miked

I finally installied the Jeep Cherokee steering box in my 67. It had 'PD' stamped on end and degree wheel says it is around 12.7 ratio. I used Lee adapters and the 31011 rag joint (Oreillys) and so far only hang up was the bolt spacing on the rag joint. There seemed to be just a smidge difference even tho I measured as close as possible and after I bolted box up I had to drill out one hole so bolt would go thru. I don't recall reading anything about this but has anyone else found this? My stock lines fit fine and so far no gravity leaking. I still need to bleed out and test drive.
Question 1-I'm starting out with stock pump. I have read some say the pump needs upgrading. Any opinions or info?
Question 2- Anyone know if correct w30 pressure hose is available?
Thanks for any input!

MDchanic

The original fittings had one large and one small bolt, so that it could only be fitted one way. Now you've made it "universal."

I would try it with the stock pump and see if you like the feel.
If you feel that it's underboosted, you can always change the pressure valve in the back of the pump for a newer one.

- Eric

miked

Thanks Eric, sounds like a plan.

4speed455

When I did my swap I the bought the Lares 200 coupler from advanced auto for $20. I took the hardware from my cutlass/442 steering coupler which include two differnt size bolts and a spacer for the smaller bolt and installed it in my new coupler putting the spacer in the corresponding hole. The different sized bolts are so it can only go together one way. By drilling out the steering shaft and using the same size bolts it's possible to install and have your steering wheel clocked 180% off.
When I did my research most people said pre 70 pumps needed the newer pressure valve. If you get the pressure valve from a newer pump it should have the o-ring fitting. That way you can buy newer style hoses with the correct threads and therefore you won't need Lee's adapters. I had brand new hoses so I went the cheaper easier route with the adapters also. I just keep thinking SAE threads on the hose and metric threads on the box has got to be a weak link. Especially on the pressure side.

MDchanic

Two years and counting with mine, and no leaks yet.

- Eric

4speed455

To be honest I read lots of success stories and couldn't find an actual person who had a leak themselves. That why I went ahead and used them. Mine hasn't had much drive time on it yet but no leaks yet.

miked

Thanks guys for the input. I too had new hoses so that was a big item in my decision to go with the adapters. I plan to do some drive time this weekend. Hopefully I won't feel the need to change the pressure valve. Is the reason for this to make it "lighter" steering? I drive a Honda daily so I'm use to a heavy feel. Can't wait to try it as my old box was completely worn out, no pitman adjustment left and a hard spot off center. Thanks again for the help.
One other question....will a smaller steering wheel help/hurt? I have an old Vega GT wheel with fat rim that I like.

MDchanic

A smaller wheel will make the steering feel "quicker," but will make the car look crappy.

- Eric

miked

Agreed I think I'll leave the Vega wheel hangin' on the wall...

MDchanic

'Bout all that's left of the Vega anyway, eh?

- Eric

miked

You got that right! Actually I had pretty good luck with them (2) once I pulled the 4 and put in a Buick V6. Last one had auto and p/s and was a nice driving car, just that the body would sorta disappear from around you as you went down the road (ha).

miked

OK, finally got to hit the road and so far am very happy with the conversion. It's actually a fun car to drive now. Not perfect, still some slight wander on center but maybe a good alignment can fix that (more pos. caster maybe?). Don't know why but now the pump whines, maybe it was before and I just didn't pay attention to it. I did not run it dry...I let it gravity bleed for 3 days, topping it off every night. When I fired it up there were very few bubbles and needed just a small amount to top off. Thanks again for all the input!

MDchanic

It may whine for a few days, it's usually caused by some residual foaming, but it will eventually spit out that little bit of air and be quiet.

- Eric

miked

Thanks for some good info Eric. That makes sense. I'll give it a few more miles before I worry about it. I appreciate it!

MDchanic

You're welcome.

Let us know how it goes.

- Eric

RAMBOW

Did you turn the wheel lock to lock a bunch of times with the engine off?

If its whining with mild turning its still got air in it, which has turns to foam once you start it.
Let it sit overnight to let the foam die down, then jack up the front of the car and turn the wheel lock to lock 20-30 times and then check the level. The Whining should go away.