BerBer5985

I am about to do my SC&C suspension install this weekend hopefully if the hellwig sway bars come in this week and I bought the complete set up from front to rear, including the currie upper and lower currectrac rear arms, SPC springs all around, and bilsteins. With the adjustable uppers, what is the ideal set up for a 68 cutlass? There's a fair amount of info on the front set up for alignment and what not, but what about the rear? Also, why I'm on the subject, how would you adjust the front suspension enough to be able to drive it to shop to have it aligned?

gearheads78

Rear is easy just center the rearend with the uppers and then set your pinion after its centered.

The front is a little harder. First make absolutly sure your Howe ball joints seat properly in the spindles. On mine the shoulder bottomed out on the spindle face before the taper was seated. I have also talked with others that ran into the same issue. My solution was a small taper cut about 1/16" to make sure the shoulder on the balljoint had enough clearance to seat correctly.

Getting the alignment close enough to drive is going to be tough. I got mine together and trailerd to work to align. It took me with the help of an experienced front end guy a good 30 min just to figure out what changes did what to get closer to the specs I was after. After that it was about 2 hours adjust check adjust check ect ect to end up with the final specs.

The Stickman

I would love to see a full build up thread on this as I would love to do something similar But Iam looking at SppedTech front end. I am already running Billet Metco rear LCA's. BTW if you have AAA just call and have them tow it. I have AAA Plus and they will tow me anywhere within 100 mile free. But if you have them tow it to your house after a breakdown they will not then tow it to a shop.

BerBer5985

I'll do my best to get as many pics aspossible and do a write up if I can . I'll try!

gearheads78

One more thing about the Currie Track rear arms you want to look at. You can also go to my build thread to see what I am talking about.

I am running a 72 8.5" rear may or may not have the same issue with other rears. On the drivers side the control arm hits the axle housing at the ring rear bulge. I had to trim about 1/4" from the radius of the radius of the end of the control arm to get it to clear.

gearheads78

added pics of the spindle before modification and the rear control arm after it was trimmed

BerBer5985

what did you make this taper cut on and where exactly? Did you just make the hole bigger on the spindle? Also, how do you know what the pinion angle is? What is the ideal pinion angle to be at?

gearheads78

Right where the shoulder hits as you can see in the pic I posted. Just the top edge of the taper opening. I used a large countersink bit but you could use a die grinder or anthing else you have. Just be carefull. It only needed about .060" ridge cut on the edge.

You may not even have to do it. To check sticck the ball joint on the hole and give it a good tap with a rubber mallet. It is sticks in the taper you are fine. If its still loose and falls right out the above fix will probably be required.

The did not worry as much about pinion angle as I did driveshaft phase since my car it so low. I got my DS in phase and ended up around 1.5 down pinion angle. Seems to be working OK. To check it you need an angle meter and the car needs to be sitting at ride height. A 4 post drive on lift makes it real easy. I did mine on the floor but there was no body on the car.

BerBer5985

We are talking tapering the hole for the front spindles here right? The only pic I see is for the rears where you had to trim to get the currie rear to clear the axle housing? Maybe I'm confused. I might just call you when I do it if I need help. I think you pMed me your phone number before. Is that ok?

gearheads78

I added another pic but it must not be working. I can't see pics so i will have to fix it tonight. You are welcome to call. After 6:00 Central time is best.

gearheads78

the picture I was trying to show

BerBer5985

What method did you use to get the original springs out?

gearheads78

Cable wraped over the frame hooked to a floor jack base. Poor mans spring compressor.

BerBer5985

Really? How does that work exactly? I'm trying to picture what youre explaining.

gearheads78

The cable ,chain, or strap keeps the frame from jacking up because its connected to the floor via the jack. Then the jack will only move the suspension control arm up compressing the spring.

Jamesbo

IMHO

This is a good way to get killed.

Richard knows more than the adverage guy and I'm sure he can do it safely.[Actually he's known around here as MacGwver]

But I would use spring compressors.

Check out Harbor Freight for a cheap set.

gearheads78

There... fixed it for you. I assure you a cheap spring compressor will kill you long before my method will. But hey if i'm wrong more business for you.

Jamesbo

Richard,

Maybe I phrased it wrong. I'm sure you know what you're doing.

Yes, I would buy as good a spring compressor as I could.

It's like the movie ends says, "These driving stunts were done by trained professional stunt drivers, Please don't attempt any of thes manuvers on your own."