Complete noob wanting to lower
#1
Complete noob wanting to lower
I have an 85' Olds Custom Cruiser. I'm wanting to lower it. I've never tackled anything like this and needing help. Anybody have suggestions on what I should get or where to look? I'd prefer to bag it and go as low as possible without any major fabrication. Also not wanting to dump a bunch of money into it. Any help and guidance is appreciated.
#2
I have an 85' Olds Custom Cruiser. I'm wanting to lower it. I've never tackled anything like this and needing help. Anybody have suggestions on what I should get or where to look? I'd prefer to bag it and go as low as possible without any major fabrication. Also not wanting to dump a bunch of money into it. Any help and guidance is appreciated.
Your wagon uses the same chassis and suspension as the 1977-1996 Caprice. Any lowering springs or air bag kits that fit those cars will fit yours. Good luck.
#3
Welcome to the group... What's your definition of a "bunch of money"??? First and foremost, you should set a budget for what you are willing to invest and then shop around for the best kits available requiring minimum major fabrication issues...
#4
I'd like to stay as close to a grand possible.
#6
#7
#8
Welcome to the site. You probably can lower it just with different springs and shocks within your budget. You need to contact the airide suspension people to see what you need and how much it will cost. You can possibly do this for a little more than you set if you perform the work yourself.
#9
Welcome to the site. Have you considered just restoring the suspension with stock parts? You could probably get stock suspension parts AND a set of aftermarket wheels for around $1000. Aftermarket rims can definitely make a car look cool!
#10
If you decide to go with springs, it will cost you about $250-350 plus a front end alignment. You can get springs from JEGS and Summit Racing, as well as a number of other sources. As stated above, any kit for 77 to 96 B-body will fit, and work. The drop may be a little more or less depending on the manufacturer. You can also get shims to put under the front spring, if you have a little too much drop with the ones you buy.
The front springs just go in and replace the original ones. Measure the fender opening to top of the wheel before and after installing the springs. The difference is your drop, and takes the tire inflation/size out of the equation. To compensate for the negative camber, remove .030 in (approx. 1/32 of an inch) of shims for each 1/2 inch of measured drop. You should check your toe-in, but that should not change a noticeable amount, because the tierod end pivots on the same plane as the lower ball joint. You can also cut the wedge shaped part of the bump stop off, to give you a little more suspension travel. If you need shocks, ball joints or tierod ends, that will add to your costs, but it is better to be safe than sorry, and have something break. I would at least change the shocks while you have the front end apart. You can get bolt on, ready to use fully loaded arms for the front from Rock Auto, if you want to replace the bushings and ball joints at once, although it would need a complete front end alignment to make it right. With the age of your car I would suggest the complete replacement. It is cheaper than the cost of the individual parts and labor to install them. The actual installation is a write-up itself to cover the "easy way" quirks.
The rears will also drop right in, but you will have a problem with them falling out when you jack the car to change tires. If you weld a 3 inch section of exhaust pipe to the top spring perch, it will keep the top of the spring aligned. I would suggest that you tiewrap the spring to the lower perch to keep it from moving as well. You only need to remove the shocks from the lower mounts, and jack the car up to swap the springs, but if you do not weld the tubes on the top, the drop springs will fall out as previously mentioned.
You can get 2-3 inch drop this way. For everyday driving 3 inches is about maximum for dropping it. You can also use drop length shocks, but the rears may cause the tire to be difficult to get off if it does not clear the bodywork.
I have heard the springs from a Crown Vic, or Grand Marquis donor will work in the rear if you want to go the cheap route, and buy just front drop springs. I pulled a pair of them, and they look like they will work, but have not installed them at this point. If you decide to go the cheap route, I would install them, and check the ride height before buying front springs. It is nice to have the car ride with the stance you desire.
Air ride is another issue, especially on the front. Since the shock goes through the spring, there is no easy way to replace the spring with an airbag. There is also a limited amount of space in the frame spring pocket. This is where the fabrication is needed. You may end up with no front shocks as well. There will be one height range that the alignment will be good, and all others will have camber issues.
The front springs just go in and replace the original ones. Measure the fender opening to top of the wheel before and after installing the springs. The difference is your drop, and takes the tire inflation/size out of the equation. To compensate for the negative camber, remove .030 in (approx. 1/32 of an inch) of shims for each 1/2 inch of measured drop. You should check your toe-in, but that should not change a noticeable amount, because the tierod end pivots on the same plane as the lower ball joint. You can also cut the wedge shaped part of the bump stop off, to give you a little more suspension travel. If you need shocks, ball joints or tierod ends, that will add to your costs, but it is better to be safe than sorry, and have something break. I would at least change the shocks while you have the front end apart. You can get bolt on, ready to use fully loaded arms for the front from Rock Auto, if you want to replace the bushings and ball joints at once, although it would need a complete front end alignment to make it right. With the age of your car I would suggest the complete replacement. It is cheaper than the cost of the individual parts and labor to install them. The actual installation is a write-up itself to cover the "easy way" quirks.
The rears will also drop right in, but you will have a problem with them falling out when you jack the car to change tires. If you weld a 3 inch section of exhaust pipe to the top spring perch, it will keep the top of the spring aligned. I would suggest that you tiewrap the spring to the lower perch to keep it from moving as well. You only need to remove the shocks from the lower mounts, and jack the car up to swap the springs, but if you do not weld the tubes on the top, the drop springs will fall out as previously mentioned.
You can get 2-3 inch drop this way. For everyday driving 3 inches is about maximum for dropping it. You can also use drop length shocks, but the rears may cause the tire to be difficult to get off if it does not clear the bodywork.
I have heard the springs from a Crown Vic, or Grand Marquis donor will work in the rear if you want to go the cheap route, and buy just front drop springs. I pulled a pair of them, and they look like they will work, but have not installed them at this point. If you decide to go the cheap route, I would install them, and check the ride height before buying front springs. It is nice to have the car ride with the stance you desire.
Air ride is another issue, especially on the front. Since the shock goes through the spring, there is no easy way to replace the spring with an airbag. There is also a limited amount of space in the frame spring pocket. This is where the fabrication is needed. You may end up with no front shocks as well. There will be one height range that the alignment will be good, and all others will have camber issues.
#11
I appreciate everyone's input, thanks. The vehicle definitely won't be a daily driver, just a project. I traded an old Durango that was on its last leg. Bought it for $500 and drove it 4 years. Didn't need it and seen the wagon for sale. I'd still like to bag it at some point. I'll just have to do a lots of research and up my budget. Start buying what I need piece by piece.
Thought I more photos, must've been in my last phone.
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March 12th, 2010 07:54 PM