oldzy

Anyone use these? Just wondering how good they being less beefy at the contact points compared to Hotchkis and Global West.

I have both the Hotchkis (1402) and Global West (TS-82) rear control arms, and went to install them earlier. It is not the arm that is the issue, but rather the bolts that are included. They do not go through the holes in the frame easily. I know they are supposed to be tight and all, but the 'raised' flat part starts immediately after the threads, which means I would have to basically hammer them in. However, the stock GM style control arm bolts go in fine and snug, and they only have that 'raised' part near the head of the bolt for that final snug fit.

So, I was considering trying the Edelbrock's instead as I could prob use the stock style bolts. Of course, I could always try to find other bolts. Hotchkis has long *** ones with coarse threads and huge nuts (oh my), and GW has shorter ones with fine threads and smaller nuts (oh my).

oldzy

No one has these?

oldzy

...

oldzy

I am having probs with even the Edelbrocks (or perhaps not).

For starters, the Global West braces do not fit (can't line up the bolts and can't bang in, even with a hammer).

So... I tried the Edelbrock braces. There are even bigger gaps between the frame and braces. Do I just ignore it, and torque to specs? Obviously either the braces are going to bend once torqued, or the frame mounts, whichever is weaker.

Also... the aftermarket bolts go in easy now... powdercoating is worn off the holes. So that part is ok.

compedgemarine

picture would help. I have not used the Edelbrock but are the global west and the hotchkis not adjustable? the last set I put in were from Detroit Speed and are adjustable. you have to loosen everything to get the bolts in then tension them.

oldzy

No pics yet.

In re to the Global West's, yes they are adjustable, but it makes no difference. Since the holes in the braces are so tight with little wiggle room when the bolt goes through... I can't even get any of the bolts to go through... not even with a hammer. One side is better than the other, but still no go for both sides.

The Edelbrock's... they don't press flush against the frame (not sure if they are supposed to or not). They fit over the bolts fine though b/c of the bolt hole slots in the braces.

ziff396

I just used the factory braces originally installed on 4 speed cars. Bolted right in place. They work just fine on the street. No hop. I also am using factory lowers (boxed) with poly on both ends. I originally wanted a whole matched setup like UMI, Edelbrock, etc offer, but $ won.

oldzy

Below is a pic of the Edelbrock braces. I have the top part flush to the frame, and you can see the 1/4" or so gap in the pic on the bottom part of the brace. This gap is about the same for both sides. Should I just tighten everything, and it will squeeze it together once torqued?

compedgemarine

given that the bars flange is much thicker than the frame metal it is very possible that the frame will bend in and bind the swingarm. the only reason that they dont come out parrallel is that the arms are made wrong or something about the frame is out of wack.

oldzy

ok, here is what happened. I tightened everything down (not torqued) and the gap pretty much disappeared. Yes, the lower control arm was much tighter, so obviously that mounting part of the frame bent/flexed inwards.

However, I did the exact same w/o the braces installed, and the lower control arm was just as tight as before. I could still move it of course, but it seemed to be the exact same tightness as with the braces installed.

So hopefully all is well, and I will prob just use the Edelbrocks for now. Just not sure why they say to use a washer and lock washer on the inside of the frame rails, and a washer on the nut side. At least that is how I read it.

oldzy

Any comments on the lock washer placement in the lower rear arm? Edelbrock says to put it on the bolt head side 'inside' of the frame rail with a washer. Seems strange, as I have always put on the nut side. My original lower rear arms have a hex flange head control arm bolt, and are a touch longer than the upper ones.

compedgemarine

if I had to guess (and that is all it is) they want the lock washer on the bolt head to help lock the bolt from being able to twist with the movement of the swing arm. from the look of the nut in your pic that is a swedge lock nut. if it is then it does not need a lockwasher as the nut is the lock.

Run to Rund

You have assembled them correctly, but I would bend them in a vise until they fit right, or use the factory braces (or reproductions of them). I don't use lockwashers as they can spread and fail. Be sure to use grade 8 bolts.