will see the site. I paid $245 free shipping for the whole set. Just search "68 cutlass steering linkage" and u will see it, very few results pop up, so u should see it almost immediately. Let me know if u can't find either item, right now I am using my iPhone which is kinda a pain, but I could give you specific direct links to the item listings.
Here are few photos of the actual items:
1156454b.jpg
e9fa4dac.jpg
f5f561f9.jpg
The steering linkage kit I bought is made by PST (Performance Suspension Technology) Performance, also on eBay, user ID pstbay. They have their own website as well, just google their name and u will see the site. I paid $245 free shipping for the whole set. Just search "68 cutlass steering linkage" and u will see it, very few results pop up, so u should see it almost immediately. Let me know if u can't find either item, right now I am using my iPhone which is kinda a pain, but I could give you specific direct links to the item listings.
Here are few photos of the actual items:
1156454b.jpg
e9fa4dac.jpg
f5f561f9.jpg
#9
Man, that is snazzy looking. I've got a jar on my kitchen table with 300 bucks in it, and a guy who owes me another 300 bucks. I'm probably going to put that all together and get these parts. Thanks a ton!
#10
I have built and driven cars with rack and pinion and also with the new design steering boxes (basically the jeep box). the new style steering box with good front end components will drive as well as the rack for a lot less money plus the turning radius with the box is far better than the rack. about the only way you would tell a difference is if you are a serious road racer or autocrosser.
#11
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